Cathy Corison's wines at Arlequin
Arlequin SF
Tasted Thursday, May 28, 2015 by RajivAyyangar with 313 views
Introduction
https://www.evernote.com/l/ABbyLH0xuJlGmbQUzOQBwZz8ZHPeKmj7JNQ
I like Cathy Corison's wines on two levels: Aesthetically I love the savory character with ripe fruit and excellent secondary development, along with moderate alcohol and elevated acid. Intellectually I love the resemblance to the ’95 York Creek (which Cathy also made). Stylistically there are many common elements that form an archetype of beautiful, intentional winemaking:
1) Well-ripened, concentrated fruit flavors (sometimes slightly underripe, like in 2011, and sometimes slightly overripe for me - 2010, 2006).
2) Moderate alcohol and elevated acid, which make the wines step lightly and vibrantly on the palate.
3) Subtle undertones of spice and animal fur from intentional Brettanomyces (“All my wines have a bit of Brett” - she controls the level with SO2 and decades of experience).
4) Oak is moderate (50% new French), registering more clearly in the younger wines as freshly-sanded wood. In the older wines (2005, 2004, 2001), it registers as integrated cedar/graphite.
5) Moderate, plush tannins.
As a side note, Cathy stressed the importance of blind tasting to hone one's palate. She practices blind tasting frequently - almost every night at home, and in a tasting group of winemakers for the last few decades(!)
Flight 1 - Corison Cabernet (6 Notes)
Flight 2 - A few Burgundies (2 Notes)
As a surprise addendum, Cathy shared a couple Burgundies from Arlequin (she likes to get a Burgundy when stopping by).
2011 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Clear, bright, medium ruby with moderate plus concentration, and no rim variation. No gas or sediment.
Moderate intensity nose, clean, with tones of savory-sweet ripe stewed bell peppers (pyrazines). Some integrated cedar and bright red cherry. Overall character of the nose is savory.
In the mouth, classic Corison:
Medium body, moderate alcohol [13.7%].
Red cherry, a tiny bit of cassis character, cedar. For me, a bit of well-integrated oak, partly new - it registers as smooth, fine-grained, freshly-sanded wood. [50% new, French oak] Elevated acidity. Tannins are a solid moderate. Long finish
This was a difficult year to ripen cabernet - many vineyards were afflicted with Aspergillus mold.
I really like this.
Score: Around 9.
$85
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2010 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
dark ruby, concentrated color.
Nose of slightly overripe red cherry liqueur and a bit of blackcurrant character. Secondaries of faint animal spice (brettanomyces), deep glossy liquorice / anise, and cedar tones.
In the mouth, classic Corison:
Medium body, medium alcohol [13.6%], excellent midpalate aromatics with a hint of Brett and well-contained tones of fresh wood (smells like smooth, fine-grained freshly-sanded wood to me) [French oak, 50% new]. Elevated acid and plush moderate-intensity tannins. Long finish
Score: Around 9.
$85
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2006 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark ruby in the glass. On the nose, overripe cherry with faint brett spice.
In the mouth, classic Corison:
Medium body, medium alcohol [also 13.6%], excellent midpalate aromatics with a hint of Brett and well-contained tones of fresh wood (smells like smooth, fine-grained freshly-sanded wood to me) [French oak, 50% new]. Balanced acid (moderate - not as elevated as the others) and plush moderate-intensity tannins. Long finish.
A cool year - they picked a month later than usual.
Score: Between 8.5 and 9.
$100
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2005 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Medium red, moderate plus concentration. The nose shows signs of age: Some dark fruits, but mostly sweet stewed tamales, hint of savory stewed ripe bell pepper character. Sweet tobacco, slightly oxidative in nature.
In the mouth, classic Corison:
Medium body, medium alcohol [also 13.6%], excellent savory sweet-tobacco and cedar midpalate aromatics with a hint of Brett and some dusty wood spice (smells like faint fine-grained freshly-sanded wood to me) [French oak, 50% new]. Elevated acid and plush moderate-intensity tannins. Reminiscent of a the ’95 York Creek, but softer, plusher, slightly more youthful, and less pastiche - this is elegant and developing beautifully. Long finish.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5
$125
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2004 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
A tough year - half the crop of ’05. Light acetaldehyde on the nose. Mushroom tones. Slightly stewed fruit with faint sweet stewed bellpeppers.
On the palate, classic Corison:
Medium body, medium alcohol [also 13.6%], excellent midpalate aromatics with sweet tobacco tertiary character, a hint of Brett spice, and light tones fresh wood (smells like smooth, fine-grained freshly-sanded wood to me) [French oak, 50% new]. Elevated acid and plush moderate-intensity tannins. Long finish.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5
$125
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2001 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Slightly dull medium-red in the glass, moderate plus concentration. Slight bricking at the rim.
On the nose, glossy-black sweet savory tobacco secondaries. Faint brett, faint stewed pyrazine, faint menthol, faint mushroom. Beautiful mature cabernet nose.
On the palate, classic Corison:
Medium body, medium alcohol [13.5%], excellent midpalate of sweet cedar and sweet tobacco. Elevated acid and still-grippy moderate tannins. Long finish.
Score: Between 9 and 9.5
$150
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