Mature Rioja tasting at The Sampler

• 2009 Bodega Abel Mendoza Viura Rioja Blanco 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Rounding out to a creamy fullness. Less bright and zippy than previously and heading towards being a good food wine. ***

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• 1980 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Slightly dusty mature Rioja nose. Too warm. Lacks the usual orange peel and freshness. A touch of tomato too with a slightly vegetal edge. A little flat and flabby. If representative, not a great Tondo. Probably the best wine of the flight, but disappointing for what it is/could have been. *** 87

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• 1978 Bodegas Palacio Rioja Glorioso Gran Reserva 87 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Quite mellow and a little mute on the nose. A touch fresher and with surprising mid-palate freshness. Holds well and shows a bit of bite. ***

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• 1970 Solar de Samaniego Rioja Gran Reserva 87 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  More classic mature Rioja nose. Fireside, leather and a touch of caramel. A little tighter and with a bit more acidity on the finish. A little thin I parts perhaps, not quite enough to cover it, but holds well with air, the Graciano giving a bit of florality and bite in the palate. Not bad considering. A little flat and one dimensional, but this feels less apparent with air. ***

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• 1964 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva 91 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Initially very fragrant with a velvety plushness, violets and a whiff of mustiness that comes and goes. Slightly double edged on the palate too. A plushness but also a slightly musy leanness. Maybe lacks a bit of focus but this is showing well with reasonably plush fruit and a fresher acidity. ****

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• 1964 La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva 904 91 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Far more precise and focused on the nose. Lovely definition. Coffee, fireside, old leather. Fresh and focused. A slight hint of earthy mustiness on the finish with a slightly woody element, but so minor as to not be an issue. Holds well. Lovely poise. ****

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• 1959 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Reserva Especial 94 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Gorgeous nose. Proper Rioja. Plush, rounded and dense. Rich even. Complete and vibrant. Lovely. ****1/2

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• 1959 Federico Paternina Rioja Conde de los Andes Gran Reserva 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  A little less round and expressive. Leaner with good acidity though the finish. Underwhelming though and a pale shadow of the (slightly corked) bottle last Spanish WIMPS. ***

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• 1955 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 93 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Lovely plush nose. A real density and depth of fruit. Something slightly woody too, as per the 904, but again this comes and goes.surprisingly dense. A touch of coffee. Increasing complexity with air. ****

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• 1952 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva 92 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Again, nicely dense and vibrant. Fresh with good mid palate weight and a positive finish. This is right up there initially, though with air it fades slightly and whilst not losing its fruit and fabric, it becomes a little flatter and less bright. Very good though and probably the 'value' pick of the evening. ****

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• 2009 Bodega Classica Rioja Hacienda López de Haro Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  A lot fuller and brighter than the 05 with a touch of pepper and spice, vibrant. Needs a little time to calm and mellow. **1/2

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• 2013 Bodegas y Vinedos Artuke Rioja Pies Negros 86 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Quite zingy. Lots of raspberry on the nose, blended with crème de mûre. Bright acidity. Lots of bite and character. Spiky almost. ***

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Unfortunate that this turned out to be such a warm and muggy evening as the wines all lacked a bit of focus / precision as a result of the warmth. An atypical (I hope) Tondo, and an on-form CVNE. Disappointing Conde and some Monte real punching above its weight. An affirming showing from the two LRAs.