Premier Cru Verticals--Roumier Morey St. Denis Bussière and Courcel Pommard Fremiers

• 2009 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Ruby. Deep aromas of ripe cherry and earth. Medium weight, strong core of fruit and excellent acidity. Delicious and more than approachable now.

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• 2008 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Pale center, browning rim. Aromatic wintergreen. Light, spicy, high acidity, and fading reddish fruit. Very dry, earthy finish. One of those '08's that is just too meager and short on fruit.

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• 2007 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Light ruby. Black fruit and soil with some cool green elements on the nose. Lovely medium weight and feel. Moderate soil and low tannins on the finish. Complex, elegant, and a total delight that still seems to be on the ascent. The 2007 Roumiers I've tried have been entirely hors classe for the vintage.

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• 2006 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Very light core with browning at the edge. Perfumed brown spices. Much weightier than the '07. Sappy ripe black fruit, soil, and fennel with lower acidity. Tannic, earth filled finish. Needs more time despite its mature appearance. Very Morey yet not blockish or chunky in the least.

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• 2011 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Very light red with a watery edge. Aggressive stemmy aromas. Weighty and sappy. Serious, deep black fruit. Austere, tannic finish. This reminds me of Corton. Pretty savage and rough going at the moment, but the material is impressive.

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• 2010 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Clear light ruby color. Wet earth on the nose. Medium weight. Just perfectly poised, balanced, and harmonious-there are no jarring edges as with the 2011. Subtle sweetness of fruit and a good dose of soil. Long, tannic finish. This is a beauty and may be one of the best young Pommards I have ever tasted.

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• 2009 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Light/medium core with fading. A curious mix of candied fruit and greenness. Riper red fruit with a roasted quality, good acidity. Sappy but a harsher finish and much less equilibrium than the amazing 2010. Very good though.

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• 2008 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Extremely pale with marked browning. Herbal fragrance. Very light body yet manages to have a nice feel with some flesh. Spicy, high but not rough acidity. This is a prototypical wine of the soil yet has enough fruit underneath (in contrast to the 2008 Roumier).

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So interesting to taste these more rough and tumble communes of the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune from 2 highly regarded producers. As an avowed Pommard skeptic, several of the Courcel wines really impressed nonetheless.