Domain Tasting-2014 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis

• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Petit Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

  Fragrant iodine and saline. Light but powerfully stony with lots of soil. Not at all about fruit. Really excellent at this level.

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• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Lime and more floral than the Petit Chablis. More rounded than that wine but still hardly rich. Tremendous, mouth watering acidity and minerality with a lingering dry finish. Outstanding village wine.

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• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Very iodine and herb nose. Very dry classic puckery lemon, but this too is soil-driven. Great acidity, more body and texture than the Chablis, but this is essentially classic and lean, a prototypical wine to pair with oysters, at least while it's young.

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• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Green herbs, citrus, and yellow plum. Initially rounder entry than other wines to this point, but still pared down compared to riper versions of Vaillons. Interesting spice and lemon flavors, great balance of fruit and sea elements, long mineral finish. Terrific and unusually delicate while retaining grip.

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• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Immediately riper, richer aromatics than the rest of the range. Orange and passionfruit. Broader and more textural than the other Premier Crus, some soil and limestone. Perhaps less concentration than the others and not as exciting, vibrating finish. In this high acid context, this was positively flabby, but only in relative terms of course.

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• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Flowers and lime. Beautiful medium weight, great poise between fruit and acidity, very intense, long soil-filled finish. This is classic and a much different animal than the preceding wine in its focus and lean structure.

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• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Multidimensional nose of iodine, broth, and green flowers. Not bigger than the Forest, but lower pitched citrus and a profound, endless dry finish infused with green flavors and stones. No sweetness here. A very great Chablis.

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• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Stony aromatics. Biggest, richest wine of the range. More dense and powerful than the Preuses although maybe a tad less acidity. Some orange peel and green herb flavors but mostly about the soil and stone. Also classic and outstanding, but today I preferred the nuance and fineness of the Preuses to the raw power of this wine. Please let me buy some of both, though!

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I adored this range-lean, classic, and crackling with acidity and nerve. Compared to other post-2000 vintages, maybe they are most reminiscent of the 2004's.