Harwood Fest 2016

Alex Jagger rounded up eight of us for his visit to London and all brought a bottle or two to go with the Harwood meaty menu. Nearly everything showed superbly. As usual I was squiffy by the half-way point and my recollections below get hazier as the night went on. SimonG will doubtless post some reliable notes in due course.

• 2001 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Sweet, tangy, real drive and power, delicious and impressive

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• 1985 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Oenotheque Champagne Charlie Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Detailed toasty nose, fat and buttery on the palate, nice tang, the fizz fading but this is still alive - best showing yet

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• 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru

  From magnum. All the things I like in a white burg - some toasty oak, some citrus, good acid - excellent

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• 1946 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Intriguing and enticing old wine nose, sharp, dry, some toast here too - excellent

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• 2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Bright, red fruited, very attractive young fruity pinot, fuller and less ethereal than I expect from Rousseau

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• 1997 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Worrying signs of oxidation here - I've had this pong on too many Lafarge Chenes

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• 1983 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Champimonts

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Strikingly youthful for an 83, very fresh, cherry fruited and I love its cool stillness

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• 1982 Federico Paternina Rioja Rogelio Taberna

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  I vaguely recall enjoying it but right now have no recollection of what it was like

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• 1973 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  This was strikingly different from anything else here tonight - exotic, rich and sauce-like, lovely

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• 1988 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru La Grande Rue

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Lean, fresh, a bit enigmatic, I liked it, but was getting a bit befuddled at this point

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• 1985 Guy de Barjac Cornas

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  All the vigour and wildness I want from Cornas, but at the same time smooth and rich in the mouth - this was sensational

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• 1990 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Straight after Barjac, this seemed too refined, with vanilla tones, but actually, there's fantastic depth and bite here too - big but not brutal

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• 1983 Delas Frères Cornas Chante-Perdrix

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Another wine hiding its age - fresh, blackberry fruit, vigorous, lovely

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• 1920 Cossart Gordon & Co. Madeira Bual

  Portugal, Madeira

  Just amazing - worth the headache

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