Chez Gilberto
Tasted Saturday, December 10, 2016 by paul clark with 313 views
Six wines consumed blind. Wines were opened at noon and simply re-corked. Tasting commenced at 18h00. First without food in flights of 2 wines blind and then with food and the identity of the wines revealed.
Rousseau came out on top for all of the participants. Fourrier's CSJ was more one dimensional, four square and driven by the house style at the outset. By the end of the night the Rousseau was showing the same whereas the Fourrier had gained in complexit, breadth and interest.
Rousseau's Charmes did what it said on the label, it charmed everyone. But it wasn't able to distract anyone enough to prevent any of the participants from voting for the CSJ as wine of the flight. The Charmes brought a lot of interesting complexity whereas the CSJ was concentrated on delivering pure fruit.
A flight underscored by juxtaposition. Scale and size of the Dujac was worthy of a GC. Clair's CSJ was a reference wine for excellent PN.
Picked up on an auction sight for a song this wine was a pleasant reminder that very few of the wines from the region are at risk of being consumed "too late".
All of the Clos Saint Jacques shared a common tannin structure; each were the more firm, rigid and structured of each pair. Rousseau's Villages stood out for being able to keep up with the company in terms of complexity and structure. Dujac's Combottes was a significant deviation from the theme both geographically as well as characteristically.
A 1966 Lafarge Volnay was thrown in for good measure and it revealed the stalwart nature of the domaine, the village and pinot noir in general.
2013 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Reduction obscures the wine for the first 10 minutes but it blows off and reveals a slightly spicy, slightly oaky wine which is very floral red fruit. Cardamon and peonies mix with a subtle note of stems in a wine which is relatively approachable with a well defined but pleasantly agreeable structure.
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2013 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Cool, compact red fruit with a tight, precise structure. A subtly sauvage, animal note. The wine opens after a few hours and gains in intensity of the red fruit. Fourrier's house signature stands out in the purity, the elegance and the directness of this wine.
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