Gredos (Madrid) Visit 1: Marañones

On our recent vacation to Spain, we took one day to visit wine country. At the suggestion of the Wine Advocate's Luis Gutiérrez, we visited the Gredos area which is just west of Spain. For political reasons, this comes under the Madrid D.O. It is a relatively new area for quality wine making although there are some very old vineyards there. The main grapes are Grenache for reds and Albillo Reale for whites. The vineyards are elevated with sandy and granite soils. The vines are trained using the goblet method to protect them from the sun. The winemaker Fernando Garcia was unavailable but he had his second hand Pep give us a tour of the winery. We then went up to the vineyards and tasted the wines up there. We tasted under some huge boulders left by the last glacier. Pep preferred to do the reds first as the acid in the whites was stronger.

It is frankly rare for me to find a new wine region these days. Gredos was one I had never heard of and was very impressed with. The vineyards were gorgeous. High altitude. Crazy soil. It is one that will be heard a lot from over the next decade or more.

• 2015 Bodega Maranones Vinos de Madrid 30,000 Maravedíes 91 Points

  Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid

  So much better than what I presume a less than well stored bottle the night before. Noticeably fresher and less raisined. Light ruby in color. The nose has nice cherries with a mineral and saline note to it. Very clean with slight tannins on the palate. The cherries, minerals and slight saline come thru. Nice acidity if not pronounced. Pep said they struggle with trying to get enough acidity, but for me, given the style and grapes used, it was just fine. This is their entry level wine and I bought a bottle for under 20 Euros. Great value.

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• 2014 Bodega Maranones Vinos de Madrid Maranones 93 Points

  Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid

  This is 100% Grenache and a step up. It is very tight right now and very focused. Cherries on the nose with minerals and a slight chalky note. A bit of a Gin scent too if that makes sense. On the palate, light tannins. Cherries. Very pure. A mineral/chalk streak as well. It drinks like a cooler climate Grenache. No heat, the alcohol is mid 14's. I think this will need some time to fully develop but great today.

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• 2014 Bodega Maranones Vinos de Madrid Peña Caballera 94 Points

  Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid

  This is very tight. Huge potential but either decant or better yet cellar I think. Pep was unsure how well this would cellar as there is little track record, but I think it will cellar very well. I believe this is a single vineyard from 80 year old vines. Ruby in color. The nose is cherries, and minerals with an earthy funk not present in the other wines. I do not think it brett or anything like that. Probably the terroir. Very tight on the palate as it unwinds in the glass. Cherries for sure, but this whole range is more about minerality than fruit. Long finish.

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• 2016 Bodega Maranones Vinos de Madrid Picarana 92 Points

  Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid

  This is a white from the Albillo Reale grape which is an indigenous grape to Gredos. Rose gold in color. The nose has minerals, saline, beeswax and an herbal note. Creamy texture. On the palate, slight peach but again, its the minerals and that herbal quality that dominate. Really enjoyable.

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• 2016 Bodega Maranones Albillo Vinos de Madrid Piesdescalzos 95 Points

  Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid

  Wow. Stunning white wine. I wish I could have brought some back. This is a single vineyard white from the Albillo Realle grape. Light golden in color. The nose has some white peaches, minerals and saline. On the palate, those qualities carry through. Creamy texture. Long finish. deep and complex. Reminiscent of a great white Burgundy in terms of texture and depth. I wonder how well this will age.

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A wonderful visit. My only regret was that we never made it back to the winery (we went straight to another winery) and so I didn't get to buy any wines. I found a couple of the wines in Madrid but not the top single vineyard wines. I need to figure out how to get some here in the states.