Post-Insignia Burgundy Dinner
Our House
Tasted Sunday, October 14, 2007 by Siggy with 1,308 views
Introduction
Following our blowout Insignia vertical tasting on Saturday, we gave our livers a few hours of rest and gathered at my house for a Sunday afternoon dinner. The (loose) theme was Burgundy. In attendance were George Kautzman, Dave Dalluge, Chris Larson, Brad England, Chris Palm, Jeff Samusleon, Craig Vanderah, my wife Jennie (food only, 8 months pregnant!), and me. We hung out for several hours, cooking, watching football, and listening to blues music. I made cedar planked salmon and wild rice, and Dave Dalluge contributed several terrific dishes, including butternut squash soup, Parmesean cheese crisps, Gruyere cheese gougeres, and pistachio/flourless chocolate tarts. Chris Larson brought a cheese assortment and made a mushroom dish. A very fun, low-key afternoon and a great way to end our weekend of bacchanalia.
The 2004 Leroys showed really well. My WOTN was the 2004 Leroy Vosne-Romanee. The 80 Vogue Musigny was a real treat too.
2001 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl Flawed
France, Alsace
Dark gold with a green tinge. Slightly spritzy and effervescent. On the palate, somewhat simple flavors of sweet honey and diesel. Likely not a representative bottle.
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1985 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Medium maroon with some lightening at the rim. Dark red cherry fruit. Funky, mushroomy, and horsey -- more so than the two other bottles from this lot that I opened previously. Picks up nice mineral/iron notes on the midpalate. Medium-weight, evolved, great silky texture. Quite mature.
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1985 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 94 Points
France, Champagne
Crisp, with layers of minerally fruit. Delicious, oxidative style. Long, toasty finish. Great precision and acidity. Delicious.
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1990 Henriot Champagne Cuvée des Enchanteleurs Brut 92 Points
France, Champagne
Youthful gold color. Layered, complex flavors of apples, honey, nuts, and toast. Nice minerality. Gorgeous acidity. Not quite up to the level of the 1985 Krug (an unfair comparison), but very tasty.
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2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Pale gold. Tight and steely. On the palate this shows citrus fruit and minerals, but is very closed and unyielding. Perhaps a touch of dry botrytis? Good concentration. Let these sleep for a few more years.
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1972 Maison Leroy Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
My second taste of this in a week. Consistent with the other bottle. What a treat. Expressive, high-toned red fruit, tea, rhubarb, and earth. Smooth, supple minerality. Completely mature.
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1966 Maison Leroy Chapelle-Chambertin 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
My second taste of this in a week. Layered, perfumed flavors of sour cherries and mushrooms. More concentrated (red) fruit than the 72 Leroy Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er, tasted side-by-side (see TN). Complex, elegant and beautifully balanced. Unmistakably Grand Cru. Delicious.
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1996 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Very dark color. The nose oozes power and concentration - brooding black fruit. The palate is slightly more restrained, but still shows plenty of concentrated black fruit with nice minerality poking through on the finish. Gorgeous texture. Incredibly young.
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1997 Domaine Leroy Nuits St. Georges Aux Allots 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
Second time I've tasted this. Excellent, but not quite up to the level of the first bottle. Dark, very ripe fruit, with some iron/mineral on the midpalate. Spicy and smoky. Just a touch tart on the finish.
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2004 Domaine Leroy Bourgogne 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
I poured this in a blind mini-flight with the 2004 Leroy Vosne-Romanee (see TN), and most people correctly pegged this as the Bourgogne. Open for business. Thick, ripe, dark red cherry fruit. Really young, but showing hints of earth and mushroom underneath the lush fruit.
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2004 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
I poured this in a blind mini-flight with the 2004 Leroy Bourgogne, and most people correctly pegged this as the Vosne-Romanee (see TN). Clearly Grand Cru quality here. Intense Asian spice, dark fruit, with sneaky floral minerality on the midpalate and finish. Great balance and complexity. Still very young and primal. We debated whether this wine, which is 3x the price of the Bourgogne, is worth the premium. I think so. Either way, it is fantastic juice. WOTN for me.
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1980 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Bright, high-toned cherry fruit. Medium intensity, fresh, with good minerality. Interesting notes of brown sugar and caramel. Soft, but put on weight with air. Elegant, but not a lightweight. So much finesse. Long finish. Yum.
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2000 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Slight funk/VA on the nose. Darker fruit than the 1980, tasted side-by-side (see TN). Ripe, with sweet caramel flavors to complement the red fruit. Soft, not showing much structure. I suspect this might have been an off bottle.
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1998 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Funky nose. Flavors of cherry Pixie Stix and raspberries. Not much secondary nuance. Straightforward; showing some oak. Not a blockbuster example of this wine, judging from the reviews. I suspect this could have been an off bottle as well.
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2000 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Soft, showing some plummy, lightly stewed fruit. A hint of caramel and some oak on the finish. Straightforward and pleasant.
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1999 Domaine Dujac Chambolle-Musigny 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Dark cherry fruit, tobacco and earth. Medium weight, and medium- to high acid. The finish is long but slightly drying. Not especially deep or complex, but nice bright fruit and good structure for a village-level wine.
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2004 Rhys Pinot Noir Home Vineyard 92 Points
USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Mateo County
Ripe black fruit. Smooth and velvety mouthfeel, with pungent minerality and nice bright acidity. No hard edges or excess structure here. Good concentration and length. Very impressive.
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2003 Château Suduiraut 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Consistent with prior bottles. Liquid white peaches, honey, and apricots. Plump and concentrated. Yum.
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