Sine Qua Non (SQN) Magnum Extravaganza + Bevan, Mike Smith, Sparkling/Champagne, and others

Calistoga
Tasted Saturday, August 4, 2018 by csimm with 661 views

Introduction

An absolutely amazing night of wonderful wine and perfect company. Thanks to our hosts who spoiled all of us with one of the most unique tastings I've experienced. Great times!

Flight 1 (6 Notes)

  • NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 165eme 94 Points

    France, Champagne

    Previous notes from two months ago apply, except that I bumped this up another point primarily because of the nice oxidative butterscotch and plantain notes that developed over time in the glass with some air, adding complexity and depth to the otherwise steely yellow citrus core. A clean and direct delivery, with a back end that lingered nicely on the finish.

    Unfortunately, this was bested by just about every other sparkler in the lineup (Dom, Vilmart, Ultramarine). More a victim of comparison than anything else. Quality stuff, but not necessarily showing top flight complexity at this stage. 93-94-ish points.

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  • 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 97 Points

    France, Champagne

    This was the sparkler of the evening, with superb balance and delivery of flavors across the palate from entry to the finish. Mature oxidative notes of salty butterscotch, bruised lemon peel, brioche, and poached pear. But also driven and energetic, with oyster shell, quince, and some chalk on the back end.

    Not a harsh edge to be found here, but no rounded-out slouch either. The posture on this Champagne was extraordinary, with just enough grip to hold the flavors gorgeously intact. A juxtaposition of mouth-coating unctuousness and vibrant acidity. Drink now, but can still hold up for a number of years to come. 96-97 points.

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  • NV Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut 94 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    70/30 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir. Disgorged September 2016.

    Clean and crisp, like an extra brut with its chalky layering interwoven between the beautiful core of strawberry-lemon and white stone fruit flavors. A slamming body, with a focus and delineation of flavors that elevated this wine to the next level. For an NV, this thing was firing on all cylinders. Room for aging, but I was loving how this was performing as a PnP right now. No real oxidative characteristics that I could detect, and certainly drinking younger than the older sparklers in the lineup, but man was this monkey climbing all over the palate with its energetic and tiered flavors. The cut on this wine was especially wonderful.

    Holding another couple of years might still be ideal. 93-94+ points with possible upside after 2020+.

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  • 2008 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Special Club 95 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    A really enjoyable Special Club. Clean yellow citrus with the perfect amount of yeast and saline to provide a beautifully enticing body and cut. Nice oyster shell and salted lemon curd additions made for a layered complexity of flavors that were both cerebral and plain ‘ol fun. A fantastic drive and energy here. Opened up even more after a couple of hours after PnP. 94-95 points.

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  • 2010 Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast 94 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

    Funky yellow citrus, quince, chalk, seaweed, bruised lemon rind, and some wet hay. An interesting display of flavors across the palate, offering a unique complexity certainly not seen with domestic sparklers. The finish was almost like walking along a foggy shoreline when the tide has gone out. It’s a cool and saline-driven experience, but with a little funk from the receding seawater.

    This is certainly not the slap of yellow lemon juice the way some local BdBs can present themselves. Thankfully, this is a little bit of a departure from the usual. I’m not necessarily sold on this wine as the second coming of Christ just yet, but I did enjoy it quite a bit. This was firing-off more generously than the 2012 Ultramarine served beside it.

    The 2010 is drinking fine now, but another year could prove beneficial. 93-94+? points.

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  • 2012 Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast 92 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

    White stone and high-pitched yellow citrus core fruit. More linear in its delivery when compared to the 2010 Ultramarine served next to it. A little bit of the usual saline funk I associate with this label managed to peek though.

    Needs time to fan out its flavor profile a bit more. Hold for 2+ years.

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Flight 2 (1 Note)

  • 1997 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District

    PnP and this at-first-look beauty caressed the palate with lovely black core fruit and black/blue river rock. With every moment of air, however, this HSS started to quickly soften. In little time, the mid-palate had become fairly lithe. Flavors of faint black currant, scorched earth, worn leather, and dried cranberry held interest, but they became washed away with a watery weight that diluted the initial intensity. I much appreciated the nuances here, but the body couldn’t seem to keep up with the flavors over time. The finish was fairly flat by the end of it all.

    92-93 points based solely on the initial sips. For my palate, this is on the dark side of the moon in terms of its downward aging trajectory. Drink now and enjoy, but be mindful of its exposure to air.

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Flight 3 (6 Notes)

  • 2008 Bevan Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon David's Cuvée Showket Vineyards 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    From .750. Interesting the differences between this bottle and the magnum from the day before. This bottle was just as smooth and beautiful, but noticeably less intense and more medium in its delivery of flavors. It was better a little colder (<52 degrees). As it warmed up, it became a little flatter, especially on the back end.

    Though I personally favored the more impassioned juice from yesterday’s magnum, this wine from .750 was still beautifully sleek and alluring. Drink your .750s now.

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  • 2008 Bevan Cellars Danger D Cuvée Showket Vineyards 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    From .750. While the David’s Cuvée was noticeably less intense in .750 than from magnum the day before, the Danger D was fairly similar between the two bottling sizes. Possibly a hair less concentrated than the powerful juice out of magnum. Previous note from yesterday otherwise applies.

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  • 2016 Bevan Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Wildfoote Vineyard, Vixen Block 99 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District

    Oh man, is this wine gonna be a sexy siren when it has a chance to fully come together. Currently, it’s a pro athlete in training mode getting geared-up for the main event. Driven and captivating for sure.

    This was even better than when I recently had it back in June. I was also fortunate enough to be able to follow this wine throughout the course of a couple of days. Day 2 was even better, with the alcohol tapering off, leaving massively concentrated black juice packed with black/blue fruit, scorched earth, blackberry mocha, chocolate chunk, molten tar, asphalt, and hints of super DARK ripe black raspberry and cardamom.

    Compared to a 2017 barrel sample of the Wildfoote I had a day later, this 2016 came off much more powerful and brawny. The 2017 was surprisingly more polished and smooth right out of the barrel (more akin to some of the more silky and feminine characteristics [by Bevan standards at least] I have associated with Wildfootes of the past - especially 2012). This 2016 is indeed the Serena Williams of Wildfootes at the moment.

    The Wildfoote is the definite favorite for me of Bevan’s 2016 vintage lineup. 95-97 points on Day 1; 98-99+ points on Day 2. My previous note applies otherwise.

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  • 2016 Bevan Cellars EE Cuvée Tench Vineyard 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    Huge blackberry and black raspberry core fruit, with waves of boozy red and black licorice, black cherry liqueur, currant, and spice. Delivering flavor like a hussie barrel sample from a brothel in Bangkok, this saucy kitten is gonna need some time in bottle to learn some manners. Great stuffing, but complicated by a lot of booze currently.

    The 2016 Sugarloaf was a little less hooch-ridden than this EE, but both displayed similar properties flavor-wise. The EE certainly flexed more power.

    This 2016 is currently showing a much more “larger than life” attitude than the 2015 EE did when it was at a similar age. The 2016 should calm down significantly after a couple of years and start behaving like its year-older sibling. I personally think the 2016 is/will continue to be a bigger wine than the 2015 (and previous vintages), so give it until after 2021+ to really find its glide. It’s a Medusa that truly wants to be Athena...just let her find her happy place in a suitable time-out in the dungeon for now. 95-96++ points with certain upside in a few years.

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  • 2016 Bevan Cellars Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    A gorgeous and massive frontal attack of black and purple core fruit, with black raspberry, bitter chocolate, dark cassis, and spice notes. Similar to the ‘16 EE served beside it, but with less overt alcohol than the EE. The Sugarloaf certainly has its share of baby fat and booze that it’ll need to shed before it can become a contributing member of society, but it was a hair less bombastic than the EE in its current state.

    Give the Sugarloaf a few years to settle down. These Bevan wines are huge in 2016. They have phenomenal stuffing (especially the Wildfoote), and should morph into captivating wines shortly down the road. Hold until 2021+. 95-96++ points.

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  • 2016 Lerner Project Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    From magnum. Dark, chocolate-covered black cherry and black raspberry core fruit, with dark clove and anise spice notes. Compelling scorched earth, embers, and black earthy soil components added interest. A more medium-bodied mid-palate when compared to Bevan’s 2016 namesake wines, but still very well endowed. “Medium” by Bevan comparative standards, at least. Full and rich as far as the rest of the free world is probably concerned. Chewy and yummy indeed.

    A little extracted, but the earth notes kept it honest. Some booze on the back end made for a slightly hot finish; air helped blow off that sensation and even it out quite a bit. Hold this budding beauty for 3-5 years. 94-95+ points for now, with upside after 2022/2023+.

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 2016 Myriad Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Empyrean Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard 100 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

    From magnum. Decanted and aerated over the course of 3+ hours. Final sips were the absolute best.

    Electric black and purple core fruit, with a vivacious and explosive (but deliberate and sophisticated) display of blackberry and black cherry liqueur, Amarema cherry syrup, black raspberry, blueberry pie crust, freshly ground cardamom pod and coriander seed, and subtle dust.

    Coming off like the most attention-grabbing barrel sample of GIII ever created, this particular magnum of ‘16 Empyrean shot out like a flavor-rocket on the front end and then cascaded with a rolling thunderous, palate-coating concentration on the mid. The unreal finish kept pumping flavors through the back end. Masses of fruit (and not as much baby fat at the standard GIII by comparison); elevated purity and control of ripeness were notable as well. One of the sexiest wines I’ve had in a while (competing with a ‘16 Bevan Wildfoote that was also a super sultry beast).

    Will this wine be better in six months, a year, two years? I say who the heck cares?! Tonight, this bottle was absolutely rockin’ like a liquid Hendrix at a wine Woodstock. If you’re a timorous one who “fears the flavor,” then please see my recent notes on the vertical of Philip Togni wines and occupy yourself with a fibrous swishing of leather and dirt. But if you own your palate for the modern cult-loving vino-fiend that it is, then grab yo-self a hunk of this Empyrean-lovin’ and celebrate a Kool & The Gang grand opening in your fervently parched skull cave.

    Translation: I liked this wine.

    97-100 points. We shall see how this shakes out over time. But tonight, this wine showed signs of a perfection that represented the best of GIII, likely more than I’ve ever personally experienced (and this is after tasting through 20+ mags of amazing SQNs and a handful of powerful Bevan reds).

    I also had the 2016 Myriad “standard” GIII the other day. By comparison, the Empyrean showed more concentration, intensity, and sophisticated/complex barrel influence over the GIII. Not sure what Jeb Dunnuck used as a rubric to rate the Empyrean below the GIII?! ...Because the Empyrean is next-level indeed!

    For those who are familiar with the 2015 Empyrean, this 2016 is seemingly more powerful and intense than the 2015 was at a similar age (fairly recently bottled). Especially at first glance, I’m loving this 2016; yet another example of amazing juice coming out of the 2016 vintage in Napa!

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  • 2015 Becklyn Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    From 3L. Similar to previous notes. Huge, plush, ripe attack, with black/red/purple fruit liqueur, black cherry, plum, and vanilla. A fantastic flavor profile; a little plump and doughy on its delivery at the moment and still in need of shedding a little toddler fat, but will be an even more fun and fantastic sipper come 2019. Mighty tasty. Probably worth holding another 6-12 months.

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Flight 5 (19 Notes)

  • 2000 Sine Qua Non Syrah In Flagrante 92 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Cherry, brick/terra cotta, prime rib, soil, and some wood. A decent attack on the front end energy-wise; medium weight mid palate, with the flavors watering-out to a more lithe and short finish. A bit clipped and bitter on the back end.

    After about 5+ hours of decanting, the bitterness had dissipated some, but the intensity and depth of flavor were pretty washed out. Similar to the ‘00 Incognito and ‘01 Ventriloquist in terms of how it is showing overall age-wise. Seemingly past its prime by a number of years, but still an interesting wine nonetheless. More of a science experiment at this point.

    Drink ‘em if ya got ‘em.

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  • 2000 Sine Qua Non Incognito 94 Points

    USA, California

    From magnum. Kirsch/cherry water, strawberry seed, red brick, Kauai red dirt, prosciutto, and hints of wet wood. Similar flavor profile to the ‘00 Flagrante and ‘01 Ventriloquist, but with more comparative depth and intensity, especially mid-palate. The Incognito’s finish was longer and stronger than the other two as well.

    Definitely on the down side of the aging cycle. Drink now.

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  • 2001 Sine Qua Non Ventriloquist 91 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Strawberry seed, red dirt, orange rind, and terra cotta. The least expressive when compared to the ‘00 Flagrante and ‘00 Incignito. Some interesting flavors, but overshadowed by a bitterness throughout. The finish fell pretty fast.

    This showed as particularly advanced along aging-wise...probably the most depleted of the all the SQN mags tasted. Drink now if you are still holding (or sell ‘em for the wacky premiums they are going for these days and buy yourself a nice Tesla)!

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  • 2001 Sine Qua Non Midnight Oil 95 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Plum, kirsch, brick, tobacco leaf, leather, wood, and some red/black cherry. Missing some seamless as far as flavor delivery and an overall smoothness/glide, but otherwise an array of mature but interesting flavors swirling around the palate made for some cerebral juice. The finish was a little longer than the other 2000 and 2001 SQNs served beside it.

    Most of the points here are for the push of intriguing flavors and the drive this wine had to kick out a complexity that, though aged and advanced, was still tiered and fairly vivacious. Just a little lacking in the finesse department. Fun and fascinating otherwise.

    Drink now and over the next couple of years. I don’t imagine time helping this wine any further at this point.

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  • 2002 Sine Qua Non Syrah Just For the Love of It 94 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Kirsch, over-ripe strawberry, red cherry, bruised/brown red raspberry, tobacco leaf, warm leather, and some incense. A ton of energy here, with the spicy over-ripe strawberry note repeating over and over agin on the delivery. The finish was fairly long, eventually tapering off to slightly bitter spice and strawberry seed notes.

    The first magnum was horribly corked ($4,000+ down the drain...ouch!). This was the second of two magnums. Drinking good now, and could possibly go for another year or so without too much variation (but that's a pretty broad assumption on my part). Personally, for my palate, I wouldn't wait much longer. The windows for SQNs delivering at their apexes seems to be around a decade from vintage...meaning, the 2007/2008 vintages are drinking AWESOME right now.

    Drink this 2002 now.

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  • 2002 Sine Qua Non Syrah Heart Chorea 95 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. This was a fascinating wine indeed. Some were very drawn to it; others thought its flavor profile was almost too unique and a greater departure from its intended varietal makeup to be derivative of anything really "pleasurable." I actually agree with both sides. I did find some pleasure here, but it was indeed a "different" wine, where I found the need to use air quotes every time I conversed about a specific flavor or tasting experience after each sip.

    Notes of bruised strawberry, tobacco, red brick, terra cotta, black-orange breakfast tea, triple sec, cherry water, cedar plank, and garrigue. The black tea note injected itself through all of the other flavors, and was a constant predominant flavor throughout consumption. I felt like I was drinking an aged Grenache tea at times. Nonetheless, I found it fun to ping-pong back and forth between liking this wine and being utterly confused by it. Certainly not in my palate preference wheelhouse necessarily, but it wasn't so distracting that I couldn't totally appreciate the distinctness of its representation of an aged version of the varietal.

    Drink now.

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  • 2007 Sine Qua Non Grenache Dangerous Birds 96 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Moving from the 2000, 2001, and 2002 SQNs and skipping a few years to embark on the 2007s and 2008s in the lineup, this is where I really started to find pleasure and excitement. Though this Grenache was likely the most reserved of the 2007/2008 SQNs, it still carried beautiful and vibrant flavors indicative of the varietal; performing where it likely ought to be considering its domestic and modern roots, it was a compelling representation of Grenache.

    Specific notes of wild black cherry, deep bruised red raspberry, kirsch, saline, incense, cinnamon, forest floor, mulch, garrigue, and hints of charcuterie. Intensely spicy on the attack, with the incense note framing the core fruit. Great weight on the mid-palate. The finish was a touch bitter, with a numbing cinnamon tinge appearing on the tail end. Still some tannins here, but nothing that overpowered the flavors or prevented this wine from showing most of its cards right up front.

    A fun ride of a wine. I preferred the Syrah for its darker, more purple-fruited profile; a more complex wine by comparison. Still, this Grenache was an invigorating ride. Drink now and over the next couple of years.

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  • 2007 Sine Qua Non Syrah Dangerous Birds 98 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Purple/blue/black core fruit, with specific notes of purple plum, blackberry liqueur, blueberry, blue river rock, asphalt, black peppercorn, saline, purple licorice (whatever that is exactly), and some black currant and obsidian. Perfect balance and beautifully weighted mid-palate. An extraordinary finish, with the blue slate/river rock really working well on the back end to finish-out the pumping purple/blue fruit crescendoing in perfect harmony.

    This wine reminded me of an aged version of the 2014 Next of Kyn, whose electric purple fruit was so intense and captivating that it was almost too much of a good thing (I said "almost," cuz it was friggin awesome). For me, this is a drink-now wine, simply because I love the flavor intensity, which was still firmly intact but also gorgeously gushing with fruit and minerality. Resolved in terms of tannin/alcohol.

    Drink now or hold with confidence for a couple of years. But as mentioned, this is one I'd consider popping in the near future. It had a total of 3+ hours in the decanter by the last time I tried it. Tasted multiple times...well...because I kept coming back for more. Shockingly, the 2007 Pictures stole the show from even this awesome wine. The 2007s and 2008s were truly fantastic across the board!

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  • 2007 Sine Qua Non Grenache Pictures 99 Points

    USA, California

    From magnum. An extraordinary wine whose distribution of flavor had so much to do with temperature control. When I first tasted it on PnP, it was operating in that 94-ish point range. The bottle was creeping toward room temperature, and the flavors (though interesting and seemingly complex) came off a little flat and blown out because of the elevated temperature. It displayed some awesome saline and wild blueberry and blackberry notes up front, and then hit into the red fruit spectrum as it traveled through the mid and back end.

    Decanted and cooled down over an ice bucket for a number of hours. NOW this is what I'm talking about! The flavors came into amazing focus. Super elevated and distinct, tiered and complex. Wave after deliberate wave of blackberry, black raspberry, red/purple plum, wild blueberry, strong saline, railroad tie, camphor, asphalt, and black sand beach. I would have thought this was more Syrah-driven than Grenache based on its fruit profile, but it showed some more familiar hints of its varietal heritage toward the tail end.

    An amazing wine that has a decent amount of life left in it. For me, I'd be opening this now and giving it a healthy decant. Consider drinking at a cooler temperature (<52 degrees), as it really did improve the focus of the flavors. Beautiful stuff.

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  • 2007 Sine Qua Non Body & Soul 91 Points

    USA, California

    From magnum. Butterscotch, lamp oil, grilled peach, bruised pear, bronze/copper, and some brown pineapple. Fairly oxidized, but still maintaining its intensity of flavors (though overly-matured) and energetic delivery across the palate. Nice drive, except for the fact that it was overtly showing its age. Decanting heightened this effect (no surprise). Past its prime. Drink now.

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  • 2008 Sine Qua Non Grenache The Duel 96 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Purple/red plum, deep kirsch, raspberry, strawberry, and wild red and black cherry. Some garrigue and underbrush on the finish. Seemingly higher on the acid spectrum, with a formidable grip clenching the sides of the mouth, squeezing the palate before releasing more fruit on the back end. A mild bite on the finish resurfaced on the very tail end.

    This wine was much better after a few hours in the decanter. More seamless and smooth with air. Holding for another year might be prudent, especially if it is in magnum format. The .750s might be optimum at this juncture (not sure). In this case, the acid was apparent, but only somewhat distracting. Otherwise, the pure and intense fruit was very compelling.

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  • 2008 Sine Qua Non Syrah The Duel 100 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. One of my favorite wines of the night. Off-the-charts intensity, concentration, and power (especially for a decade-old wine). Unbelievably complex. Notes of wild blackberry, camphor, campfire, sea foam, incense, baking spices, Brachetto d'Acqui, asphalt/dried tar, and some oyster shell. Smokey and salty, elevating the core fruit with a cut of saline-driven minerality and funky eucalyptol/creosote notes.

    A fascinating wine that was similar to the 2007 Pictures, but with more complexity and a uniqueness of flavors that set it apart from all of the SQNs tasted. This was WOTN for many of us. Drinking amazingly well right now. A few hours in the decanter helped improve the depth and broaded the flavor spectrum a bit more. Probably good to hold for a few years, but having this from magnum (and decanted/aerated) was optimum at this juncture. A perfect and beguiling example of the varietal.

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  • 2008 Sine Qua Non Grenache THE Line 94 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Dried strawberry, bitter plum, kirsch, cherry water, and some underbrush. Strawberry and blackberry seeds on the finish, making it bitter on the back end. Purity of fruit was notable, but it seemed to be in a bit of a disjointed phase at the moment. Decanting certainly helped stretch its legs more, but it acted like a wine that was either way too young (linear and somewhat restricted), or was jut not as concentrated as its brethren. I personally think it's the latter. 93-94 points for me at this stage. One of least expressive SQNs of the evening. Hold for now in hopes the fruit holds up and it sheds itself of some of the bitterness.

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  • 2008 Sine Qua Non Syrah B 20 94 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Funky purple plum, asphalt, mulch, licorice, and some blueberry. Slightly bitter on the finish, which made for a somewhat clipped experience insofar as the display of fruit was concerned, as it tried to emerge through the bite of the sometimes pithy and grainy minerality swirling through the core.

    The flavors themselves were very good and noteworthy. My palate preference indeed leaned toward this profile. It was just a little wonky in terms of integration. Seamlessness was lacking here. Hold for another year+ in hopes it comes together better.

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  • 2011 Sine Qua Non Syrah Patine Eleven Confessions Vineyard 94 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

    From Magnum. Not surprisingly, the initial pull was pretty tight and linear, with higher register funky plum popping out in the front end. Finish was clipped and somewhat bitter. It essentially took the whole evening (about 6+ hours) to really find a discernible flavor glide. However, it always seemed to carry a more reserved profile and never fully blossomed.

    Ultimately, this wine showed some beautiful (but still a little bitter) notes of blackberry seed, plum, unripe blueberry, railroad tie, and grey river rock. Needs more time. Hold until after 2021+.

    In contrast, the ‘11 Patine Grenache was in a MUCH better place, kicking out all sorts of concentrated flavors.

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  • 2011 Sine Qua Non Grenache Patine Eleven Confessions Vineyard 98 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

    From magnum. After about 4-5 hours of decanted air, this wine blossomed into a massively concentrated beast, with sexy, deep kirsch, ripe raspberry, bruised strawberry, soft-warm leather, garrigue, and incense.

    The unreal mid-palate depth played well with the athletic drive that catapulted the flavors, finishing with a notable intensity that carried the finish on for over a minute; this is a wine that lingers on your palate memory forever. Even still, I feel there’s more to come with this wine. Obviously drinking great now, but perhaps an even more optimal drinking window to be had after 2020. 97-98+ points, with upside in a year or two.

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  • 2011 Sine Qua Non The Moment 92 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

    From magnum. Quince, lemon peel, lemon seed, and white rock. Fairly bitter and linear, this wine never fully came around for me, even with hours in the decanter. It was good, but missing some of the “wow” factor I usually associate with SQN’s whites. Stayed in second gear all night.

    Hold for another year and hope the fruit still stays fresh enough after 2019/2020.

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  • 2013 Next of Kyn No~7 Cumulus Vineyard 94 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Tight, tannic, and hyper-linear for most of the evening. Decanted for 5-6 hours with little signs of letting go of its firm grip. Some notes of boozy black cherry, unripe raspberry, vanilla glycol, and a bitter floral note on the finish. It’s got a laser focus and the scaffolding to go the distance, but it’s going to need a double-handful of years to work everything out and stop being such a stubborn monkey. Hold until after 2022/2023+.

    This was night and day when compared to the unbelievably gorgeous 2014 Next of Kyn No.8. Both are monsters, but the 2014 offered up awesome flavor and complexity after an evening’s worth of decanted air.

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  • 2014 Next of Kyn No~8 Cumulus Vineyard 100 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    From magnum. Upon first pull, this showed some intriguing blackberry seed and purple plum notes that desperately wanted to jump out of the glass. The first few hours were a slow burn of an awakening that eventually led to an utter explosion of flavor and power.

    After about 4+ hours of decanted air, and resting atop an ice bucket to maintain proper temperature on an otherwise warm evening, this wine absolutely blew up with a surreal intensity and a depth of flavor that just about shamed everything else in its path. It’s a big wine and it’s not “ready” by scientific standards, but boy oh boy was this thing peacocking already with its electric blueberry, blackberry, purple plum, charcoal, camphor, menthol, and blue river rock notes. Much more modern and bombastic than previous SQNs, reflecting both youth and a seeming stylistic variation here.

    Whatever your preference, it’s hard to deny the expert construction of this particular wine. Captivating, driven, complex, and pure. The only thing missing from this at the moment is some finesse, which I have confidence it will gain over the next few years. Ideally, wait until after 2022++. 98-100 points.

    A huge contrast with the 2013 Next of Kyn No.7, which was all balled-up with nowhere to go all night; hyper-vigilantly tannic and on-guard. The 2014 was just as big, but had the presence of amazing flavor to back up its intensity and fortitude.

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