Harlan vertical

Martel hosted a rare Harlan vertical with 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. 33 people were lucky enough to get a ticket with many more on the waiting list. A total of 30 bottle were opened, as I understood all of which from Martel, the main importer in Switzerland and actually the first merchant to import Harlan in 1994. Brief key notes were held by Jan Martel himself as well as Francoise Vignaud, an associate with Harlan.

All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.

The 16ha Harlan estate is particular with its 20-30 degrees sloped vineyards in Western Napa - that is pretty steep - which with close to 360 degrees face in almost all directions and contain two major soil types. The estate is currently in the process of handing down to the next generation. Francois also explained, as usual in Napa, the challenge is not ripening of the fruit, but maintaining freshness, hence key is covering the soil and maintaining nutrients.

When starting winemaking in 1990 Harlan the estate started off with very young vines and had to do long macerations and then aging in 90% new French oak to balance freshness and fruit. Thy still do relatively long maceration which is a soft way of extraction and provides the right tannic backbone for aging. After 2010 started getting more texture from the vines so shifted to more neutral oak, currently running at around 60% new oak with 26-28mths in the barrel. In order to be best prepared water shortage challenges, Harlan already applies dry farming after 3 years of vine age, but the goal is 100% dry farming in the not too distant future.

The estate has produced 20,000 bottles on average in recent years and around 6,000 in early vintages. Record so far was 2012 with 28,000.

• 1994 Harlan Estate 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  2014 was one of the earliest vintages, wines were only 9 years old. This was the first growing season yielding close to perfection fruit according to Fracois Vignaud. Delicate, linear and still youthful with great fruit presence, mostly cassis, ripe berries, just a whiff of leather and fine cedar wood. Very Bordeaux-like first impression, but weightless and sexy too and more feminine. Pretty acidic with some heat, firm structure, and just a tad edgy tannins and a not as fine a texture as I would have hoped. Great stuff for sure and the strongest of the 1990ies we were shown. But the Dominus 1994 which I had only a few weeks ago seemed even better at this stage. A >95 nose no doubt initially, but after 1.5h in the glass age tiredness kicks in which also drops through to the palate unfortunately – although this also adds some earthy complexity. A great wine in a great spot, but maybe best to drink up rather sooner than later.

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• 1995 Harlan Estate 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  Medium intensity. Slightly darker appearance and a bit more heat. Aging has left tertiary notes in the mix but not yet dominant. Fruit more red cherry than ripe cassis in what seems to be a more fruit forward vinification. Some herbal notes (green tea) there too. Still quite fresh, but also comes across at the verge of getting tired on the palate with towering acidity and the fruit in the background. Decent tension keeps the parts together still but I fear not for much longer.

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• 1996 Harlan Estate 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  Clear signs of aging in the first nose (some beef stew here), and in the second and third too unfortunately. But not all is lost, still some red berry fruit shining through, fresh minty herbs and maybe some liquorice and after a while toast too. A fresh, somewhat fruity palate with enough structure and texture to keep this alive for now. We were told 1996 was actually one of the favourite vintages in the 90ies, but that some bottles have started showing signs of oxidation.

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• 2004 Harlan Estate 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  Over-aged was the first impression with beef juice and soy aromas overshadowing a ripe fruit. Secondary flavours like (wet) tobacco leaves, aged leather and a tad char coal minerality were still discernible if you tried hard enough. The palate was still quite ok, however. We asked whether this was a faulty bottle but were told some just were like this from this vintage. Luckily a friendly wine companion from another table let me have a quick smell at his glass with juice from a different bottle and behold it was still perfectly fine. Amazingly, after >3h, my glass too found a short window where the oxidized soy type of flavours went in hiding and revealed lots of toast and a hot but not overripe fruit, quite similar to the outstanding 2005 in fact. Maybe shouldn't be scoring actually. Mine was NR but the quick glimpse I caught of a good bottle was solid.

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• 2005 Harlan Estate 97 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  Singular in its showing of char coal or burned toast. A much more mineral style than other vintages I found (Francoise mentioned roasted dark coffee beans). Beautiful, shining marmalade fruit, mixed fresh herbs, some smoke. Light, fresh and very harmonious palate with a firm yet light structure and a fine texture. Long finish. Layered complexity also on the palate including toast. Even if the precision and purity was not as distinct as in the nose, this is outstanding and in my view the runner-up of the tasting, right behind the 2012.

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• 2006 Harlan Estate 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  This was a more classic style and more typical for a Napa cab with more extraction. Ripe, slightly jamy raspberry and cassis fruit. Freshly cut herbs from the garden and mineral with iodine and wet stones. More powerful than the other vintages but athleltic rather than muscular and still more delicate. Balance not perfect but good nonetheless.

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• 2012 Harlan Estate 98 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  After half a second in the nose it became clear to me that this must be one of the best Napa cabs excluding the Futo 5500 from the same vintage. Baking spices, vanilla, liquorice, cedar and fine oak accompany a jammy, ripe red or rather blue berry fruit. Tannins with more grip here but well integrated into a strong structure. Fresh acidity on the palate with a layered texture and medium + finish. A record year for the estate with 28k bottles produced I was told, but this clearly didn't limit quality in any way. My wine of the night without any discussion.

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• 2013 Harlan Estate 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  Medium intensity initially. Baking spices and vanilla jump to mind first. Dense with slightly sharper tannins. Cooler vintage compared to 2012 or 2014 and currently somewhat restrained as are many 2013 Napa cabs currently. Cooler rather than ripe fruit on the palate, some floral aromatics too. Probably needs a few more years but everything is at its right place, but great potential here. After 3.5h in the glass started opening up more and more, but the fruit profile remained slightly cooler compared to the others in the vertical.

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• 2014 Harlan Estate 96 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Harlan vertical of 9 vintages over 25 years (1994-96, 2004-06, 2012-14), quite rare apparently and not many of these happening outside of Switzerland – benefit of living in a high GDP per capita country I guess. All wines excelled distinctly with softness, elegance and feminine showings as well as perfectly integrated tannins, especially for the naughties. Wine of the night was 2012 with 2005 the runner-up and 2014 not far behind. The 1990ies showed early signs of tiring unfortunately, but maybe not a big surprise given vines were only about 10 years old back then. Francois Vignaud, an associate with Harlan, co-hosted the event and shared plenty of insights. See the tasting story for more on this. As we were explained, the 1990ies represented the childhood years for this still rather recent estate (founded 1984, first vintage 1990). The 2000s were characterized as the teenage years in slightly warmer vintages where you have to careful with the 2001-04 (all still very powerful) but where the 2005 and 2006 are reaching ideal levels of integration now. The 2010s, finally, Francois highlighted that the estate felt they arrived exactly where they wanted to be in terms of how Harlan understands their product and that they have never produced better wines than today. All bottles were opened 2.5h before the start.
  
  First impression almost candy like fruit. A bit restrained initially compared to the super expressive 2012, but beautifully delicate, sweet spices and toasted oak. A bit less linear and precise than the 2012 was my impression having them next to each other, but still a great and elegant showing, both in the nose and on the palate. Latter characterized by freshness, present but fine-grained tannins. Every second nose has hints of medicinal notes expanding the aroma profile. Ultimately, after 2.5h in the glass, resembling more and more the 2012. Later still some menthol emerges.

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