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Tasted Saturday, January 18, 2020 by SimonG with 143 views
Gougeres
Ginger-infused ragout of langoustine
Pale to mid straw with green highlights. Saline with a minerality and just a slight hint of richness on the nose. Saline, mineral, slightly limey with a finely chewy chalky texture. Focused and long with plenty of complexity. This is splendid. The best of the 04 Grand Crus for me. *****
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Similar to the Côte de B alongside, but just a little fuller and slightly richer on the nose. Similar profile, but again just a touch of gras that the C de B has long since shed. Minerally with a similar chalky grip, but also a hint of honey starting to emerge. The slightly less elegant, plumper sibling, but very much familial. ****
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Grouse, and then cheese
Double decanted 2hrs. When opened this was mid ruby, all zingy raspberry fruit and brightness. Fills out, and becomes more serious in the decanter. Lovely raspberry fruit alongside something darker, a touch of smoke, bacon and a meaty element. So elegant despite its stature. Lovely. Not top Chave but not far off on this bottle’s showing. ****1/2
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Dense, full ruby almost with a hint of purple still. Lots of sediment. Raspberry fruit, but very smooth, almost a peppered creaminess. Remains polite for Coronas, but there’s lots of wine here. Holds it’s own structurally but la is some definition and finesse cf the Chave Hermitage. ****
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Full garnet. A sweet, decaying pruned nose with Burgundian levels of sous bois and a healthy dose of VA. Could be Musar. No, there’s something wrong with this. A sense of maderisation coupled with VA and goodness knows what.
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Opened to replace a faulty bottle of the same, and found to be equally faulty in the same way.
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Opened to replace two faulty bottles of 96 HLC, so just grabbed from the cellar and opened. Initially quite cold. Gloriously bright, zingy raspberry fruit. So joyous. Lots of Chave character. An amazing job for 02 and a very good wine by any standard. Builds and grows in the glass, becoming a little darker and denser with air. Just lovely. ****
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Apple crumble, caramel sauce
Deep orangey amber. Dense, intense nose of apricot, passion fruit and honey. Very viscous. Orange notes with barley sugar and honey. Carries its (huge) sweetness well with the balancing acidity. Very long and very concentrated. ****1/2
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1990 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 95 Points
France, Champagne
Mid straw, still with a good stream of bubbles. Rich with a gently spicy nose, a touch of vanilla and warm brioche. That classic DP something on the nose. Vigorous (the guesses of the distinguished panel were something far younger). Nothing even slightly oxidative here. Beautiful poise and a long finish. A wonderful bottle of this. *****
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