Midwinter, 27 July, 2020

Pokai Parera, Ekatahuna, New Zealand
Tasted Monday, July 27, 2020 by Marc with 117 views

Introduction

Warm olives, almonds, and smoked mushrooms

Porcini-scented consommé

Lettuce-wrapped scallops

Fennel and red pepper

Pokai Parera jugged hare

Christmas mince pie and ice cream

Flight 1 (9 Notes)

  • NV Emilio Lustau (Almacenista) Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Palo Cortado VOS 94 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Totally stunning wine - supple texture, ultra-refined structure, soft nutty notes, very aged quality. This particular bottle was found after 15 +years in a cellar, after having been presumed lost. Soft and smooth on the palate with caramel notes in abundance. The additional bottle age certainly has given this wine an incredible polish, fabulous complexity, and a totally mature personality.

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  • 2002 Louis Jadot Bâtard-Montrachet 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Very developed, vivid butterscotch aromas and flavours, a touch of oxidation, but in general while certainly (well) past its peak, the wine is still very vibrant and long, and is not showing any signs of drying out.

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  • 2005 Craggy Range Chardonnay Les Beaux Cailloux 95 Points

    New Zealand, North Island, Hawke's Bay

    Drunk directly after a Jadot Batard Montrachet 2002, this was by far the superior wine. Very much in the style of the Grand Cru, but with considerable new French oak handling, that adds a creamy texture and vanilla palate profile, that is perfectly (and I mean perfectly) balanced by its Hawkes Bay acids. Long, developed, but in no way tired (unlike the Jadot). At a peak of maturity, but showing no signs of decline. The finest NZ Chardonnay I have ever drunk.

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  • 1999 J. L. Wolf Wachenheimer Belz Riesling Spätlese trocken 95 Points

    Germany, Pfalz

    Another brilliant wine in an evening of great wines. Total clarity, perfect balance, stunning purity. The nature of the German acids is very clear in this wine, and the dry, higher alcohol nature of this wine elevates the terroir. Totally classic Riesling. Dedicated to the memory of my Father.

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  • 1990 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline 97 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Full maturity. Fulsome oak. Opulent, soft, and fragrant. Classic wine of beautiful complexity. Very modern expression of Cote Rotie, but the perfect nature of the balance, texture, and length mark this out as a brilliant 1990.

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  • 1990 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 98 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Feels like an amalgamation of the La Mouline and La Landonne in this vintage. Slightly more structured than the Mouline, but still more supple than the Landonne. The extraordinary aspect of this wine lies in its exotic nose of Asian spices, which marry beautifully to the animal/rasperrry notes of the mature Syrah. The oak is (like its siblings) extremely prominent, but with fruit this wonderful, wine making this careful, and a terroir of this stature, the wine is totally classic in quality.

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  • 1990 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    A modern expression of a structured and dense Cote Rotie style. By far the most animal of the Lalas in this vintage. Huge oak adds a creamy note to the dark undergrowth, burnt rubber, and dense deep flavours and aromas of this great wine. In full maturity, but there is no hurry.

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  • 1997 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Drunk after the three 1990 Guigal La Las, this was a classic expression of a more traditional style of Cote Rotie. Gorgeous fruit quality is the driving force of this wine, which while sven years younger than the Guigal wines, came across as far younger. With time in the glass, the wine developed weight, depth and wonderful animal nuance, but in the more-gentle manner of Cote Rotie. A very great wine.

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  • 1994 Fonseca Porto Vintage 92 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    (out of a 375ml)

    Still totally primary, and while supple, the wine is just not currently showing any of the real complexity that comes from bottle age. It is outstanding, but currently not drinking at its apogee. Years ahead of it, to see it at its best.

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