The Development of Older Bordeaux
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Tasted Wednesday, August 5, 2020 by NickA with 150 views
Introduction
Jane Anson says that undergrowth, truffle (particular on the RB), smoke, toast, spice, liquorice and menthol (particularly on the LB) are the characteristic scents of old Bordeaux, and hopes to find them in tonight's wines.
1989 was, at the time, seen as the best vintage since 1982 or perhaps before that, but it has had its problems. 1990 is surer nowadays although it was harder to love when young. JA now feels that 1990 is the better vintage.
Flight 1 - Right Bank (3 Notes)
Flight 2 - Left Bank (3 Notes)
Closing
Really consistent, fault-free set of wines tonight. For me the overriding aroma was of damp earth, but the wines all had very clear individual character. Hard to score them as they kept changing in the glass, but the Gruaud Larose was pretty obviously on the best form tonight.
Based on this small sample you might conclude that 1990s are indeed showing slightly younger than 1989s, but all the wines tonight were at around peak (Pavie and GPL perhaps slightly past, Trotanoy perhaps with the potential to improve further).
1989 Château Pavie 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
55% Merlot, 25% CF, 20% CS; the estate is trying to get back to that cepage nowadays, ie more Cabernet. Only 13% alcohol. Pavie has lots of limestone so tends towards austerity (hence latterly the winemaking has aimed to beef it up - but that hadn't started in 1989).
Red/brown, with clear rim. Gentle on the nose and the palate. Sandalwood, woody embers, damp earth and leather on the nose - like muddy rugby boots in a kit bag. A mouthwatering freshness - still quite a bite to it, and spicy too, but attractively so. Burned meat turning into char siu towards the finish. A little bit faded, but intriguing and very tasty.
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1990 Château Trotanoy 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
90% Merlot, 10% CF. 13.5% alcohol.
Darker than #1. Feels fruitier and less evolved too. Clay terroir still giving power to the wine. Incense and eucalyptus on the nose and fennel and (really prominent) dark liquorice on the nose and the palate. Intense, grippy but medium bodied. Fills out with air. No hurry with this. Joint group WOTN but for me perhaps the least interesting along with GPL.
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1989 Château L'Evangile 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
76% Merlot, 24% CF.
Very little new oak was used before the property was owned by the Rothschilds (sold in 1990).
What a nose! Clove, cumin, smoke, truffle, leather. Savoury and leathery on the palate too. Comforting incense notes, conjuring images of velvety candlelit rooms. Really interesting. Joint group WOTN
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