1986 Bordeaux and Related 1986 and 1987 Cabernet Merlots

Introduction by Geoff Kelly:

In August 2016 I had the great pleasure of presenting two Library Tastings in the Board Room of the Villa Maria winery, Montgomerie Rd, Mangere. This came about thanks to the kindness of Export Manager Ian Clark, and owner Sir George Fistonich. The other tasting, 1998 Southern Rhone Valley wines, has been reported on here. As planning for this 1986 tasting proceeded, one further pleasure was to have several younger tasters confide to me that this would be their first serious opportunity to assess a Bordeaux First Growth. By 'serious' they meant blind, among other relevant wines. Such moments are very special, to people who love wine.

The tasting turned out to be a great thrill for most participants. The two First Growths were in sparkling form, Gruaud-Larose lived up to its reputation for the vintage, and New Zealand's 1987 Stonyridge Larose from Waiheke Island was clearly and dramatically among the top four wines of the tasting. We used the 1987 vintage for all the New Zealand reds, because the year was much better than 1986, so the local wines had a better chance of competing. The Stonyridge has from the outset been a sensational wine, illustrating for all those with the experience to appreciate it, that New Zealand could indeed make world-class cabernet / merlot reds. At the other end of the scale, another 'famous' Auckland district wine, The Antipodean (which is rarely if ever assessed blind) showed how easy it is to fool New Zealanders in wine matters. As always, the wine rankings were taken while all bottles were still blind, decanted into 12 identical bottles, and presented in numbered bags.

• 1986 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Beautiful modulated mature hue. Cedar nose, NZ acids = good presence in the mouth. Lean body, but a nice purity of fruit. Alive and structured. This is drinking well.

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• 1987 Goldwater Cabernet-Merlot 86 Points

  New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Waiheke Island

  Slightly lifted nose of earth, milk, and cedar. Bright acids, touch of green celery. More intense than the 1986 Grand Puy Lacoste. Guessed NZ.

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• 1986 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Alexander Valley 78 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Nose a bit tired. Light, acid, and mature. Weak in the mouth, lihjt and herbal, but also overripe. Certainly held too long.

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• 1986 Château La Lagune 77 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

  Leathery nose. Softer style, suave texture. Just a bit tired and dull. Guessed Australian.

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• 1987 The Antipodean Farm The Antipodean 60 Points

  New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Matakana

  Intense coffee aroma, but not at all to my taste. Coffee echoes on palate. Acids are out of balance. Weak and lacking in structure, this is an unattractive, lactic wine. Guessed the wine correctly.

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• 1986 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  Quite advanced, visually. Lovely in the mouth, harmonious and very much in line with Bordeaux. Savoury, with a touch of Brett, and not too tannic. Picked as French.

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• 1987 Villa Maria Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Reserve 89 Points

  New Zealand, North Island, Hawke's Bay, Gimblett Gravels

  Slightly dense look. Dusty aromas. Tastes like a Bordeaux. Very, very good in the mouth in the manner of a lighter Bordeaux. Quite high acids, but forward, with cream oak. Guessed L'Arosee 1986.

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• 1986 Château L'Arrosée 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Reticent nose, slightly milky. Excellent intensity and purity of flavour. This is tough to place it could possibly be from NZ. While not as harmonious as many of the other wines in the tasting, this has concentration and purity. Guessed France.

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• 1986 Château Gruaud Larose 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Dense hue. Classic nose. Very classy wine - certainly a fine Bordeaux. Drinking well now, this is Cabenet dominant. Buillt more on fruit than oak, this is tannic but not aggressive, Guessed France.

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• 1986 Château Margaux 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Very young looking. Ver blackcurrant, with a touch if wet oak on the nose. Powerful, focused and tannic palate. This wine needs some time yet in the bottle. Juicy and delicious fruit. Pretty impressive. Guessed USA.

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• 1987 Stonyridge Vineyard Larose 94 Points

  New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Waiheke Island

  Tight and involved nose. Very Merlot in nature. Beautiful oak handling, excellent fruit ripeness. Built in its fruit, this is a ver fine wine. Guessed Bordeaux.

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• 1986 Château Mouton Rothschild 99 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Very dense hue. Classic Bordeaux nose of French oak and cedar. Very tannic, gorgeous balance. The wine is in perfect condition, and is superb. Miles ahead of the other wines in the tasting.

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