French classics at The Clarence

The Clarence Tavern
Tasted Tuesday, April 20, 2021 by NickA with 131 views

Introduction

The first post-lockdown offline!

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 Note)

  • NV Bollinger Champagne PN VZ15 91 Points

    France, Champagne

    Very well-mannered with everything in balance, lots of green (but not sharp) apple, silky texture and (unlike my other experience of this) not obviously BdN. Certainly not too early to start on these, but upside with further aromatic development likely; indeed, this felt less mature than when I first tried the wine BTG last November.

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Flight 2 - Burgundy starters (2 Notes)

  • 2015 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Double-decanted around an hour beforehand, this showed well from the off. I think Stephen Tanzer put it very well when he said this wine was "densely packed, chewy and sweet but not heavy, offering Meursault-like richness to its stone fruit and grilled nut flavors." A real crowd-pleaser and glad I have more, although it didn't offer the verve of a really top-drawer 1er cru.

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  • 2017 Domaine Bernard-Bonin Meursault Les Tillets 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Alongside a Meursault-like Puligny we had a Puligny-like Meursault: mineral, plenty of citrusy zip, and blossomed nicely after a little time in the glass to dampen down the reduction. An excellent, mouthwatering food wine.

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Flight 3 - Bordeaux mains (2 Notes)

  • 2002 Château Léoville Barton 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Superb wine, as was obvious from the very first sniff - "mmm, that's proper Claret". If blind, I doubt I'd have placed it as a 2002 given there was no trace of any lightness of body, but Leoville Barton would probably have been on the agenda as the producer. Excellent balance of acidity, still plenty of fruit, and some graphite and grip to add authority to the experience. I didn't bring this, and promptly bought some.

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  • 1995 Château Magdelaine 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    First time trying Magdelaine and I guess it turned out as I expected - proper old-school! Not a shouty wine, on the cusp of full maturity, with all the leather and cigar box scents and flavours you'd expect. Earthy and had a sense of ease. Deserved more time and attention, and slightly overshadowed by the surprisingly full-bodied Leoville Barton it was served with.

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Flight 4 - Rhone mains (2 Notes)

  • 2006 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Surprisingly similar to the 2009 we drunk at the same time, this was in a good spot - well-resolved but still quite primary. Elegant and silky, and slightly modern, without any obvious blood/iron/pepper/bacon etc. Excellent accompaniment to the food. Certainly plenty of time in hand, but I'm not sure this has the stuffing to make particularly old bones.

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  • 2009 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Surprisingly similar to the 2006 we drank alongside it, this also showed very nicely. Plenty of fruit, completely open although still quite primary, and extremely drinkable. Didn't offer an intellectual experience, but it would be tedious if every wine did.

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Flight 5 - Dessert (1 Note)

  • 1988 Château Raymond-Lafon 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    This was singing tonight, and one of the best Sauternes I've had in a while. Mature Sauternes/Barsac often tends towards an intense marmalade/lime that can be more impressive than delicious, but this wine felt like it had retained its youthful characteristics and then simply grown into them; drinking it was like putting on a perfectly-fitted jacket. Barley sugar and hints of cream, and effortlessly charming.

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Flight 6 - Garden nightcap (2 Notes)

  • NV Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuis 92 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    This was one of the more modest Champagnes in my cellar, and not particularly well-aged (2019 disgorgement), but performed really well. Lemon, honey, attractive mouthfeel, elegant but not austere - quintessentially Champagne, and good value.

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  • 1996 Château Pontet-Canet 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Solidly mature, with a good deal of savour having developed. Quite complex, although as the final bottle of 10, and me not having taken any notes, I'm not going to get any more detailed than that! Really enjoyed by all present despite (it, and we) being drunk in my cold, dark garden.

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Closing

Every wine showed well, the food was tasty, it didn't rain - what more can one ask for?

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