B’s official 50th

The Medlar, London
Tasted Friday, June 4, 2021 by SimonG with 156 views

Introduction

Gougeres

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Goujons of monkfish with baby violet artichokes, coppa, confit datterini, aioli and pickled red onion

Flight 2 (1 Note)

Thinly sliced roast pork loin with salsa verde, fondant potatoes, crisp red onion rings, pecorino and mousseron

  • 2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Magnum. Fresh, almost slightly grassy on the nose. Fresh and elegant. Starts a little floral, but when the glass is topped up it’s more classical and taut with a lovely mineral line. Very persistent. Beautifully poised. Just super, and one of the few Fevre that carries its youthful promise through to maturity without softening or loosing some of that initial energy. ****1/2

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

Roast veal sweetbread with tongue and confit onion, rainbow chard, sorrel and Sherry vinegar caramel

  • 2002 Jean-Jacques Confuron Romanée St. Vivant 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

    Nicely rich. Mellow red fruit. Slightly gamey. Mid red fruit. Very harmonious. A little meatier and a touch more autumnal cf the Rouget, but sweetens and puts on extra weight with air. Very complete. *****

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  • 2002 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Floral, really quite elegant. Lots of gorgeous sweet fruit here. Just so lovely, nuanced and perfectly poised. The complete package. *****

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  • 2002 Domaine René Engel Grands-Echezeaux 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

    Far earthier than the other two. Older, or a stylistic difference? The latter as it turns out. Puts on weight with air, and the fruit does sweeten, but this is earthier and autumnal cf the other two’s redder fruit notes. Excellent, but for me a shade behind, though just about still at *****

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Flight 4 (3 Notes)

Poussin with new season’s garlic, potato galette, green beans and celeriac purée

  • 1989 Château Léoville Las Cases 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Classic Pauillac blackcurrant leaf nose. Restrained power. Fine boned, elegant, classical power with years ahead but lovely now in a slightly chiselled style. ****1/2

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  • 1989 Château Palmer 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Bright, quite lifted. Served blind this feels more St Julien (unlike the Pichon Lalande which was a dead ringer for Palmer). Classic claret. With air this does show a little more violet floral/fragrant, but it’s not the rich expressive wine 89 Palmer usually is. Really lovely in its own right, but just a bit subdued. ****

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  • 1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Far richer than my most recent bottle a couple of years ago, served blind I thought this was 89 Palmer. A little lifted initially with some bratty notes, but settled down to a rich, merlot led violet scented loveliness. This reeks of 89 Palmer, except apparently it’s not. With more air a blackcurrant leaf slight greenness emerges, and it starts to show more classically, but even so this is at the richer end of the PL spectrum. ****1/2

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

Cheese

Apricot financier with pistachios and creme fraiche ice cream

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