From magnum. From some 750s as well as a magnum a year ago, I found it a bit more muted than in its first years after release. This bottle, however, was open and ready, sexy, creamy and fresh, with just that extra kick of complexity missing only more ageing will bring. Already hedonistic, it is a far bigger promise and very likely one of the best 2006s. It should reach a beautiful first peak in about 10 years.
TN: Expressive nose with beautiful citrus, apple, slightly burnt sugar and bakery/yeasty aromas. Quite precise but not super complex nor with the intensity I would like it. On the palate this is beautifully creamy with a very well-integrated acidity which keeps it fresh and light, it’s settled and harmonious with a very fine mousse… all in all a very luxurious structure and clos to perfection (probably a tad more creaminess would have been great but that’s splitting hairs). Same mainly citrus aromas with some bakery notes and a bit of minerality on the palate. Not super layered yet but it should get there. Medium length with a soft and enticing finish with more citrus and bakery notes.
Following a magnum of the 2006 (rated 95) is difficult… This had less of everything. I found it a bit angular but with the acidity well integrated. In addition, it didn’t show much depth at this stage. The signature Comtes personality was still recognizable but overall just good but without any exceptionalism. The structure is there to let this wine age for a few more years in search for more depth. 91/92 pts today.
TN: Medium- expressive nose displaying citrus and shy bread/bakery aromas. On the palate a touch more expressive but without much depth. Some citrus and apple fruit along some bready aromas. The structure is not as uper soft and luxurious as in other vintages, lots of bubbles and a high but fairly well integrated acidity. Medium- length.
Decanting: Not decanted, maybe it could have used some air.
It has been almost a year since I’ve tried this the last time and it keeps improving. More open and expressive, softer structure, better balance,... Already today, this is quite impressive as it is so fresh and airy with a superb delineation. It is slowly getting into the zone but it seems still at least 10 years away from reaching a first peak. I will continue to hold on to my bottles for at least a couple of years. 94/95 points today with potential for more. Maybe with a bit of air, this could have reached the 95+ category already today.
TN: Medium+ expressive nose displaying yellow fruit and lemon, minerality and herbs. Not yet super complex on the nose but with a laser sharp precision. The palate is more impressive with an impeccable structure with superb freshness, a light and airy texture, very fine mousse and good aromatic intensity combined with the aforementioned high precision. Lemon, apple, pear, a strong minerality, some first brioche/bakery/honey aromas appearing. Overall very harmonious and balanced - for the first time for me.
Decanting: PnP, got better with air but couldn’t really following it for too long. At this stage, this needs some air, in my opinion.
Tasted double blind. This was a spectacular bottle and easily deserves a 95+ point rating. Very expressive, intense aromatics, fairly complex with already first tertiary aromas, high precise, creamy yet light structure, good density but no excess weight, good length. We guessed Tuscan Bdx blend but I was quite surprised that this is a 2009 and not more mature due to its completeness. This wine is in a great drinking window right now. While age should certainly add more complexity I’m not 100% convinced that the structure will hold up that well for another 20 years but 10 for sure. This confirms my view that Ornellaia is a clear step up from Sassicaia and that Sassicaia, today, is overrated, especially now that secondary market prices are higher than for Ornellaia (while my personal scores and CTs average ratings for Ornellaia are higher).
TN: Medium+ expressive nose displaying dark red and black fruit, hints black truffles and warm, dry Tuscan earth. Very harmonious and inviting nose with good precision. More expressive and more spectacular on the palate with lots of tension and freshness, a good tannin structure with melted tannins, good density and weight and a beautiful creamy structure. Slightly higher complexity than on the nose with the same ripe but not too ripe dark red and black fruits, warm earth, some hints of forest floor, black truffles, herbs and bushes I would associate with
Decanting: Not decanted, no extensive decanting necessary (at least with this bottle).
Tasted double blind. This was a stunning bottle drinking at its peak and clearly more mature than another bottle a few weeks earlier (rated 97 due to higher precision and tension). At first full of brett aromas, it got clear and pure within just a few minutes. It is perfectly mature, sexy yet elegant, powerful yet gracious and soft. I would have needed a higher complexity and a bit more gravitas for an even higher rating but this easily deserved 95/96 points. Tasting it blind, I thought this to be a Pauillac from the 80s, maybe Latour due to a distinctive nuttiness.
TN: Loads of brett aromas dominate the first few minutes on the nose and palate. Some hate it, I love it. With a bit of time and swirling, however, this completely blows off. Underneath there is a fully mature wine with an expressive nose and palate with well-delineated aromas of ripe dark fruits, minerality, forest floor, herbs and a sexy nuttiness. Melted tannins and a good, perfectly-integrated acidity, a creamy texture make this wine very balanced and complete. Good length with a quite long and slightly expanding finish.
Decanting: Decanted and served right away. Good from the go. This bottle from perfect storage didn’t need any decanting.
Tasted double blind. This showed beautifully mature and well structured, full of tension but without the complexity of the best Dominus vintages. Everybody in the group guessed this to be a Bordeaux from the 80s, my guess was a structured 86 from Pauillac. It is drinking very well today and can develop for a few more years.
TN: Medium expressive, cool and fresh on the nose and palate with crushed rocks, herbs, leather and hints of barnyard all circling around a slightly timid but pure dark fruit core. Structured with noticeable tannins, a high but well integrated acidity, lots of tension, a classic, fresh and slightly creamy texture and feel and with medium length.
Decanting: Not decanted but this bottle could have needed a bit of air.
Tasted double blind. Again, 95% of the group guessed this wine to be a well matured, high-end Bordeaux from a good vintage. There might be some extra sweetness giving it away in one or the other bottle of this legend. But not this bottle which likely has been matured in a very cold cellar and therefore was the least developed 94 I had so far. Far away from it’s peak it had a towering structure and not yet all the tertiary complexity the best bottles have.
TN: Medium+ expressive nose with lots of ripe but pure and fresh dark berries along some red berries, herbs and minerality. Very precise although not fully expressive. Same picture on the palate where all the fresh dark fruit and the strong minerality component fight for attention. Almost no tertiary aromas. A wall of well-rounded tannins, a high but very-well integrated acidity, the texture and feel is light and fresh with not the same amount of creaminess the more mature bottles show. The finish is long and slightly expanding. All in all, already quite alluring but more promise than hedonistic dreamland as of yet.
Decanting: Usually no extensive decanting is needed, this (non-decanted) bottle could have used a bit of air.
Tasted double blind. What a stunning wine this was: although young and without much tertiary development, it already shows so complex and quite open. Yes, it is still a very structured wine but it is far away from the stubbornness of many 2005s. My guess was high-end Bdx from 1996, not yet fully ready and mature but already quite nice to drink. When revealed, I was even more surprised seeing a Latour as these wines usually need even more time than all others. Such a big promise and definitely a candidate for perfection in 15, 20, 25 years.
TN: Dark brooding nose and palate. Still, there are already so many layers of aromas shine trough. Four layers of minerality, three layers of fruit, earth, forest floor, herbs. Everything is delivered in UHD. The structure is impeccable with a wall of very fine tannins, a high but perfectly integrated acidity an already slightly creamy texture, a light feel with no excess weight (…in general there is no excess of anything here), a long and massively expanding finish and a superb balance and harmony. Quite perfect already today but one can only imagine how good this will be once it hits maturity (softer, more complex, creamier)-
Decanting: Splash decanted, pnp. Even without decanting this shined bright, still I would give it a sold 2-4 hours in the decanter today. It improved in the glass by the minute.
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 95 Points
France, Champagne
From magnum. From some 750s as well as a magnum a year ago, I found it a bit more muted than in its first years after release. This bottle, however, was open and ready, sexy, creamy and fresh, with just that extra kick of complexity missing only more ageing will bring. Already hedonistic, it is a far bigger promise and very likely one of the best 2006s. It should reach a beautiful first peak in about 10 years.
TN: Expressive nose with beautiful citrus, apple, slightly burnt sugar and bakery/yeasty aromas. Quite precise but not super complex nor with the intensity I would like it. On the palate this is beautifully creamy with a very well-integrated acidity which keeps it fresh and light, it’s settled and harmonious with a very fine mousse… all in all a very luxurious structure and clos to perfection (probably a tad more creaminess would have been great but that’s splitting hairs). Same mainly citrus aromas with some bakery notes and a bit of minerality on the palate. Not super layered yet but it should get there. Medium length with a soft and enticing finish with more citrus and bakery notes.
Decanting: Not decanted, followed over 1h+
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2000 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 92 Points
France, Champagne
Following a magnum of the 2006 (rated 95) is difficult… This had less of everything. I found it a bit angular but with the acidity well integrated. In addition, it didn’t show much depth at this stage. The signature Comtes personality was still recognizable but overall just good but without any exceptionalism. The structure is there to let this wine age for a few more years in search for more depth. 91/92 pts today.
TN: Medium- expressive nose displaying citrus and shy bread/bakery aromas. On the palate a touch more expressive but without much depth. Some citrus and apple fruit along some bready aromas. The structure is not as uper soft and luxurious as in other vintages, lots of bubbles and a high but fairly well integrated acidity. Medium- length.
Decanting: Not decanted, maybe it could have used some air.
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2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne 94 Points
France, Champagne
It has been almost a year since I’ve tried this the last time and it keeps improving. More open and expressive, softer structure, better balance,... Already today, this is quite impressive as it is so fresh and airy with a superb delineation. It is slowly getting into the zone but it seems still at least 10 years away from reaching a first peak. I will continue to hold on to my bottles for at least a couple of years. 94/95 points today with potential for more. Maybe with a bit of air, this could have reached the 95+ category already today.
TN: Medium+ expressive nose displaying yellow fruit and lemon, minerality and herbs. Not yet super complex on the nose but with a laser sharp precision. The palate is more impressive with an impeccable structure with superb freshness, a light and airy texture, very fine mousse and good aromatic intensity combined with the aforementioned high precision. Lemon, apple, pear, a strong minerality, some first brioche/bakery/honey aromas appearing. Overall very harmonious and balanced - for the first time for me.
Decanting: PnP, got better with air but couldn’t really following it for too long. At this stage, this needs some air, in my opinion.
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2009 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 95 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore
Tasted double blind. This was a spectacular bottle and easily deserves a 95+ point rating. Very expressive, intense aromatics, fairly complex with already first tertiary aromas, high precise, creamy yet light structure, good density but no excess weight, good length. We guessed Tuscan Bdx blend but I was quite surprised that this is a 2009 and not more mature due to its completeness. This wine is in a great drinking window right now. While age should certainly add more complexity I’m not 100% convinced that the structure will hold up that well for another 20 years but 10 for sure. This confirms my view that Ornellaia is a clear step up from Sassicaia and that Sassicaia, today, is overrated, especially now that secondary market prices are higher than for Ornellaia (while my personal scores and CTs average ratings for Ornellaia are higher).
TN: Medium+ expressive nose displaying dark red and black fruit, hints black truffles and warm, dry Tuscan earth. Very harmonious and inviting nose with good precision. More expressive and more spectacular on the palate with lots of tension and freshness, a good tannin structure with melted tannins, good density and weight and a beautiful creamy structure. Slightly higher complexity than on the nose with the same ripe but not too ripe dark red and black fruits, warm earth, some hints of forest floor, black truffles, herbs and bushes I would associate with
Decanting: Not decanted, no extensive decanting necessary (at least with this bottle).
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1982 Château Gruaud Larose 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Tasted double blind. This was a stunning bottle drinking at its peak and clearly more mature than another bottle a few weeks earlier (rated 97 due to higher precision and tension). At first full of brett aromas, it got clear and pure within just a few minutes. It is perfectly mature, sexy yet elegant, powerful yet gracious and soft. I would have needed a higher complexity and a bit more gravitas for an even higher rating but this easily deserved 95/96 points. Tasting it blind, I thought this to be a Pauillac from the 80s, maybe Latour due to a distinctive nuttiness.
TN: Loads of brett aromas dominate the first few minutes on the nose and palate. Some hate it, I love it. With a bit of time and swirling, however, this completely blows off. Underneath there is a fully mature wine with an expressive nose and palate with well-delineated aromas of ripe dark fruits, minerality, forest floor, herbs and a sexy nuttiness. Melted tannins and a good, perfectly-integrated acidity, a creamy texture make this wine very balanced and complete. Good length with a quite long and slightly expanding finish.
Decanting: Decanted and served right away. Good from the go. This bottle from perfect storage didn’t need any decanting.
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1984 Dominus Estate 93 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Tasted double blind. This showed beautifully mature and well structured, full of tension but without the complexity of the best Dominus vintages. Everybody in the group guessed this to be a Bordeaux from the 80s, my guess was a structured 86 from Pauillac. It is drinking very well today and can develop for a few more years.
TN: Medium expressive, cool and fresh on the nose and palate with crushed rocks, herbs, leather and hints of barnyard all circling around a slightly timid but pure dark fruit core. Structured with noticeable tannins, a high but well integrated acidity, lots of tension, a classic, fresh and slightly creamy texture and feel and with medium length.
Decanting: Not decanted but this bottle could have needed a bit of air.
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1994 Dominus Estate Napanook Vineyard 95 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Tasted double blind. Again, 95% of the group guessed this wine to be a well matured, high-end Bordeaux from a good vintage. There might be some extra sweetness giving it away in one or the other bottle of this legend. But not this bottle which likely has been matured in a very cold cellar and therefore was the least developed 94 I had so far. Far away from it’s peak it had a towering structure and not yet all the tertiary complexity the best bottles have.
TN: Medium+ expressive nose with lots of ripe but pure and fresh dark berries along some red berries, herbs and minerality. Very precise although not fully expressive. Same picture on the palate where all the fresh dark fruit and the strong minerality component fight for attention. Almost no tertiary aromas. A wall of well-rounded tannins, a high but very-well integrated acidity, the texture and feel is light and fresh with not the same amount of creaminess the more mature bottles show. The finish is long and slightly expanding. All in all, already quite alluring but more promise than hedonistic dreamland as of yet.
Decanting: Usually no extensive decanting is needed, this (non-decanted) bottle could have used a bit of air.
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2005 Château Latour Grand Vin 97 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Tasted double blind. What a stunning wine this was: although young and without much tertiary development, it already shows so complex and quite open. Yes, it is still a very structured wine but it is far away from the stubbornness of many 2005s. My guess was high-end Bdx from 1996, not yet fully ready and mature but already quite nice to drink. When revealed, I was even more surprised seeing a Latour as these wines usually need even more time than all others. Such a big promise and definitely a candidate for perfection in 15, 20, 25 years.
TN: Dark brooding nose and palate. Still, there are already so many layers of aromas shine trough. Four layers of minerality, three layers of fruit, earth, forest floor, herbs. Everything is delivered in UHD. The structure is impeccable with a wall of very fine tannins, a high but perfectly integrated acidity an already slightly creamy texture, a light feel with no excess weight (…in general there is no excess of anything here), a long and massively expanding finish and a superb balance and harmony. Quite perfect already today but one can only imagine how good this will be once it hits maturity (softer, more complex, creamier)-
Decanting: Splash decanted, pnp. Even without decanting this shined bright, still I would give it a sold 2-4 hours in the decanter today. It improved in the glass by the minute.
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