1990s Burgundy, second attempt

Noize
Tasted Thursday, November 18, 2021 by NickA with 189 views

Flight 1 - Gougeres (1 Note)

Flight 2 - Fish goujons, gribiche sauce and fennel (2 Notes)

  • 1991 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Gorgeous wine. Nose relatively complex and hard to describe adequately, with the cedary vestiges of the barrel ageing and some more volatile notes of polish giving the impression of an exotic wooden chest. Really filled the mouth with flavour: quite sweet (by turns butterscotch, sweet red fruit and candyfloss) then a very long finish. Delicious!

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  • 1999 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    CT note #2000! More of a subtle nose than the Latour, especially at first, with spearmint and herbs. Much more peppy and assertive on the palate, with lemon and ginger, a hint of rancio and salinity reflecting its age, and then back to subtlety on the finish. Kept improving with air - very enjoyable.

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Flight 3 - Roasted pork chop, beetroot and chicory tart, coppa (3 Notes)

  • 1993 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Excellent wine that impressed from the first sniff, despite an appalling cork that (according to the sommelier) could have been pushed in easily by hand. The aromas soared out the glass for the first 5-10 minutes, very exotic with eastern spice and rose petal, then settled down and became increasingly frail and leafy, with some strawberry sherbert, but certainly never collapsed altogether. Slightly sharp on the palate initially, but increasingly complex with air: thyme, strawberry candy, green fruit pastille and a dusky muskiness. Vibrant and crowd-pleasing.

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  • 1995 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Not especially friendly at first: quite tart and reticent compared to its flight-mates. Air really helped though, with raspberry and floral notes showing themselves on the volatile nose, and more depth on the palate too; the relatively high acidity remained a constant, but was accompanied by sweet raisin, an earthiness, and surprisingly persistent tannin. Loads of life left, and excellent with the food.

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  • 1999 Nicolas Potel Volnay 1er Cru Pitures 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    I found this sufficiently bonfirey that I might blame reduction, although many/all of the others at dinner didn't find this a problem. Black truffle, mothballs, dark fruit. Rather serious and with good length. I kept wondering if this would come out of its shell, but that didn't quite happen.

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Flight 4 - Slow-cooked lamb shoulder, pomme puree, carrot (4 Notes)

  • 1995 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

    Sweetly charming and ethereal on the nose, with a touch of spice and some cherry. Juicy orange and some truffle on the palate, bittersweet and seamless. Impeccably manufactured, but rather than strutting its stuff it seemed content to settle into a comfortable chair and observe what the other wines in the flight had to offer. May well be some upside as it filled out a little more with air.

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  • 1998 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    Wasn't clear in advance whether this wine would be a better match for the other grand crus or the other Côte de Beaune wines; we gave it a chance to stand with the big guns and it acquitted itself excellently (despite the occasional hint of TCA or something reminiscent of it). Mature, gamey nose with undergrowth. Dark on the palate, quite punchy acidity, just a lovely level of maturity - really pleasurable.

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  • 1999 Nicolas Potel Romanée St. Vivant 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

    Mature, elegant and lifted on the nose, with deep strawberry fruit, damp earth, undergrowrth and an overall sense of brightness - exactly what I'd want. Bright and juicy on the palate, with more strawberry. Wonderfully savoury with the food and a tasty truffley finish. Yum.

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  • 1999 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

    This was quite a few people's WOTN, but didn't capture my imagination. Mineral, dark and angular, like a movie bad guy. Did open up a little, with more florality and some bright acidity, but not enough to sway me. Impressive, sure, but not winsome.

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Flight 5 - Pear rice pudding (1 Note)

  • 1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Haut-Lieu 93 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Aromatic, with cooked mango, toffee apple and rosemary tarte tatin - mmm. Didn't get any wet wool/lanolin, which I think was probably for the best. The palate was gentle, pure and beautifully herbal, with hints of chillied pineapple and tight acidity. Very good, tons of life left, and a nice change of pace from Sauternes, but not screamingly exciting.

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Closing

Hit upon hit! Lovely dinner

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