Brunello with some roses

A Brunello night with some roses at SSG that made me realise I don't really like Brunellos in general as they all showed a rather heavy hand with the exception of the Biondi-Santi. First time trying the suckling pig at SSG, very good but also very small. But otherwise the food never disappoints here.

• 2020 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Chavignol Rosé

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

  First time trying a Cotat and very impressed. Fresh strawberries, lots of crisp orchard fruit. Deep flavour with a bit of residual sugar. Can see why they say that this can age forever.

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• NV De Sousa et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée des Caudalies Brut Rosé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Disgorged in 2007. Others didn't like this at the start and preferred with some air but I thought this was an impressive drink from the outset. Still vibrant for its age, rich style of champagne without being overly sweet, very easy to drink. More fruit-forward, less structure sort of wine.

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• 2012 Olivier Horiot Champagne Sève Rosé de Saignée En Barmont Les Riceys

  France, Champagne

  Not the biggest fan of saignée rose but this got much better with air. Round and ripe that belied the zero dosage with good intensity of red fruit. Made in an oxidative, robust style that needed food to show its best.

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• 2007 Tenuta Greppo (Biondi-Santi) Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Everyone managed to arrive at a warm vintage and a good producer for this. Very supple and bright red fruit with soft tannins but a little closed at the moment.

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• 2011 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino Fornace

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  A little funky at the start but blew off after a couple of hours. Some commented this was more like a Burgundy than a Brunello on the nose, but the only giveaway was the rather firm and rustic tannins. Judging from the price jumps in recent vintages, I think they might have refined their style to become a more elegant one compared to this showing.

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• 2012 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  A modernist Brunello with the darkest hue of all and most vanilla on the nose. I preferred this on the first pour as it had more balance, compared to the final sips where the alcohol started to show. Still needs time for the oak to completely integrate.

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• 2012 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Another modern Brunello. This had greater depth than the Il Poggione, but showed the warmth of the vintage more at the same time. Firm tannins but the fruit balanced it out on this one, very good.

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• 2004 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese

  Germany, Rheingau

  Preferred this on pop and pour when it was more balanced and the exceptional length was more obvious. With air it became sweeter and a little more cloying, but nonetheless this was an outstanding, powerful wine.

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