ESTG does Piedmont

Sigh, in a world of Omicron we are reduced to a small group, testing in advance, outdoors in a tent with space heaters. It actually worked out really well, thank you Barry & Gina!

We started with a couple of domestic examples to whet the palate.

• NV Shiba Wichern Auxerrois Willamette Sparky

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  Sort of meh. Nice weight but lacks a bit of acid. Left us all a bit wanting.

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• 2019 Woodward Canyon Barbera Estate

  USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

  Seems somewhat oaked. Distractingly sweet on the approach but with surprisingly nice fruit, tart, red, cherry, fresh on the finish.

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We started with the lighter, more oddball wines. What a lovely and quirky flight!

• 2020 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Verduno Pelaverga

  Such light color, vibrant, screaming cherry, celery(?!?!?), wild, stalky, gaining vibrancy, rather wild and rambunctious. Really quite interesting in a savage way.

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• 2015 Il Chiosso Gattinara Riserva

  Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara

  Explosive aromatics, mindblowing, this is everything Lyle Fass promised and even more. Utterly vibrant but chewy, stunning structure starts to blossom as this airs, so pure and aromatic, a really special wine!

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• 2007 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Strong notes of VA at first, seemingly quite brawny for a Barbaresco, but the reality is that this is just quite heavy relative to the Verduno Pelaverga and Gattinara in the same flight. When tasted alone it is quite classic with tar and roses, not the most precise Barbaresco but largely quite classic.

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We finished more classically, a nice trio of Baroli!

• 2005 Castello di Verduno Barolo Monvigliero

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Strong ashtray notes on the initial approach but actually rather pretty on the palate, lean, a little austere, but the flipside is that it is taut, energetic, quite edgy.

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• 2007 Fratelli Revello Barolo Vigna Gattera

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Mmm, love the aromatics, maybe modern, a deep and saturated palate, with a weird note, rhubard?, green peppercorn? something quite sharp, lots of oak but also pine and overall a really proper weight and intensity. Modern but very compelling.

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• 2012 Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d'Alba

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Mmmm, juicy, nice structure, some caramel on the nose but overall quite enjoyable.

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