LC14. Bottle 2394/3300. The nose has a nice bit of red fruit here, though it seems to be drying a little bit. Slightly mulchy, which is interesting. On the palate, there's not much breadth here; linear with high acidity and some minerality, but lacking fullness and concentration. The fruit profile is along the lines of sour red fruits, with cranberry particularly noticeable (because of all the acid?). I think this bottle may well have been better younger with more freshness to it. For the laughable price it commands on the secondary market, this is a hard pass from me.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
An absolutely stunning bottle of "lowly" white Burgundy, from the ultimate premox vintage, but fresh as a daisy. In fact, this uncharacteristically (for Carillon) has a reductive note on the nose, but it's not the type from copious sulphur use. A bit of a savoury/umami note on the nose that you can find in old white Burgundies from this era. The palate still shows white fruit and plenty of taut acidity. In fact, this needed time to loosen up, and in fact grew in scale over the course of the night. Hard to imagine this being but a villages wine.
Extremely taut. The nose is tart citrus and saline, but it feels like there's more fruit behind it waiting to emerge, and even though air helped to dislodge some of it, this is a wine that is still obviously very much closed up. More a wine of potential than one worth opening now; for drinking today though, I preferred the 2014 Dauvissat Vaillons alongside.
Foil top. Much better than my previous experiences with this wine; clearly Chablisien with plenty of salinity and tart citrus, with some chalky underpinnings. What I liked here was that there was more of a fruit profile to round out the wine, giving this a less austere feeling on the palate than the really coiled-up Dauvissat-Camus Clos alongside.
This started out ok, but gradually got better and more expansive with air. A long time ago, I used to wonder what a GG would taste like if it had maybe 15-20 g/L of residual sugar, and I think this bottle is kind of what the answer would be. The nose doesn't really show any particular characteristic; in fact it just smells like riesling. In fact, that's really what this wine feels like to me -- it's just quintessential riesling. There's generous sweetness thanks to both the expansive extract and fruit as well as the actual sugar that's left in the wine. Minerally, pure, and crystalline. Admittedly atypical and a bit of a curiosity, but also a fascinating study in what riesling can do.
NV Jérôme Prévost La Closerie Fac-Simile 88 Points
France, Champagne
LC14. Bottle 2394/3300. The nose has a nice bit of red fruit here, though it seems to be drying a little bit. Slightly mulchy, which is interesting. On the palate, there's not much breadth here; linear with high acidity and some minerality, but lacking fullness and concentration. The fruit profile is along the lines of sour red fruits, with cranberry particularly noticeable (because of all the acid?). I think this bottle may well have been better younger with more freshness to it. For the laughable price it commands on the secondary market, this is a hard pass from me.
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1996 Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
An absolutely stunning bottle of "lowly" white Burgundy, from the ultimate premox vintage, but fresh as a daisy. In fact, this uncharacteristically (for Carillon) has a reductive note on the nose, but it's not the type from copious sulphur use. A bit of a savoury/umami note on the nose that you can find in old white Burgundies from this era. The palate still shows white fruit and plenty of taut acidity. In fact, this needed time to loosen up, and in fact grew in scale over the course of the night. Hard to imagine this being but a villages wine.
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2014 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Extremely taut. The nose is tart citrus and saline, but it feels like there's more fruit behind it waiting to emerge, and even though air helped to dislodge some of it, this is a wine that is still obviously very much closed up. More a wine of potential than one worth opening now; for drinking today though, I preferred the 2014 Dauvissat Vaillons alongside.
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2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Foil top. Much better than my previous experiences with this wine; clearly Chablisien with plenty of salinity and tart citrus, with some chalky underpinnings. What I liked here was that there was more of a fruit profile to round out the wine, giving this a less austere feeling on the palate than the really coiled-up Dauvissat-Camus Clos alongside.
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2016 Weingut Keller Hipping Riesling Grosse Lage HM 95 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
This started out ok, but gradually got better and more expansive with air. A long time ago, I used to wonder what a GG would taste like if it had maybe 15-20 g/L of residual sugar, and I think this bottle is kind of what the answer would be. The nose doesn't really show any particular characteristic; in fact it just smells like riesling. In fact, that's really what this wine feels like to me -- it's just quintessential riesling. There's generous sweetness thanks to both the expansive extract and fruit as well as the actual sugar that's left in the wine. Minerally, pure, and crystalline. Admittedly atypical and a bit of a curiosity, but also a fascinating study in what riesling can do.
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