Richter Magnum Rarity Tasting

Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95).

Additional observations:
i/ the 1945s were in pretty poor condition with the structure having descended into pure acidity and 2 out of 4 even past the expiry date (Nenin, Palmer). The 1947s were a bit better on average, but this mostly thanks to a really solid Cos d’Estournel (94).
ii/ The 50ies knocked it out of the park with excellent 1955s and strong 1959s, of particular mention are Cheval Blanc 1955 and Ausone 1959. Generally, these wines were structured with fresh acidity and impressive aromatic complexity.

Cheval Blanc 1955 - 98
Ausone 1959 – 97
Haut-Brion 1955 – 95
Climens 1929 – 95
Torbreck RunRig 2004 – 95
Cos d’Estournel 1947 – 94
Beychevelle 1959 – 94
Vinattieri 1986 – 93
Coutet 1949 – 93
Pichon Lalande 1947 – 92
Climens 1953 – 92
Gaffeliere Naudes 1959 – 92
Margaux 1955 - 90
Gruaud Larose 1945 – 89
Margaux 1945 – 88
Beychevelle 1947 – 87
Palmer 1945 – 75
Nenin 1945 – 75
Vega Sicilia Unico 1968 - NR

• 1945 Château Nenin 75 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Came across corked initially with cardboard and cellar must. But there was some nice intensity to it with a ripe fruit and some savory overlays. Unfortunately while probably not corked after all, this was end of life with pretty much only acidity left on the palate.

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• 1945 Château Margaux 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  This had a malty feel to it. Fine aging notes of sous-bois, leather, tobacco and dried leaves surrounding a nice and refined red fruit core. Some smoke and savory notes add to the bouquet. But rather low intensity and palate thinned down, mostly leaving acidity. The little bit of structure that was left helped to keep things together just enough to make it work.

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• 1945 Château Gruaud Larose 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Aging notes of leather and earth, tobacco provide for a nice level of details. There is even a layer of dried herbs and a surprisingly sweet fruit. However, the palate has dwindled to consist of mostly acidity. That said, there is some tension left which adds character.

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• 1947 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Amazing intensity here with blue berry fruit. A thick layer of herbal or rather vegetal aromas add good splash of freshness to the bouquet. Espresso, dark chocolate and also tobacco. The intensity drops quickly with aeration and aromatics change a bit, reducing the vegetal angle. Palate is juicy still even if only by a whisker, but overall rather acidic with a slightly rustic and austere finish.

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• 1947 Château Beychevelle 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  There is an intriguing sweetness to the red berry fruit. Only light aging notes of leather, cedar wood and tobacco. This has its allure, but does come across a bit tired. Palate with nice fruit, but mostly acidic with otherwise little structure left.

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• 1947 Château Cos d'Estournel 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Creamy with milk chocolate, defined and nicely ripe red cherry and blueberry fruit, just a whiff of cedar wood and spice. Amazingly sweet and seductive with expanding intensity. Elegant yet still powerful. Palate still has some structure left and leaning much less towards acidity than others in the vintage.

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• 1959 Château Beychevelle 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Nice intensity with a precise red fruit, albeit with a slightly unripe and greenish touch. Light wooden notes and sweet spice add to the appeal. Super fresh palate with vibrant acidity. Keeps getting better and better with aeration.

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• 1959 Château La Gaffelière Naudes 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Caramel notes as the most distinctive feature. Some meaty flavours, a slightly over-ripe and Porty fruit, a bit of spice, leather and also sweet notes. Palate feels off-balance with slightly green and coarse tannin, but otherwise impressive how much structure is still left.

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• 1959 Château Ausone 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Clear-cut aging notes of smoke, leather and coal. A medicinal touch, dark cherry and raspberry fruit. After-eight, coca cola, black chocolate, pipe tobacco, roibosch tea. Nice intensity and outstanding complexity. The palate boasts fresh acidity with a solid structure. Incredibly elegant and versatile, fully alive and kicking.

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• 1955 Château Margaux 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  The signature roasted coffee beans present even 65 years after bottling. Red cherry fruit, but a touch unripe and green. Herbal and spice overlays and chocolate. Overall, however, the bouquet was rather dusty and pretty herbal. Palate is still alive but with mostly acidity left. Had the 1955 a few months ago from 75cl bottle with consistent notes and score.

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• 1955 Château Cheval Blanc 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Coffee, black tea and refined red cherry fruit, ripe and sweet in style. A bit of sous-bois, a bit of leather as well as a spicey overlay. Adding spearmint, eucalyptus and black currant over time. Incredibly layered and detailed. Palate has a soft, statin texture with a firm structure, tangible yet soft tannin. The heights Cheval can achieve 65 years after bottling is just mind-blowing here.

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• 1955 Château Haut-Brion 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Layered aging notes, espresso and roasted coffee beans, dark and red cherry and leather. Palate has good depth and tension with a long finish. Voluptuous and drinking really well now.

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• 1968 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Flawed

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  A noticeable und indisputable cork stain and hence hard to dissect anything underneath the cardboard notes. But on balance appeared pretty minty with a nicely ripe fruit. Otherwise pretty fresh and juicy on the palate.

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• 1986 Vinattieri Ticinesi Merlot Vinattieri 93 Points

  Switzerland, Ticino

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Lots of mint and eucalyptus, well-defined red currant fruit, a pinch of sweet spice, licorice and green bell pepper. Fresh acidity, pretty lean overall but in good balance. This was mistaken for a Martha‘s Vineyard by the group and I was one of them.

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• 1945 Château Palmer 75 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Beef juice mostly, sadly, but not without some elements of spice and perfume hinting at what could have been... Palate was just barely alive.

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• 1949 Château Coutet Barsac 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Caramel and almonds, a fresh green herbal layer, freshly baked bread and herbal tea. The palate benefits from nice acidity providing freshness, but the aromatic intensity drops off quite significantly.

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• 1953 Château Climens 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Rather low intensity. Candid peach and apricot, bee wax and honey, glazed stone fruit and grilled pineapple. There is however really nice aromatic detail there. Palate is less impressive with overly prominent acidity. In direct comparison, this came in well below the 1929 Climens.

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• 1929 Château Climens 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  Reminds you of old cognac or rum with burned sugar cane, almonds and other nuts, toast, candid fig and plum, a bit of spice, tobacco and black tea. A nicely creamy texture still on the palate with plenty of sweetness and a finale boasting a long butterscotch aftertaste. A beautiful Climens, maybe not as precise and fresh as the best of the best, but also not far off. Easily beating the 1953 next to it.

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• 2004 Torbreck RunRig 95 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Tasted at a grand magnum rarities tasting hosted by a merchant and collector in Zurich. Most bottles were Bordeaux from the 40s and 50s. The top 3 wines 1. Cheval Blanc 1955 (98), 2. Ausone 1959 (97), 3. Haut-Brion 1955 (95). Full list of wines sorted by score and additional observations included in the tasting story.
  
  Tasting notes
  This was the table wine to go along with the dinner and served from double-magnum. Extracted, raisin-like fruit of dark cherry and candid plum, plenty of Asian spice and gingerbread and olive tapenade. A bit of earth and leather begin to add a dimension of aging notes to it. This did feel a bit soy sauce like here and there, I have to admit, which got me worried for a second as I’ve had this experience with 2004 Aussie Shiraz before (Astralis) – but alas nothing that stuck. The palate explodes with intensity, all levers on max and it is truly a miracle how this manages to maintain an impeccable balance (which it does!), a round feel and velvety texture with acidity, alcohol, tannins and aromas all in overdrive. This is an adrenaline shot that can bring you back from the dead.

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