4 mixed wines and then war-time vintage wines

London
Tasted Wednesday, October 27, 1993 by rikipedia with 40 views

Flight 1 - Spanish Red (2 Notes)

  • 1988 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Ygay Reserva 88 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

    Oak and blackcurrants greet the nose, followed by vanilla pod. Relatively closed, the entry has lively acidity and tart blackcurrants and feels a little hollow and watery (poorer crop?) with some oak infusions.
    Very much a youthful vibrancy, the mid-palate offers some cherry notes and plenty of fine grained by firm tannin. Lacks some mid-palate.

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  • 1981 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Reserva 90 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    Dark deep garnet running to a mahogany rim. Fairly intense bouquet, the aromas are red cherries and plums with blackberries and blackcurrant, cedar and cigar box open to oak spice.
    Full-bodied, the entry is soft with ripe berry fruits, dry balanced acidity and chalky tannins. Medium alcohol, there is plenty of fruit and the finish is domainted by spice and a twist of pepper. Long, smooth and most enjoyable! touch of mineral on the finish

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Flight 2 - Pinot and Chardonnay (2 Notes)

  • 1991 Kumeu River Chardonnay Estate 87 Points

    New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu

    12.5% alc.Some toast and nuts reminiscent of Meursault. Entry is cedar, juicy peach towards exotic fruits with apricot, dry with sprightly acidity, rounded in the mid-palate, fairly complex with that more leesy aspect of fuller-Burgundy wines and some spice. Traces of trying to be elegant but seems a more fleshy approachable style. Pricey wine!

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  • 1989 Domaine Georges Clerget Chambolle-Musigny 87 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

    Very complex nose with a cigar box, damson, prunes and a hint of nut. Intense but feels a little evolved. The palate is balanced with fresh acidity, soft tannins and medium bodied. Pepper and cigar box yields to a high spiky alcohol yet retain a very long finish. Fairly broad the wine has a chewy, almost bitter aftertaste showing stewed plums and damsons. Tricky to assess.

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Flight 3 - War-time Vintages - Sparkling & Red (4 Notes)

  • 1943 Pommery Champagne Brut Millésimé 86 Points

    France, Champagne

    Very slight pétillance (main bubbles long since departed) with old yellow-gold colour. A deep rich yeasty bouquet filled with brandy notes, ripe flavours, almost like sweet wine. A sort of still heavier styled Burgundy yet with fresh acidity. A curiosity more than anything. £100/bottle

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  • 1945 Louis Latour Beaujolais-Villages 81 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages

    Cloudy, brown-red with a musty bouquet of figs, liquorice and sour apricots. Didn't expect or promise a lot, but the palate had a surprising youthful freshness, elegance and lovely weight in the mouth that worked nicely. Dry with some meat stock and roasted meat with a long finish.

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  • 1945 Domaine Jaboulet-Vercherre Châteauneuf-du-Pape 75 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Apparently large negoçiants that initially had no link to wine. Grenache-based, the wine is quite musty with a caramel note on the palate, rich but with little fruit. The mid-palate is very sweet and bold, almost port-like. A suggestion of an arrested or stuck fermentation, given the noted RS on the finish? Or alternatively slightly fortified, hence the port-like raisin and lifted tones?

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  • 1942 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 96 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    £175. Released in 1983 - top year in its day. Spent 25-30 years in American oak; 70 Tempranillo, 13 Mazuelo, 12 Garnacha and 5 Graciano. Garnet mahogany with a bright orange rim. Beautiful nose of dark chocolate tilled soil that on entry has a full body, plenty of fruit, intense with refined yet semi-aggressive tannins. Slightly lean or just an elegant wine, it seems well-knit and, at this stage, in perfect nick. A real find!

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Flight 4 - War-time Vintages - Sweet (2 Notes)

  • 1945 Eugen Wirth Niersteiner Fritzenhölle Riesling Goldbeerenauslese 95 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    £100. Florescent yellow with a bright, fresh nose showing spice and lemon zest. Typical racy acidity, clean and pure showing little signs of the age it is. A delicate wine with some botrytis but not as complex as expected. Long winding finish, some richness, glassy texture. RS is present but well integrated behind the zesty acidity.

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  • 1945 Château Filhot 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Deuxieme cru with lots of young vines in the blend.
    Amber gold runs to a greeny-yellow edge indicating some serious age.
    Honeyed bouquet showing quince and orange/lemon marmalade.
    Richly opulent on entry, the wine feels quite alcoholic, giving a spicy impression yet is extraordinary. Amazing complexity with plenty of botrytis, ripe lemons, and stewed apricots underscored by a linear fresh acidity. Elegant, well-preserved freshness that integrates its noted sweetness; the finish showcases tangerine, spice, and a persistent length. Arguably fading a tad but privilege to have.

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