2020 Kabinetts with Howard Ripley

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Tasted Tuesday, June 29, 2021 by NickA with 137 views

Introduction

2020 was a very precocious year until July, when there was very little rain until September, and consistent warmth. Young vines suffered from the drought.

Flight 1 (8 Notes)

  • 2020 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Along the Ruwer. Steep SE-facing vineyard on classic blue slate. A monopole of Maximin Grunhaus. 7.5%.

    Bright, floral nose, with gooseberry and grassy greenness. Nice feel in the mouth – fresh, playful. Well-balanced, perfect ripeness. Long, mealy finish. Good vintage typicity, very moreish. Really lovely

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  • 2020 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Haag wines are subtle and elegant. In the middle Mosel, SE-facing. More blue slate. 8.5%.

    A brighter nose than #1, less fully-formed (more sponti). More tropical, some rose and banana - pretty big. Generous style even though it has less RS than wine #1 (or any of the others tonight). Thick mid-palate, with blackcurrant leaf. Saline, bitter Campari-esque finish and a mineral grip. Punchy and sophisticated!

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  • 2020 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 90 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Again from the Middle Mosel, but SW-facing. Again blue slate, 7.5%.

    Nose seems unformed, if bright. Lacking in charm at this stage. Herbal savour, and some flowers coming through with air. Edgy and aggressive, and a short finish – not integrated yet.

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  • 2020 Weiser-Künstler Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Kabinett 91 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    SW-facing site on the Mosel, again on blue slate. 8%.

    Powerful wine! Lots of concentration from 100yo vines. Quite different – more savour and more honey. Aromatic, slightly lactic nose, with some green vegetation and a tropical undertone. Quite full in the mouth, tropical at first, then moving into lime and clementine and a creamy midpalate. Marmitey finish. Needs time for the sweetness and acidity to marry up fully.

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  • 2020 Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett 93 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    SW-facing. Blue slate. 8.5%

    Sensational soft, rounded nose; really enamouring, relatively mature, with some rose. Thick lemon/lime scent and flavour. Lots of mineral drive. Really yummy – juicy citrus fruit, lemon sherbert. Really fills and coats the mouth. Little flecks of zippy acidity pep things up. Some cream cheese and chive savour towards the finish...!

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  • 2020 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck Riesling Kabinett 92 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Most of their holdings are up in the hills rather than along the river. S-facing, high-altitude, again blue slate but including iron and quartzite (which promotes spiciness). 7.5%

    Reductive, stinky nose at first, but there’s certainly charm there: soft white flowers, nutty and with pear, mandarin orange and anise. The palate is spikier and spicier, and complex. Mouthwatering balance of acidity and sweetness – lipsmacking and moreish. Really delicious.

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  • 2020 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 91 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    These wines have got lighter in style with Cornelius taking over the winemaking. SE-facing, not that steep, grey slate with clay. 9% (as riper grapes than the Mosel wines tonight).

    Quite rich and punchy compared to the other wines tonight. Still has the rapier-sharp juicy, lemony acidity, but the clay and the latitude make the wine a bit bigger. Rich, deep florality, rather than delicate white flowers. Finish slightly too sweet but I feel this will integrate.

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  • 2020 Peter Jakob Kühn Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett 90 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    They are arguably the best estate in the Rheingau, which is a lot flatter than the Mosel. S/SW-facing. Iron-rich loess and marl. 10%.

    Richer, headier and more exotic on the nose. Powdery. There’s weight and bitterness but also lots of acidity and citrus – it’s big but in balance. That said, I preferred the Mosel wines from this session.

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Closing

The ‘20s are a good foil to the dense 2019s, which are now closing up. 2020 is, on the other hand, ready to go – so charming and seductive. Transparent and forward. But they will still keep. Less dry extract, less acidity and less alcohol than 2019 – quite an old-school vintage.

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