La Paulee 2023

Tasted Friday, February 3, 2023 by melvinyeowq with 119 views

Introduction

My first La Paulee and it was great to meet the winemakers especially Jacques Devauges, Clémence Egly and Gregory Gouges who went into detail about their practices in the vineyard and winery.

Quick impressionsEgly-Ouriet - Unsurprisingly the Grand Cru was the best of the flight. Despite the name change, the style is the same as the Brut Tradition which was always a perennial favourite. Premices more easy going, Vrigny was a little too tropical for me.

Domaine des Lambrays -Haven’t tried the more recent vintages until today, definitely could feel the step up - the 2021 was much more red-fruited and textural than older ones that I tried. The 2017 Folatieres was a throwback, Jacques said the domaine eschews the reductive practices that is in vogue today.

Gouges - Wow almost unthinkable that the wines were so approachable, apparently the style change got underway in 2007. The LSG was by far my favourite wine at the walkabout tasting, but then I saw the price that it was retailing at..

Bruno Clair- I liked the wines at the walkabout tasting but at the dinner all of them turned jammy unfortunately. The BM was better than the CdB to me, ‘99 Cazetiers a little rustic and plummy.

Edouard Delaunay - Unfortunately no whites on show but the reds were impressive. New-school, sappy, sweet red-fruited style but still with good structure.

And onto the wines at dinner. The four wines between what Dibbs and I brought showed superbly, it was a close call for a favourite and a matter of stylistic preference.

Flight 1 (8 Notes)

  • 1998 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru

    After reading previous notes on CT I was quite apprehensive, but this turned out to be magnificent. For a maker who had a reputation for making hard, rustic wines during this period, this was remarkably elegant and precise. Lifted nose with cassis notes, the structure has receded to leave a wine with saline, purple fruit. Always a joy to catch a Burgundy at its apex. A close second after the 07 Clos Vougeot for me, truly a beautiful wine.

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  • 2002 Louis Jadot Corton-Grèves 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    My second bottle. A little mint on the nose, had the sweet, sappy fruit of 2002 that always reminds me of Ribena. Not as structured as the ‘97 of the same wine I tried last year. Attractive, drinking very well now but lacked the finesse of the '98 Chandon de Briailles alongside.

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  • 2007 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    Took time to get going, fruit was initially muddled on the nose but became so seductive with air. I thought this was an 06 Chambolle, soft and sensual tannins despite being made in a style with heavier extraction and darker red fruit. Haunting finish. Marginally my favourite of the flight ahead of the Chandon de Brailles.

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  • 1999 Louis Jadot Charmes-Chambertin 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Got this spot on albeit in a step-by-step manner (but hey it was all done in one try). Very vibrant red fruit but still felt so young and unready, so landed on 1999 for the vintage. Classic Gevrey dark fruit but in a softer style so went for Charmes. Having brought the 02 Jadot alongside I was quite confident that this was a Jadot too since they shared the same winemaker signature. Good underlying material but just not fully integrated at the moment.

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  • 1998 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Very good typicity at first, had the structure and tannic bite of NSG but with the class of a good producer. Unfortunately became a little oxidised with tea and hawthorn flavours with air.

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  • 1998 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru

    Dead in a generic, oxidised old wine way.

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  • 1995 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Generous pour from a friend but this was quite stemmy with a lot of greenness and impenetrable black fruit.

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  • 2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    From magnum. Haven’t had an old Fevre for a while, was commenting that I bought a bunch from HK when I was first getting into wine but they are all gone unfortunately. Still brilliant, quite big and honeyed for a Chablis but not in any way oxidised. Round citrus fruit, still had good tension despite its age.

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