Simon Beatty Memorial Dinner - Les Clos table

Noize
Tasted Tuesday, February 21, 2023 by NickA with 127 views

Introduction

We took over the restaurant to toast the life of Simon Beatty, generous table-companion and wine-lover extraordinaire. He posthumously provided a number of bottles of Meursault and CNDP to fuel the gathering further.

Flight 1 - Gougeres (1 Note)

  • 2010 Caillez-Lemaire Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Cuvee Jadis Millésime 93 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    Magnum. 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, 10% Meunier. A new producer to me, but one to seek out I think. The aromatics and flavours were very much in an exotic register - pineapple, in particular - and there was an exhilarating hint of ginger, but without any sense of heaviness. Rather, the wine was energetic and playful, with good depth and length, and so easy to enjoy in quantity.

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Flight 2 - Smoked Haddock Mousse, Vichyssoise, Pommes Pailles (3 Notes)

  • 2014 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard 93 Points

    New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu

    Magnum, and decanted. I've had this wine twice before (in 2019 and 2022) and this showing was by far the best, not sharing the previous bottle's faults of being too tropical and too reductive, respectively. Balanced and sophisticated, the reduction adding some matchsticky interest, plenty of tempting lemon/lime fruit and a sense of focus and precision. Delicious wine!

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  • 1996 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Simon's bottle. This really was in excellent condition, if fully mature. Soft and hazelnutty, a pinch of herbs, well-judged level of acidity, mouthfilling, seductive and food-friendly. I was reminded too of the Brown Bread Chocolate by Pump Street (delicious stuff!).

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  • 2011 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    This was a really clean bottle, the wine remaining very pale, and seemed likely to be a few years prior to peak. On the cuddly side of Chablis - no shrieking acidity here - but with sufficient cut and classical aromatics (and a little hint of undigested vanilla oak). Pure, graceful and charming, like the scent of white flowers in a soft breeze.

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Flight 3 - Wild Boar Ragout and fresh Fettucine (2 Notes)

  • 1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Oh boy - smelling this wine was seriously pleasurable. Classical and seeming rather youthful compared to a couple of recent bottles, with graphite, smoke and cassis, the nose was totally intoxicating. The palate didn't quite match up - I would have liked a bit more punch and depth - but its relatively elevated acidity made it an excellent food wine. Certainly not out of place next to the Mouton.

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  • 1996 Château Mouton Rothschild 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    More evolved than the GPL '96 served alongside, which was a good thing as it added some complexity and savour. Leather, tobacco and lots of deep, plummy fruit, but this seamless wine wasn't really about individual notes and more notable for its sense of completeness. Excellent balance and concentration, but also silky smooth and unpretentiously drinkable. Hell yeah! Best wine of 2023 - so far, at least. Thanks Mike!

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Flight 4 - Beef Rump, Fondant Potato, Bordelaise Sauce (3 Notes)

  • 2000 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    Certainly the best wine in its flight, with more energy and focus as well as a more classical feel. Blood and iron, pleasing acidity, and felt like it might even have scope to keep improving as the savoury notes continue to develop. Yum.

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  • 2005 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale 88 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    Oh dear - this, the pre-match favourite, wasn't great. Loose and strangely ripe and primary, I was reminded of tasting the N Rhone 2018s en primeur... and not buying any. Strange! Still, one disappointment out of 12 is pretty good going.

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  • 2006 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale 91 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    This was double-decanted around three hours before it was consumed, and I'm not sure that helped its performance (although getting rid of the sediment before travelling was probably wise). When I decanted it the nose was incredible, smoky and savoury like Ardbeg Corryvreckan, and seemed to fill the room. By the time we drank it that had abated, and on the palate there was a hint of the strange over-ripeness shown by the 2005. Four more bottles and hoping the next is better.

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Flight 5 - Farmhouse Cheeses (2 Notes)

Flight 6 - More Wine?!? (2 Notes)

Closing

A fitting occasion, I hope... we certainly did our best, and the wine gods were smiling on us too.

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