Buurtcafé De Tros, Amsterdam, NL
Tasted Saturday, February 25, 2023 by Xavier Auerbach with 175 views
Very precise, playful and elegant, floral and light on its feet, earth and minerals, lovely fleshy texture buffers bright acidity, ripe orchard fruit (peach, pear), wonderfully elegant and flowing, dancing almost, silky and polished, hint of flower honey, exceptional finish. Even better on the second day.
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Third bottle from a half case purchased from the Dutch importer in 2020. Energetic and relaxed, perfectly classical Ganevat, amazing floral fragrance, salty and with a hint of earth, has a lovely thread of lemon juice acidity running through it, such drive but so relaxed, palpable chalky minerality, long and linear finish. Has really gained from two more years in bottle.
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Organic and biodynamic viticulture. Very perfumed on the nose, lifted and floral, quite a contrast with the weighty and powerful palate (14.5% ABV), salty and delicately nutty, wonderful varietal expression, cool minerality, the finish shows some oak, excellent resonance and length. A more classical style of Jura Chardonnay.
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Marnes bleues, biodynamic viticulture, vinified and aged in demi-muid for 130 months (sic), ouillé and without addition of sulfur. Pale golden colour; incredible complexity on the nose, the depth and range of aromas is breathtaking, fruit from citrus via apple and peach to dried pineapple, fresh and honeyed, deep and spicy, touch of blonde caramel, salty wood; the palate is immensely concentrated with really big flavours, but the acidity provides effortless balance and tension, and the minerally energy is palpable; papery bitters guide the very long and complete finish. A spectacular wine of huge dimensions, but it never feels overpowering. Chef d’oeuvre.
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Tasted blind. Bright and glossy red fruit, cedar flowers, cool gravelly minerality, firm tannins are well integrated, mature but lively, excellent balance, energy, and weight, powerful finish. There was a lot of discussion about the AOC – we could not decide whether it was a classic Saint-Julien or an elegant Pauillac, and we all agreed that it was not a Saint-Estèphe. O, the joys of blind tasting! Holds up well on the second day, clearly plenty of life left.
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Second bottle from a half case purchased in 2002. Completely ready but still vibrant and youthful, develops well with oxygen, oyster shells on the nose, clearly a Saint-Julien but rich and spicy aromas, slightly farmyardy, tannins have a sandy texture but are very firm, complete finish with very good length. A previous bottle was cleaner and had smoother tannins.
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Deep and powerful, rich fruit and warm spices, velvety tannins, voluptuous, but the nose is muted and the tannins are rough and dry. Not a good bottle. Low-level TCA?
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Tasted blind. Fresh and clear and quite precise, glossy red berries, sweet but lively fruit, light but drying tannins, good length. Completely ready, do not wait too long.
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Wonderfully light on its feet for a 2003, silky and floral, sweet but fresh fruit, fully resolved tannins, elegant and feminine, impeccable balance, long and flowing finish. Lives up to its reputation.
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A blend of 53% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot. Amazing, perfumed nose, perfect proportions on the palate, everything in the right place, incredible richness of ripe mulberry fruit, floral lift and spicy depth, voluptuous and feminine but firm and lively, magical balance and elegance, satiny tannins, real concentration but such a lightness of being, effortless line and length. Huge promise. The new 1961? My guess is that it is, and for me this was a perfect bottle.
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Tasted blind. Rich fruit, blackcurrant and (oak) spices, very firm but ripe tannins, deep flavours, broad and powerful but clear and precise, tight and tannic finish. More power and weight than the 2000, but less elegance and finesse. Quite extracted, will need more time to resolve the tannins.
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Slender, classical, precise, rich but firm, oak spice, the big tannins are finally softening, totally true to type. On its plateau of maturity, decades ahead of it.
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Final bottle from a three-bottle lot purchased at auction in 2000. Top shoulder level. Brought as an impromptu gesture because the cork fell in when I lifted the bottle in my cellar. Full golden colour with an orange sheen; the nose is mature but fresh and lively, ripe citrus and peach, honey and tropical fruit, touch of oak; the palate retains a lovely sweetness, in perfect harmony with savoury oak and lively acidity, intense and elegant, mild bitters; Grand Marnier on the finish, hint of oak, not drying at all, very good length. There is real finesse here.
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NV Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuis 91 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Consistent with my previous notes, this never disappoints. A lovely start to the evening.
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