An early take on some greats

Tøyen, Oslo
Tasted Sunday, April 2, 2023 by Hugo Hilde with 115 views

Introduction

The idea was to catch these wines in their primary phase, before any possible shut downs. The 20 Burgundies were drinking shockingly well, no reason not to try them now.
We were maybe a few weeks/months too late on opening Lafleur, very stubborn now. This pair of Lafleur vs Margaux 19 should be spectacular in 15 years!

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 2019 Château Lafleur

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Double decanted 5 hours prior to dinner

    When opened, the bottle gave immensely deep black fruits, savoury herbs, mushrooms and forest floor. Fantastic, so promising.

    At dinner, not much remained, though I got a glimpse of deep blackberry, spicy barrel on the nose.

    Palate felt very ripe, juicy, though with a LOT of tannins which are quite refined. Sweet coffee, very long fruit driven finish.

    After an hour or so, this thightened up a lot, not very giving, also showing a slight heat.

    The next day, the nose was much more open, giving blueberries, cherries, pine needles and orange rind.

    This bottle was descening into shut down mode, should not be touched for at least 10 years, probably more like 20.

    Extreme potential, impossible to score accurately tonight, though I have a feeling this could become something truly special.

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  • 2019 Château Margaux 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Double decanted 5 hours prior to serving

    Beautiful bright red fruited nose, showing the feminine side of Cab Sauvignon, red currants and a very refreshing vanilla with lemon zest, quite a different animal than the Lafleur 19 preceding it.

    Fantastic mouthfeel, so smooth with luxurious oak, vanilla, cinnamon and perhaps the longest finish I have come across, at least with this level of sustained intensity, driven by sweet red berries. Fascinating stuff!

    Not shut down yet, but wow, this could become legandary at its zenith.

    97+++

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Flight 2 (2 Notes)

  • 2020 Domaine Duroché Charmes-Chambertin 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Double decanted 4 hours prior to serving

    The nose is dominated by very sweet raspberry, almost a bit candied. With time, more complexity emerged with roses, flowers and damp earth.

    Very sweet and enveloping mouthfeel, a good line of acidity and mostly disguised tannins. Very long finish driven by an earthy aroma I found very compelling.

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  • 2020 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

    Double decanted 4 hours before dinner

    More wooden elements on the nose than the Charmes 20 preceding it. Also here, earth and also a very nice spicy berries component.

    The second this hits the tongue, I started laughing. I have never before tasted anything like this, the voluptuousness and intensity of fruit was baffling. It was like a party in my mouth, no jamminess and enough acidity to balance it, but my good, this was fun. So much breadth with all kinds of red berries and cinnamon. Very nice length as well.

    Immensely sad that I only have two bottles left, cannot wait until the next bottle.

    A 100 points experience, somewhere around 92/93 for the actual wine in the glass

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

  • 2018 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

    Double decanted 3 hours prior to dinner

    Dark fruited nose, completely different from the 20s before, a tad warm, blueberries, cut hay and vanilla pod.

    Almost a bit "wet" mouthfeel, somewhat overripe plums.
    Long finish with sweet fruits and a light yeasty note which threw me off a bit.

    Developed nicely in the glass, becoming more seamless and interesting.

    I remember being more enthustiatic last time I tasted this, perhaps it suffered tonight next to cleaner wines.

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  • 2020 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

    Double decanted 4 hours prior to serving

    Very interesting nose, glossy red fruits and berries, luxorious oak, white pepper, ever evolving and always sous bois looming underneath.

    Very drinkable, tannins are covered in sweet raspberry with a superb mineralité, and a very very long finish. The mouthfeel is so airy as well as concentrated, for me the hallmark of Pinot greatness.

    What a fabulous showing, irresistible right now, though should age very well.

    94/95

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