Cheap Wines

No real news here - the under-$10 price point is very much hit-and-miss, but there are some excellent values to be had. The old standby regions for value, like the Languedoc, Southern Rhone, Loire, and Southeastern Spain are still doing better at turning out these wines than most of the New World, although Epicurean's Earthworks project looks promising.

• 2007 Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul de Pinet Hugues de Beaulieu 87 Points

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet

  Lemon, herbs and minerality. Tingly acids are ripe and citrusy, with a little weird eggshell note as well. Best vintage of this wine I've had, delivering even more character for the measly asking price.

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• 2006 Line 39 Sauvignon Blanc 83 Points

  USA, California

  Fresh hay on the nose, which is far less fruity than most warm climate Sauvignon. Definite sense of dilution diminishes slightly with chewing, and there's a tiny bit of interesting spiciness to the flavors. A buttery aftertaste adds some interest, even if its not in keeping with the character of the wine. Not bad at all for the price.

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• 2006 Château de Passavant Anjou Jarret de Montchenin 85 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou

  Lots of earth and farmyard; rather entrancing. Subtle and building, with bitter extract and a floral/yeasty finish. Ultimately lacks a little life.

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• 2007 Pine Ridge Vineyards Chenin Blanc Viognier 85 Points

  USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg

  Highlighting the meagerness of character of California Chenin, the 20% Viognier component here totally dominates the sweet perfume of honeysuckle and fainter orange notes. Tastes like fresh squeezed OJ that's gone slightly bitter, but the bitterness is welcome here and partially compensates for the lowish acids. Delivers good Viognier character for a cheap Chenin price.

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• 2007 Marquis Philips Riesling Roogle 77 Points

  Australia, Western Australia

  Hollow and ill-defined aromas vaguely suggest a bathtub. Sickly saccharine yet thin. Would make a good cocktail for someone whose taste you scorn.

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• NV Niepoort Porto White Port 82 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Not completely caramelized aromas retain some freshness, as do the flavors, which do, however, quickly become rough and spirity if not excessively sweet. Not as bad as I feared, but I still just can't dig this.

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• 2006 Fontanafredda Piemonte Barbera Briccotondo 83 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Piemonte DOC

  Medium cherry plum. Ultraprimary in a sweet way, with the faintest cigar note. Then ultrasoft on the palate, falling off as it finishes, although thankfully it tastes drier than the nose suggests. Won't satisfy a real Barbera craving.

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• 2006 La Corte Salice Salentino 84 Points

  Italy, Puglia, Salice Salentino

  Black red. Roasted, overripe and raisined, yet somehow actually quite attractive, if monolithic. Strikes a nice balance between glycerin and extraction, though the disappearing tannins don't do much to make the finish more interesting. Never gains complexity save for a cheesy aftertaste.

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• 2005 Alliance Loire Saumur-Champigny Les Vignoles 85 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny

  Dark violet. Gravelly raspberries and subtle horse sweat. Shows solid structure and ripeness in the mouth, with much better concentration than other cuvees from this co-op that I've tried previously. Classic bell pepper shows up on the finish. Pretty complete, modest S-C.

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• 2003 Château de Passavant Anjou-Villages Rouge 84 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou-Villages

  Medium dark tomatoey burgundy. Slightly baked aromas are mildly peppery, reminiscent of something sweet coming from the oven. Grainy, with sneaky acid but no fruit to be found.

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• 2006 Delas Frères Côtes du Rhône Saint-Esprit 86 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

  Medium dark red. Just a bit of sweat accents the superripe mixed berry aromas. Plush yet balanced and persistent. The dominant Syrah component does, as Parker notes, give this a darker profile than your typical CDR, but it's still a pleasing drink.

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• 2005 Bodegas Castaño Monastrell Yecla Hécula 90 Points

  Spain, Murcia, Yecla

  Dark purple. Mineral, smoke, earth, and blackberry liqueur on the nose. Big and chewy, with an interesting sweet caraway aspect. Clearly on a different qualitative level than the rest of the cheapies in this tasting.

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• 2003 Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva 85 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  Light garnet. Invitingly sweet caramelized cherries on the nose. Juicy at first, with some dry spicy edges, the acids ultimately get overwhelmed by the sweetness, perhaps reflecting the vintage.

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• 2006 Poppy Pinot Noir 81 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County

  Light red garnet. High toned tobacco smoke and green herbs dominate, yet there's plenty of ripeness here too. Enters the mouth sweet, then threatens to be cloying. But the flavors dissipate entirely, thus sparing the palate a worse fate.

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• 2005 Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon 78 Points

  South Africa, Breede River Valley, Robertson

  Dark garnet. Frank syrup on the nose, making it impossible to enjoy the notes of herbs and black pepper. More of the same in the mouth. Does nothing to refute the belief that Cab just doesn't lend itself to the syrupy style.

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• 2005 Bodega Benegas Cabernet Sauvignon Luna Benegas Libertad Vineyards 85 Points

  Argentina, Mendoza

  Medium dark red. Big and smoky, with blackberry liqueur. Gives a real impression of size and substance and almost backs it up sufficiently with length.

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• 2006 Earthworks Cabernet Sauvignon 86 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Very dark cherry red. Mellow nose is like a blend of rhubarb and cherry pie, with some bell pepper thrown into the mix. Heavyweight but not cloying; more than decent entry-level Barossa Cab.

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• NV Rosenblum Cellars Zinfandel Vintner's Cuvée XXX 80 Points

  USA, California

  Medium dark pure purple. Surprisingly tight, suggesting a liqueur of green herbs and humus-y soil. Then flabby and weedy, with a spicy finish.

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• 2006 Castle Rock Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 84 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Medium violet red. High toned baking spice and lively pure fruit. Very sweet but with decent support in the flavor department, although said flavor comes across as largely oak-derived.

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• 2007 Tintero Moscato d'Asti Sori Gramella 85 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti

  Unmistakable peach and citrus on the not-too-sweet nose. Serviceable but decidedly more dilute than the Moscatos of other producers (Saracco, Braida, and Scagliola come to mind).

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