From magnum. This is one of the most Champagne-like bottlings of Ultramarine I recall having; it's relatively rich and biscuity on the palate, but the midpalate and finish taper out a little bit. Very nice acidity overall, as well as minerality. Quite enjoyable, but I have some trouble with the value proposition here, unfortunately.
Not sure I get what this is trying to be. Comes across pretty neutral in terms of grape profile (really, this could be chardonnay) because of how overwhelming the reduction is, both on the nose and palate. Others enjoyed it, I did not. For me, this definitely sits in the camp of overly reduced wines.
Wax top (friends don't let friends drink capsuled Dauvissat). Very umami and savoury, with an almost konbucha-like (昆布茶, not the fermented tea that hipsters drink) quality. Lean, with relatively little fruit, but very structural. To be honest, not really my style of chardonnay, but I can at least recognize why others would like it -- I don't feel that way with plenty of Dauvissat bottles.
This punches at a Meursault 1er level, and not some random negociant bottle sort of deal. Balanced reduction and oak here, with intense acidity, minerality, and fruit, all packaged together neatly and in very good balance. I really love the complexity and richness here -- this is the sort of chardonnay that really speaks to me.
Next to the Heintz, this is far more minerally and steely, with more of a structural backbone. The fleshier, California fruit is still present and detectable here, but here it serves to balance those structural elements. In hindsight, while I've always thought I liked the Heintz more, I think I may have been wrong about that.
A bit of a stylistic contrast to the Trout Gulch; this is more opulent and showy, with more of the California fruit on display. Perhaps even a hint more tropical. I preferred the slightly more mineral and structural Trout Gulch, but both were excellent examples of Ceritas.
Served double blind. Clearly not something I normally drink. This had an oily, rich palate, with a slightly phenolic/herbal element. Relatively low acid, and higher alcohol had me thinking Mediterranean. This was a nice foil for the various pieces of belly nigiri, but I would find it hard to drink more than a glass of it ordinarily.
2012 Ultramarine Blanc de Noirs (Late Disgorged) Charles Heintz Vineyard 90 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
From magnum. This is one of the most Champagne-like bottlings of Ultramarine I recall having; it's relatively rich and biscuity on the palate, but the midpalate and finish taper out a little bit. Very nice acidity overall, as well as minerality. Quite enjoyable, but I have some trouble with the value proposition here, unfortunately.
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2018 von Winning Riesling Ozyetra 85 Points
Germany, Pfalz
Not sure I get what this is trying to be. Comes across pretty neutral in terms of grape profile (really, this could be chardonnay) because of how overwhelming the reduction is, both on the nose and palate. Others enjoyed it, I did not. For me, this definitely sits in the camp of overly reduced wines.
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2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Wax top (friends don't let friends drink capsuled Dauvissat). Very umami and savoury, with an almost konbucha-like (昆布茶, not the fermented tea that hipsters drink) quality. Lean, with relatively little fruit, but very structural. To be honest, not really my style of chardonnay, but I can at least recognize why others would like it -- I don't feel that way with plenty of Dauvissat bottles.
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2014 Dureuil-Janthial Rully 1er Cru Le Meix Cadot Vieilles Vignes 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully 1er Cru
This punches at a Meursault 1er level, and not some random negociant bottle sort of deal. Balanced reduction and oak here, with intense acidity, minerality, and fruit, all packaged together neatly and in very good balance. I really love the complexity and richness here -- this is the sort of chardonnay that really speaks to me.
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2014 Ceritas Chardonnay Trout Gulch 90 Points
USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
Next to the Heintz, this is far more minerally and steely, with more of a structural backbone. The fleshier, California fruit is still present and detectable here, but here it serves to balance those structural elements. In hindsight, while I've always thought I liked the Heintz more, I think I may have been wrong about that.
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2014 Ceritas Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard 90 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
A bit of a stylistic contrast to the Trout Gulch; this is more opulent and showy, with more of the California fruit on display. Perhaps even a hint more tropical. I preferred the slightly more mineral and structural Trout Gulch, but both were excellent examples of Ceritas.
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2017 La Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Blanco 90 Points
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
Served double blind. Clearly not something I normally drink. This had an oily, rich palate, with a slightly phenolic/herbal element. Relatively low acid, and higher alcohol had me thinking Mediterranean. This was a nice foil for the various pieces of belly nigiri, but I would find it hard to drink more than a glass of it ordinarily.
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