2018 von Winning Riesling Ozyetra
Riesling
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2/10/2024 - sirpat00 Likes this wine: 95 Points
From magnum. Intense aromas of peach, apricot and citrus fruit. A fresh grassy layer. Mineral notes of petrol and granite. Also a spicy feature of ginger. Nicely creamy texture with crisp acidity on the palate. A more citric fruit here. Long and vibrant finish. An outstanding young Riesling.
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10/3/2023 - Nanda wrote: 93 Points
Fascinating wine in a unique style with so much delicious reduction (akin to Coche) layered into the concentrated and well-balanced fruit. With time the Riesling character starts to surface but this is by no means a classic GG wine. Something different, for sure. Delicious.
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10/3/2023 - acyso wrote: 85 Points
Dinner at 312 Fish Market (Chicago, IL): Not sure I get what this is trying to be. Comes across pretty neutral in terms of grape profile (really, this could be chardonnay) because of how overwhelming the reduction is, both on the nose and palate. Others enjoyed it, I did not. For me, this definitely sits in the camp of overly reduced wines.
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8/3/2023 - forceberry wrote: 94 Points
The second vintage of the flagship white of Von Winning (along with the Marmar bottling). This is a special selection of the best barrels of von Winning's Forster Pechstein GG Riesling. Fermented spontaneously in 500-liter oak barrels. Aged on the lees in oak barrels for two years. Since a VDP winery can have only one bottle of GG wine from one specific site, Ozyetra is not bottled as a GG Pechstein, but as a simple Gutswein. 13% alcohol, 4,6 g/l residual sugar, 7,7 g/l acidity.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. Compared to the 2020 and 2019 vintages tasted next to this, the nose feels noticeably less sweet and more reductive with a somewhat PYCM / Coche-like flinty reduction and struck match notes along with somewhat restrained yet very nuanced aromas of ripe lemony citrus fruits and grilled pineapple, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light crunchy notes of spicy red apple, a hint of salty liquorice powder, a touch of honeydew melon and a whiff of beeswax. The wine feels dry, concentrated and somewhat reductive on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of spicy red apple and lemony citrus fruits, some reductive notes of flinty smoke and struck match, light honeydew melon tones, a little bit of salty liquorice powder, a juicy hint of peachy stone fruit and a touch of creamy oak. The overall fruit profile is drier and less fruity than in other vintages of Ozyetra, showing more emphasis on minerality and acidity. The bracing acidity lends a tremendous amount of intensity, structure and freshness to the wine. The finish is dry, crisp and racy with a very long, slightly reductive aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and smoky flinty tones, some crunchy red apple, a little bit of pithy grapefruit and apple peel bitterness, light sweeter notes of honeyed richness, oaky hints of savory wood spice and creaminess and a touch of salty liquorice powder.
A somewhat atypical vintage of Ozyetra: unlike the other vintages that were noticeably Riesling-like, the style here was more similar to a Western Australian Chardonnay or a white Burgundy made in a smoky, reductive style à la PYCM or Coche-Dury. However, the Riesling qualities emerge after some air, and even if this vintage is more about minerality and reduction than fruit, the fruit department does appear quite fully with enough aeration. Furthermore, the wine is remarkably brisk, focused and structured for a 2018 Pfalz Riesling, showing great sense of precision and aging potential. Despite its moderately reduced nature, this is a very impressive effort already now - however, I'd let the wine age for many, many years more, just to blow off some of that reduction and coax a bit more of that Riesling fruit to the fore. All in all, an excellent wine.
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5/28/2023 - forceberry wrote: 94 Points
Ozyetra is a special selection of the best barrels of von Winning's Forster Pechstein GG Riesling. Fermented spontaneously in 500-liter oak barrels. Aged on the lees in oak barrels for two years. 13% alcohol, 4,6 g/l residual sugar, 7,7 g/l acidity.
Quite deep, very intense but still strikingly youthful neon yellow-green color. Very intense and noticeably reductive nose with a big smack of flint smoke followed by concentrated aromas of grilled lemon and lemon rind, some salty liquorice powder, a little bit of singed wood, light spicy notes of white pepper, a sweeter hint of ripe Golden Delicious apple and a fragrant touch of apple blossom and other white flowers. The wine feels dry, focused and moderately reductive on the palate with a medium body and very intense flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits and salty liquorice powder, some woody notes of savory oak spice, light reductive nuances of gunpowder smoke and struck flint, a little bit of white pepper, mineral hints of wet rock and tangy salinity and a touch of creamy oak. The brisk, racy acidity lends great sense of structure and electric energy to the wine. The palate-cleansing finish is crisp, focused and remarkably persistent with a dry aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and tart Granny Smith apple, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light creamy notes of oak, a hint of spicy red apple and a flinty touch of smoky reduction.
A very impressive, structure-driven and pretty idiosyncratic super-GG that might be ripe in its own way, but lacks the fat and weight many 2018 Pfalz Rieslings have shown. This wine is all about ripe yet dry fruit flavors, pronounced minerality and - surprisingly for a 2018 Riesling - very structured acidity. And reduction. Yes, there's tons of smoky, flinty reduction, making this wine first feel more like a reductively made white Burgundy or Western Australia Chardonnay rather than a GG Riesling. However, with some air the Riesling qualities start to punch through and with about 30 to 60 minutes the reduction has dissipated enough to let the wine fire on all cylinders - although the smoky qualities never go fully away. At the moment the wine is still a bit nervous and not fully integrated - the woody nuances feel slightly disjointed at times and the overall feel is still dominated by the reductive characteristics. However, as the wine feels it is all about cellaring potential, I have no doubts this will age gracefully for years and turn into something even more impressive as it gets older. Let the wine age for at least another 5 years, maybe 10.
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