2014 Barolo and Barbaresco

The time seemed right to check in on 2014... useful lighter-styled vintage, or underpowered and disappointingly green? Actually better in Barbaresco? Ready yet?

• 2020 Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca 91 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico

  Although the style isn't to everyone's taste, I always enjoy Rocca and this was no exception. Open, bright, spicy nose, with some lemon coming through. Opulent on the palate, which showed pineapple fruit and some oak that will integrate with time, and then an attractive, energetic finish.

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• 2018 Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta Anas-Cetta 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  A very flinty nose, that I would have attributed to reduction except that I haven't detected that note when previously trying this wine (March '21 and June '22), so perhaps it's a curious artifact of development in the bottle. The wine also seemed to have put on weight, which is less of a surprise. What hadn't changed, though, is the quality of the fresh, greenish fruit, and the rather salty, salivating finish was a nice development.

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• 2014 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Musky, dark-toned nose, the fruit having a cassis quality rather than the more typical Nebbiolo cherry or strawberry. Again pretty dark on the palate, and also round and ripe, the tannins being well-integrated into and concealed by the fruit. A touch of something savoury too. Although quite approachable already, this weighty wine will almost certainly benefit from 5-10 more years in bottle.

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• 2014 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  This wine's quality was obvious from the first sniff, the nose being sleek and bright, with an intriguing combination of anise and something rounder and mealier. The most striking attribute on the palate was the prominence of the tannins, though we all remarked on their attractively fine, sandy nature, and they seemed to disappear once we were served our food. The flavour profile had excellent typicity, with grippy red fruit and a hint of herbs. This elegant, refreshing, food-friendly wine (that may get even better) was my and the group's #2 tonight.

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• 2014 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Quite a bit of CO2, which we had to shake out with vigour. First impression was of a tight, young, somewhat lean wine, although with air the nose loosened up to reveal some floral and ashy notes. Tangy and berry-fruited on the palate, and notably dry. This wine felt the least ready tonight, and also the most stereotypically '2014', but I did enjoy it.

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• 2014 Grasso Tiziano Barolo Briccolina 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  The same score and the same impressions as when I tried this in 2021: noticeably dark in colour, enjoyable, on the plush side. The nose was pretty, with some fruit pastille, and the palate full-bodied, with gorgeous jewel-like fruit and some oak on the finish. Whilst delicious at the start, many of us agreed that the wine became increasingly hard-going, such that a glass of it was enough - and one of us even noted, quite rightly, that the wine was almost more like a Bordeaux than a Barolo.

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• 2014 Roagna Barbaresco Albesani 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Slightly translucent red - quite a contrast to the wines in the previous flight. A sexy nose, with an almondy Bakewell Tart note, and a touch of vanilla. Good on the palate too, which was a great (and well-balanced) combination of juicily piquant, deeply plummy and slightly gamey. Very enjoyable, and the group's joint #3 wine.

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• 2014 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  I expected this to vie with the Monvigliero for my favourite wine of the evening, but sadly the Pajè didn't elevate itself to that level. Even paler to look at than the Albesani, but actually richer and less elegantly poised. Broad red fruit and silky tannin, but not much in the way of complexity until some pretty, floral character eventually revealed itself (at which point I upped my score). Wasn't helped by being served pretty warm, and maybe not quite a perfect bottle - or perhaps just too young.

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• 2014 Elvio Cogno Barolo Riserva Vigna Elena 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A soulful nose, with an ashy note and increasingly energetic with more air: really attractive. Delightful and so refreshing on the palate, with lovely red fruit, a seam of fresh blackcurrant and a slightly sweet finish. Didn't feel too early to open this, but it is barely at the start of its window and I will wait a few years before opening my first bottle (I didn't bring this tonight). My and the group's #3 tonight.

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• 2014 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A stunning floral nose, with sweet, seductive strawberry fruit and a touch of smoked fish (which didn't detract, somehow). Balanced and giving on the palate, with lift from the well-judged acidity and something slightly honeyed. This wine has bloomed since a good-not-great bottle in 2020, and was the clear WOTN for both me and the group.

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• 2014 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun 89 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  A bright nose, with good Nebbiolo typicity and a touch of new oak that brought to mind an Old Fashioned. Rich on the palate, with some noticeable tannin. Needs time to develop more character, as it was perfectly nice but very MOR.

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• 2014 La Ca' Növa Barbaresco Vigna Bric Mentina Montefico Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Corked - oddly, it didn't smell especially cardboardy, but the finish tasted like disgusting stale salty broth. Shame, there was obviously a good wine underneath.

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In conclusion:
- pretty good vintage, yes, but not more than that. More fun than the 2012s but more reticent than the 2011s, although the best examples were wonderfully refreshing
- on these samples, yes, Barbaresco probably does have the edge in this vintage, there seemed to be more consistency (although you'd expect PdB and Roagna to do well)
- most of the wines seemed well into their windows, although most will probably improve for 5, perhaps even 10 years.
- I don't think I'll be buying any more 2014s (already own some of the Asili and Vigna Elena, as well as Cogno Ravera, that seems like enough)