1997 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Retrospective

Omaha, NE
Tasted Thursday, January 18, 2024 by thesternowl with 113 views

Introduction

One of the boys mentioned that he had a bunch of 1997 Napa Valley Cabernets that he wanted to open and thought it might be fun to do a retrospective on what was, at the time, heralded as one of the best vintages for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon of the decade. Naturally, we all thought it would be a fun thing to do and a few of us had some bottles of our own to contribute. We divided the wines into three flights; four if you count the champagne flight at the beginning. The format would be single-blind.

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 2002 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Special Club 93 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Popped and poured; no formal notes. Just old enough to drink itself, this Special Club from Goutorbe is vinous and firing on all cylinders right now. There is such a compelling mix of primary and secondary characteristics with structure and fruit in perfect balance. A lovely opening glass of bubbles for what was certain to be a memorable night. Drink now through 2032.

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  • 2016 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Grand Cru Special Club Oger 91 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Popped and poured; no formal notes. While the Goutorbe was ready for the business, this 2016 from Gimonnet was more of a discussion about its potential. This Special Club bottling showcases Oger and naturally, is a 100% Chardonnay BdB. I like where it’s headed, it’s just so youthful and tightly coiled. Loads of minerals and acid. Needs time. Drink after 2026 and through 2046.

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Flight 2 (5 Notes)

  • 1997 Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

    Presented single-blind; no formal notes. On the nose, this shared similar characteristics to wine #3. The most striking of which was a powerful note of finely ground cumin on the nose. Fruit is mostly desiccated at this point; the structure keeping everything together, but just. I called “Rubicon”. While clearly in the sunset of its life, this showed slightly less energy than the Dalla Valle but no less charm. Drink now.

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  • 1997 Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    Presented single-blind; no formal notes. This was super similar to wine #4. The most striking characteristic for both wines was a powerful note of finely ground cumin on the nose. Fruit is mostly desiccated at this point; the structure keeping everything together. While dimming, this seemed to show indications that this was a slightly more powerful wine earlier in its life. I called “Dalle Valle”. Drink now.

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  • 1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Presented single-blind; no formal notes. This had a really compelling mix of fruit and non-fruit notes; multifaceted, balanced. Superb structure. Bordeaux-like. Called this “Insignia”. This was my favorite of the flight and the most complete wine in the line-up. Drinking well now and should hold that way well through 2027.

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  • 1997 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Presented single-blind; no formal notes. Noticeably darker, bluer-fruited than the others in the flight. Plush and more rounded fruit profile. Structure still there. Arguably the most youthful of the flight since not all of the fruit is in the desiccated stage. Certainly the most modern of the flight. Called “Pahlmeyer”. Drink now through 2027.

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  • 1997 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Flawed

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Corked. What a pity.

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Flight 3 (4 Notes)

  • 1997 Ridge Monte Bello 95 Points

    USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

    Presented single-blind; no formal notes. Wine #2 had great color, was developing, fresh, focused, balanced; great structure. One of those glasses of wine you didn’t want to end and, for me, a tough call for favorite of the flight along with Wine #1. I vacillated between this being Dominus or Monte Bello; ultimately calling the former. This is in a beautiful phase of life. Drink now through 2040.

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  • 1997 Staglin Family Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

    Presented single-blind; no formal notes. Wine #4 had great color, had a gorgeous, slightly lifted nose. Developing, the fruit leaned a little more opulent, but only just. Some secondary characteristics beginning to emerge but no signs of fading. There was excellent structure with lovely acid. I called Staglin. A real beauty that’s ready to drink through 2037

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  • 1997 Dominus Estate 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Presented single-blind; no formal notes. Wine #1 had great color, was developing, and probably the earthiest of the group but still had a lovely fruit profile. A really nice balance of fruit and non-fruits. Robust structure. Notably, this was the only bottle in the flight that had Brettanomyces…and while I found it to quite charming, this is what ultimately got me hung up on whether I thought this was the Dominus or the Monte Bello. Ultimately I called the later. I really dig this and wish I could afford more Dominus in my life. Drink now and through 2035.

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  • 1997 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Presented single-blind; no formal notes. Wine #3 had great color and was charming on the nose. Developing, the fruit was beginning to show a slightly more desiccated profile. Relative to the others in the flight, this seems a bit more like a fastball right down the middle of the plate. I called Dunn Napa. A really nice wine that was just a little less interesting relative to the others in the flight. Drink now and through 2030.

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Flight 4 (4 Notes)

Closing

Well...that was fun! We only had two flawed bottles (the BV GdL III and the Beringer Private Reserve) and all of the others showed really quite well while some, were stunning. The Monte Bello was probably everyone's favorite though there was a lot of love for the Staglin, Insignia and even the humble W. Hogue Vintners "Terraces". P.S. most of the drinking windows on CT for these wines are waaaaaaaaaay off.

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