Rich and Peggy's Home in Los Altos, CA
Tasted Monday, August 14, 2006 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 255 views
Intro by tasting organizer, Ross B.
While the 2002 vintage for California produced great Pinot Noirs in most of the state, it was particularly kind to the Russian River Valley. Of the Pinot vintage, Wine Spectator had to say: "Sensational year, best yet in California, with dark, complex wines", and rated the whole Russian River / Sonoma area 94/100 for the year. In talking to Rochioli in the winter after the harvest, one could sense their excitement -- the color, sugar, acids, and bright fruit of the grapes to them was only equaled by their 1994 harvest, which they still use as the benchmark to compare all other vintages.
It is now four years after the vintage, and the best Pinots should just be hitting their stride. Tonight we'll try pairs of Pinots from four top Russian River Valley producers: Williams Selyem, Dehlinger, Rochioli, and Siduri.
Although the plan was to have all '02s, an '03 Rochioli Estate snuck in instead of the '02 that was expected. There were at least 16 tasters, and it was interesting to see how sharply split we were on a couple of the wines. I thought the '02 Rochioli West Block was the clear winner of the evening, as did a couple of other tasters who are primarily Burgophiles. Williams Selyem hasn't done well in blindtastings for me since the mid-80s, and this night was no exception. I was also very impressed by the Dehlinger Goldridge.
All of these, except the Siduri Keefer, are good drinking now. I think they'll still be in top form for another two or three years, and the Rochiolis will likely go on longer.
2002 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir West Block 92 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Group's #2 (my #1) - faint soy sauce and creamy oak on nose; luscious, ripe raspberry and taut red fruit with bright entry and stately mid-palate; medium long finish 92+ pts. ($88 on release, 14.2%)
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2002 Siduri Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard 83 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Group's #3 (my #8) - funky, earthy, slightly fishy nose; monolithic, funky, barnyardy fruit w/artificial cherry flavor; medium finish (People either liked or hated this one.)($50 on release, 15.3%)
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2002 Dehlinger Pinot Noir Goldridge 91 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Group's #4 (my #2) - light in color; delicate soy sauce and Burgundy nose; tasty, tart red fruit and good acid on mid-palate; medium long juicy finish features a pink grapefruit note ($40 on release, 14.6%)
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2002 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 88 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Group's #5 (my #6) - faint raspberry and iodine nose that turns to chocolate after 30 minutes in the glass; solid, juicy, ripe raspberry and oak, with cocoa note; medium finish 88+ pts. ($47, 14.2%)
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2003 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 90 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Group's #6 (my #3) - lovely, faintly barnyardy and sausage nose; tasty, solid Burgundian tart red fruit with a little juiciness on medium finish 90+ pts. ($42, 14.2%)
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2002 Dehlinger Pinot Noir Estate 89 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Group's #7 (my #5) - attractive tart strawberry and oak nose; luscious red fruit with surprising concentration, but lacking in acid; medium finish ($46, 14.7%)
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2002 Siduri Pinot Noir Sapphire Hill Vineyard 90 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Group's #8 (my #4) - light in color; thin savory nose w/strawberries and cream; solid, elegant, tart strawberry palate; medium finish ($42, 14.7%)
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