Gibbston Valley Winery Visit

A quick visit to pick up some wines I'd bought in 2005 turned into a superb light lunch in the courtyard where Matt Switrz took Angela and me through a relaxed and very informative tasting of recent wines, including several new cuvees.

• 2008 Gibbston Valley Riesling 87 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Light greenish gold. Slight pineapple, floral and kerosene nose. Good crisp refreshing acid and very clean elegant fruit with a dry and refreshing back end and just a hint of residual sugar on the finish. Enjoyable.

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• 2008 Gibbston Valley Riesling La Fou, Expressionist Series Gibbston Home Estate Vineyard 88 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Made from the original 1986 vines, single vineyard, fermented in very small stainless steel barrels. High residual sugar and only 9% alcohol. Green gold colour. Sweeter nose, minerally. Sweet on the palate but very crisp green apple acidity to balance it. Fresh finish.

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• 2009 Gibbston Valley Pinot Gris 85 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Crisp greenish gold. Classic Pinot Gris white flowers and light honeysuckle nose. Honeyed palate which is fairly fresh but a bit cloying and alcoholic for my taste.

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• 2009 Gibbston Valley Pinot Gris Dulcinee, Expressionist Series Gibbston Home Estate Vineyard 90 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Single vineyard old original vines. 14.5% alcohol. Lots of lees stirring for 4 months and lots of lees contact because of the small barrels. Perfumed petrolly nose. Palate is very full mouthfeel and very leesy with very precise and refined intense smoky sweetness that leads you away from normal Pinot Gris. Very clean finish with no cloyingness at all. Impressive.

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Christopher Keys, the winemaker, is very excited about this wine which was first made in 2007 but in tiny quantities.

• 2008 Gibbston Valley Chardonnay Reserve 84 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Aged a full year in 20% new French oak. Long lees stirring. 60% malolactic. Light golden sunshine colour. Fresh very pronounced Chardonnay grape essence nose that is one dimensional. Some citrus notes emarge. Palate is very nettle-ish and clean but unremarkable and with a surprisingly complete lack of buttery or creamy element despite the malolactic fermentation. This is very young but personally I don't think it's a Sleeping Beauty.

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2007 in Central Otago was a very low-yeild year because of a cold spring and a freakishly cold summer, including a significant snowfall on Christmas Day (i.e. Midsummer). Accordingly, yeilds were one-third of normal but the quality of the grapes was exceptionally high.......... tiny, highly concentrated berries.

• 2007 Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir 88 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Dark just-transparent deep rose red. Classic Central Otago nose of cherries and rich violets. Very intense nose that reflects the extremely low yield that year (30% of normal). Has the fruitier, clay-based Bendingo grapes in the mix. as well as the lighter more minerally schist-based Gibbston Valley fruit. Palate is still very tannic and with very concentrated black cherry and some raspberries, dry boxwood on the back end. Needs time.

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• 2007 Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir Le Maitre, Expressionist Series 93 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Made to mark the 20th anniversary of Gibbston Valley's first release of Pinot Noir. Only 1700 bottles produced. Very hands off winemaking style applied. Only used original Gibbston Valley vineyard fruit. Grape yeilds in 2007 were one-third of normal because of weird weather including snow on Midsummer's Day but it resulted in tiny but perfectly concentrated grapes. Very light raspberry red translucent colour. Wow nose of raspberry and damp-earth forest floor. Very light mouthfeel, almost watery but incredible concentration and multiple-dimensionality on the palate. More pig styes than fruit. Very sophisticated and elegant. Very restrained tannins. Good length and considerable resonance in the head on the finish. Wonderful and will be absolutely stunning in 5-8 years' time. Seriously impressive stuff that is of Burgundy Grand Cru quality and character.

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2008 was an abundant and high quality vintage in Central Otago.

• 2008 Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir Le Mineur D'Orient, Expressionist Series 90 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Medium transparent red purple. Lovely typical warm ripe black cherries nose. Still a lot of wood. Touch of violets in the background. Palate is immediate coffee and toffee and caramel, light in mouthfeel but totally mouthcoating and warmly welcoming. Not heavy. Great depth and restraint. Needs a lot of time as still very reticent. Leave it for 5 years.

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• 2008 Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir 87 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Deep blood red translucent colour. Reticent nose of black cherries and boxwood. Palate is tart blood oranges and lots of tannin. Should unfold well over the coming 2-3 years. Is just too young at the moment.

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Christopher Keys, the winemaker, is going from strength to strength as the vines his predecessor planted during the 1980s start to reach adulthood. He is showing a lot of creativity and adventurousness with some of the new cuvees......and the restaurant at the Winery is exceptionally good.