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Chef Nita's Tasting Menu

Craig's House

Tasted October 27, 2010 by Siggy with 910 views

Introduction

Thanks to Craig, Joe, and especially Nita Vanderah for an unforgettable evening of friends, food, and wine!

Flight 1 - Champagne (4 notes)

Paired with homemade potato chips with pan-fried onion dip and a variety of cheeses

White - Sparkling
2002 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
Brief notes: Large-scaled, intense, and youthful. Ripe, complex apple-infused fruit, lively acidity, and pungent supporting minerality that build to a long finish. Still needs a little time to settle down and harmonize -- should be even better with a couple more years of bottle age.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne Brut France, Champagne
Brief notes: Probably suffered in comparison with the '02 Diebolt-Vallois, tasted alongside (see TN), but still a nice bottle. Crisp and fresh with an interesting smoky/nutty flavor note on the midpalate. As others have noted, this is not overly complex or intense, but the bottle sure was emptied quickly.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Launois Pere et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Reservé Blanc des Blancs Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Brief notes: Generally consistent with prior TN. Bright citrus fruit, good intensity, and a smooth mouthfeel that builds to a moderately long, resonant finish. Continues to be one of my favorite values in grower Champagne.

Flight 2 - White Rhône (1 note)

Paired with butternut squash soup

White
2004 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Réserve France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
89 points
Beautiful, rich golden color. Just on the edge of being oxidized at first, this pulled itself together nicely in the glass. Montrachet-like weight and texture. Flavors of bitter orange / orange peel (how much Marsanne in the blend?), peaches, honey, nuts, with a finish that loses a bit of lift and freshness. This is tasty but a bit soft and unfocused at the moment, and may be going through an awkward stage, as so many white CdPs do. I would like to revisit this in a few years.

Flight 3 - White Burgundy (2 notes)

Paired with crab-stuffed shrimp with a lemon vinaigrette friseé

White
2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Désirée France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
90 points
I did not take detailed notes, but this was a lovely, middleweight village Meurasult that is quite marked by new oak at this stage of evolution. Really classy and well-proportioned, with moderately intense (almost understated) fruit. Lafon's village wines are, to my palate, almost always 1er Cru quality and this bottle was no exception. This has future upside if it does not succumb to premox.
White
2007 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
88 points
No detailed notes taken. Nicely intense palate, but missing some of the zing and complexity of other 2007 Chablis I've tasted.

Flight 4 - Red Burgundy (2 notes)

Paired with coq au vin

Red
2004 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
94 points
Murky, cloudy, muddy color. Having tasted through multiple bottles of this, I continue to be impressed by the intensity of flavor and lack of 2004 "greenies". Dense, ripe, and complex, with expansive fruit flavors and forest floor / iron / mineral secondary nuances that are already well-developed. Definitely wins the "ugliest-looking / best-tasting" combo award. WOTN for me.
Red
2002 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
92 points
Initially totallly closed on the nose, and never really opened up fully in the glass. Abundant hints of this wine's stellar pedigree and future potential abound, however: spicy cherry aromatics, silky texture, and elegant, weightless intensity of flavor. Some flavors that I more typically associate with young Vogüés (buttered popcorn?) -- which really just speaks to this wine's youth and need to integrate its oak. Revisit in a minumum of 5 years.

Flight 5 - Interlude (1 note)

Paired with lamb meatballs

Red
1998 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
91 points
Very high-toned, bright red cherry fruit with just a hint of VA. A pretty, lacy middleweight. Smooth, silky, supple texture. A poster child for the virtues of traditionally-styled Rioja.

Flight 6 - Châteauneuf-du-Pape (2 notes)

Paired with "The Dubuquer" (sliced roast beef on bread w/mashed potatoes and gravy)
Not tasted: 2006 Stéphane Vedeau Hermitage Arena Mica

Red
2003 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Renaissance France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
70 points
Pruny, roasted black fruit. Confected and overripe. Heavy, obtrusive alcohol that burns the throat. A chore to drink. Not for me.
Red
2001 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
92 points
Another really nice showing (see TN from last month). Perfumed, exotic spices. Classic red fruit, garrigue herbs, and minerals. Beautifully silky texture.

Flight 7 - Dessert (1 note)

Paired with homemade profiteroles and coffee ice cream

Red
1997 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
92 points
First time I've tasted this since visiting the domaine in 2006. Gorgeous, classic Côte-Rôtie -- so smoky and bacony. Intense smoky red fruit, earth, and minerals, framed by suave, ripe tannins. Added complexity in the glass. Really nicely structured and balanced.
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