Introduction
In Vino Unitas is a group of wineries, most of which have long track records, that have banded together to present and market their wines directly to restaurants, wine shops and other major buyers. Their website asserts that, "Conducting business in this manner allows us to develop more connected and long lasting relationships." In pursuit of that agenda, the group stages periodic tastings for buyers and selected media. The one I attended, at the St. Francis Yacht Club in San Francisco last week, was one of five tastings the group offered over a week-long period in five different locations in California, starting January 24 in Napa and ending in Del Mar on February 2. The participating wineries are: Buoncristiani Family Winery, Chase Family Cellars, Dolce, Ehlers Estate, Far Niente, Gargiulo Vineyards, Gemstone Vineyard, Grgich Hills Estate, Heitz Wine Cellars, Jericho Canyon Vineyard, Krupp Brothers, Larkmead Vineyards, La Sirena, Mayacamas Vineyards, Meyer Family Cellars, Navarro Vineyards, Nickel & Nickel, Quill Wines, Testarossa Vineyards, and Yorba Wines.
Most of these producers I was already familiar with. Some, like Navarro, Grgich and Nickel & Nickel, I've visited over the years. The majority of the producers also participate in the annual Family Winemakers events, which is where I'd first encountered Yorba last year. In the case of a few producers at this event (e.g., Jericho Canyon, La Sirena, Krupp Brothers), I'd recently tasted through their wines at another type of direct marketing event--the SF Vintners Market--aimed at sales to the general public. I posted about that tasting, which occurred last November, here: http://www.rjonwine.com/cabernet-sauvignon/sf-vintners-market/ That November event happened on a very chilly day in San Francisco, at the hard-to-heat Fort Mason Pavillion, right on the water, and a number of wines did not show all that well there due to the "cellar temperature" tasting conditions. I was therefore quite glad to have a chance to re-taste many of those wines here. I found that most all of them I had tasted before did show better at this event, under more typical room temperature conditions. The La Sirena wines, for example, which had been among the best I tasted at the Vintners Market, all showed even better at the Yacht Club. A couple of these producers, on the other hand, are fairly new (e.g., Gargiulo and Quill), so this was my first chance to taste their wines. In all, I tasted 90 wines, which was basically every wine being shown, at a fairly relaxed pace, at least compared to a Family Winemakers event. This gave me a little more time to focus on my notes and to compare, and even re-taste some wines. I think the group does a remarkably good job in organizing these events, and I liked the fact that the crowd was small enough to allow for conversation and interaction with the winemakers and winery representatives.
I came away pleased by the quality of the wines overall, and delighted by how well new releases from '07 and '09 are showing from many producers. The producers responsible for wines that I scored 92 points or higher at this event were: Dolce (under the same ownership group as Far Niente and Nickel & Nickel), Grgich Hills, Heitz, La Sirena, Navarro, Nickel & Nickel, Quill and Yorba. The producers that really stood out for me, for the quality of the wines overall, were Buoncristiani, Heitz, Jericho Canyon, Larkmead, La Sirena, Navarro, Quill and Yorba. My very top wines of the tasting, with ratings 93 points or higher, were:
2006 Dolce Winery Late Harvest
2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard
2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard
2006 La Sirena Syrah Barrett Vineyard
2007 La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon
For my tasting notes and further details about a few particular producers, see below:
Flight 1 - Buoncristiani (4 notes)
Buoncristiani wines are a collaboration amongst four brothers who, collectively, handle the viticulture, winemaking, production, artwork and marketing. Jay Buoncristiani, who is in charge of the winemaking, is making the Gemella wines under his own label. I was particularly impressed with the '07 Cabernet.
Red
2007 Buoncristiani OPC Proprietary Red
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark purple red violet color; subtle oak, ripe plum, cedar, red berry nose; tasty, fresh, tight, ripe red plum, berry palate, needs 2-plus years; medium-plus finish
Red
2007 Buoncristiani Syrah Artistico
USA, California, Napa Valley
Opaque purple red violet color; spicy plum, roasted berry, baking spice nose; ripe plum, berry, black fruit, spice palate; medium-plus finish (16 mos. in 30% new French oak)
Red
2007 Buoncristiani Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark purple red violet color; plum, berry nose; solid, ripe berry, plum palate; medium-plus finish (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec, 1% Merlot; 20 mos. in 80% new French oak)
White
2008 Gemella Wines Viognier
USA, California, Napa Valley
Light yellow color; floral, ripe apple, ripe peach, vanilla nose; tight, tart peach, floral, mineral, green fruit palate; medium finish
Flight 2 - Chase (2 notes)
Flight 3 - Dolce (1 note)
A delicious sweetie, with just the right acid balance.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Dolce Winery Late Harvest
USA, California, Napa Valley
From 375 ml - light golden yellow color; nice, ripe apricot, pear, botrytis nose; tasty, delicious, juicy, tart apricot, ripe apricot, ripe peach, baked peach palate; long finish (90% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc)
Flight 4 - Ehlers (4 notes)
White
2009 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very light yellow color; nice lemon grass, ripe grapefruit nose; tight, tart grapefruit, citrus palate; medium finish 88+ pts. (stainless steel)
Red
2007 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon "1886"
USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
Very dark red violet color; nice cassis, red currant nose with lift; tasty, ripe cassis, red currant, herbal palate, needs 2-plus years; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, plus Petit Verdot and Merlot)
Flight 5 - Far Niente (4 notes)
White
2009 Far Niente Chardonnay
USA, California, Napa Valley
Light lemon yellow color; oak, apple, pineapple nose; oak, apple, pineapple palate with lowish acidity; medium finish
Red
2009 EnRoute Pinot Noir Les Pommiers
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Dark cherry red color; oak, smoke, red berry nose; smoke, oak, red berry palate; medium finish 85+ pts.
Red
2008 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Oakville
USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Pre-release - very dark red violet color; cassis, smoke, red berry nose; ripe berry, tart red berry, cassis palate; medium finish (93-95% Cabernet Sauvignon, plus Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot)
Flight 6 - Gargiulo (3 notes)
Red
2007 Gargiulo Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon G Major Seven Study
USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Very dark red violet color; nice ripe berry, blackberry, plum nose; plush, soft, berry, raspberry, blackberry, plum palate, ready to drink now; medium-plus finish (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Merlot)
Flight 7 - Gemstone (3 notes)
Red
2007 Gemstone Facets
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red violet color; tight, tart black fruit, oak, espresso nose; tight, ripe, blackberry, espresso, black fruit palate, needs 2-plus years; medium finish (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot)
Red
2007 Gemstone G
USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
Dark purple red violet color; mint, sweet oak, mint chocolate nose; mint chocolate, ripe black fruit, blackberry, oak palate; medium-plus finish 88+ pts. (20 mos. in 70% new French oak; 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.5% Merlot, 3.5% Petit Verdot)
Red
2006 Gemstone G
USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
Dark purple red violet color; smoke, tar, tart berry nose; tasty, tart black fruit, tar, espresso palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot)
Flight 8 - Grgich Hills (8 notes)
Red
2007 Grgich Hills Zinfandel
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark purple red violet color; oak, red berry nose; soft, ripe red berry, oak palate; short-medium finish
Red
2006 Grgich Hills Merlot
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red violet color; tart black fruit, plum, oak nose; oak, black fruit palate; medium finish
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Grgich Hills Violetta Late Harvest
USA, California, Napa Valley
Light medium chartreuse yellow color; focused vanilla, pear, baked pear, peach nose; tasty, rich, ripe pear, ripe peach, tart orange, mineral palate with good acidity; long finish
Flight 9 - Heitz (8 notes)
This is, of course, a legendary producer, and the Martha's Vineyard Cabernet is one of the most distinctive Cabernets in California. The '05 Trailside and Martha's Vineyard were both gorgeous young Cabs, and the Sauvignon Blanc is one of the better California SBs I've tasted in the last couple years.
White
2009 Heitz Cellar Sauvignon Blanc
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very light green-tinged yellow color; lemon grass, lime nose; tasty, tart lime, citrus, lemon grass palate with good acidity; medium finish
White
2008 Heitz Cellar Chardonnay
USA, California, Napa Valley
Light green tinged yellow color; green apple, green herb nose; tart green apple, citrus palate with medium acidity; medium finish
Red
2007 Heitz Cellar Zinfandel
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark purple rd violet color; tart berry, red plum nose; tight, ripe red plum, berry, blackberry, oak palate; medium-plus finish 88+ pts.
Red
2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red violet color; ripe cassis, red plum nose; tasty, tart cassis, red plum palate, needs 2-plus years; medium-plus finish
Red
2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Bella Oaks
USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
Medium dark red violet color; herbaceous, eucalyptus, tart cassis nose; tasty, tight, eucalyptus, tart cassis palate, needs 3-5 years; medium-plus finish 91+ pts.
Flight 10 - Jericho Canyon (3 notes)
Red
2006 Jericho Canyon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red violet color; tart plum, berry nose; tight, tart berry, plum palate, needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot; 20 mos. in 80% new French oak)
Flight 11 - Krupp Brothers (5 notes)
Red
2007 Krupp Brothers Estates The Doctor
USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
Very dark red violet color; roasted red plum, herbal, red berry nose; tart red fruit, herbal, red plum palate; medium finish (Tempranillo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)
Red
2006 Stagecoach Cabernet Sauvignon Veraision Krupps Brothers Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark red violet color; roasted red fruit, currant, oak nose; soft, silky textured, ripe cassis, red currant palate; medium finish (83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc)
Flight 12 - Larkmead (4 notes)
Red
2008 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red violet color; olive, tart black fruit nose; tasty, olive, tart black fruit, bay leaf palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot)
Red
2007 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark red violet color; tart red fruit, cedar, slightly herbaceous nose; tasty, concentrated, tart red currant, cassis, red berry palate; medium-plus finish (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc)
Flight 13 - La Sirena (6 notes)
Heidi Barrett, flanked by her beautiful daughters Remy and Chelsea
I was very glad to get to try these wines again, under non-freezing room conditions. A very impressive line up across the board, as one might expect from someone with Heidi's long and impressive track record. The Syrahs each had a different flavor profile. The Barrett Vineyard Syrah was the single best, but all were good. The Cabernet is also terrific.
White
2009 La Sirena Moscato Azul
USA, California, Napa Valley
Light yellow color; nice orange blossom, peach nose; tasty, tart peach, orange blossom, orange palate with good acidity; medium finish 91+ pts. (good food wine)
Red
2006 La Sirena Syrah Barrett Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley, Calistoga
Dark red violet color; roasted red fruit, smoke nose; tasty, smoke, tart black fruit, chocolate palate, with fig on medium-plus finish
Red
2006 La Sirena Syrah
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red violet color; herbal, roasted plum nose; tasty, tart black fruit, roasted black fruit, smoke, meaty palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.
Red
2006 La Sirena Syrah Barrett Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley, Calistoga
Dark purple red violet color; oak, herbal, roasted plum nose; tasty, tart black fruit, roasted plum, charcoal, tar palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.
Red
2007 La Sirena Pirate TreasuRed
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red violet color; smoke, tar, tart black fruit nose; tasty, tart black fruit, tart plum, charcoal, tar palate; medium-plus finish (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Grenache; 40% new French oak for 22 mos.)
Red
2007 La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red violet color; green herb, black fruit, tar, charcoal nose; tasty, rich, tart black fruit, charcoal, tar palate; long finish (86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc; much better than when I had it in the very cold Fort Mason tasting a few months back, as was the whole La Sirena lineup)
Flight 14 - Mayacamas (4 notes)
White
2007 Mayacamas Vineyards Chardonnay
USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
Light yellow color; nice ripe lemon, peach nose; tart apple, tart peach palate; medium finish 88+ pts. (6 mos. in American oak, then 1 year in French oak, 10% new)
Red
2005 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
Dark red violet color; cassis, menthol, herbaceous nose; tart cassis, herbaceous, menthol palate with medium acidity, needs 4-5 years; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc; 1.5 years in large oak barrels, 1 year in 60 gallon oak barrels)
Red
2006 Mayacamas Vineyards Merlot
USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
Dark cherry red color; nice wild berry, blackberry, black fruit nose; tasty, tart berry, currant, wild berry palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon; 6 mos. in large oak casks, then 1 year in small barriques)
Flight 15 - Meyer Family (4 notes)
Rosé
2010 Meyer Family Cellars Dry Rose of Syrah
USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
Barrel sample, to be bottled the following wee - smoky, tart berry, cranberry nose; smoky, tart cranberry, red berry palate; medium finish (with 15% Petite Sirah)
Red
2006 Meyer Family Cellars Syrah
USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
Dark purple red violet color; tart black fruit, smoke, charcoal nose; sweet black fruit, charcoal palate; medium finish 88+ pts.
Flight 16 - Navarro (7 notes)
Navarro wines have to be among the most consistent, and fairly priced wines, year after year in California. Their Gewürz is always one of the best in California, and the Pinots and other varietals are strong too.
White
2008 Navarro Vineyards Gewürztraminer
USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Light green tinged yellow color; lovely roses, light grapefruit nose; tasty, tart grapefruit, roses, mineral palate with zingy acidity; medium finish
White
2009 Navarro Vineyards Muscat Blanc
USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Pale yellow color; light honeydew melon, apple, orange blossom nose; tasty, tart apple, orange blossom, mineral, citrus palate with near medium acidity; medium finish 90+ pts.
Red
2007 Navarro Vineyards Zinfandel
USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
Medium dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; big red berry, floral, blackberry nose; poised, red berry, tart blackberry, minerally palate with near medium acidity, needs 3-plus years; medium finish
Red
2008 Navarro Vineyards Navarrouge
USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
Dark scarlet red color; smoke, roasted berry nose; smoke, tart roasted red berry palate with medium acidity; short-medium finish (90% Syrah, 10% Zinfandel)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2007 Navarro Vineyards Riesling Cluster Select Late Harvest
USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Medium apricot color; rich tart apricot, ripe peach, ripe mandarin orange nose; tasty, ripe apricot, tart apricot, ripe peach, mandarin orange, mineral palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (205 grams RS)
Flight 17 - Nickel & Nickel (4 notes)
Red
2007 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Vogt Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
Very dark red violet color; berry, eucalyptus, plum nose; tasty, tight, tart plum, eucalyptus, berry palate, needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.
Flight 18 - Quill (5 notes)
Shana Graham, owner of Quill Wines
Quill was the newest producer represented at the tasting. Ehren Jordan is now making the wines, at his Failla Winery, and the '07 Diamond Mountain Cab and '07 Bismark Mountain Ranch Syrah were particularly strong.
Red
2007 Quill Wines Syrah Bismark Mountain Ranch
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Opaque purple red violet color; big, floral, baked berry, baked raspberry, oak nose; oak, ripe red berry, smoke, Chinese red bean, green herb palate; medium finish
Red
2006 Quill Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain
USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
Very dark red violet color; high pitched, floral, ripe cassis, red berry, raspberry nose; plush, berry, blackberry palate, with low acidity; medium finish
Flight 19 - Testarossa (5 notes)
Flight 20 - Yorba (5 notes)
Ann Kraemer, on the left above, is the viticulturalist for Ken Bernards, of Ancien, so Ken makes the wines for Ann. I tasted the Yorba wines for the first time at Family Winemakers last year, and wrote then that it's a strong lineup, and that the Tempranillo is the best I've tasted from California. Definitely a producer to watch.
Red
2007 Yorba Barbera
USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Dark red violet color; herbal, red berry, tart plum nose; tasty, tart red plum, herbal palate; medium finish 89+ pts.
Red
2006 Yorba Zinfandel
USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Dark purple red violet color; nice spicy, berry, black fruit, tar nose; tasty, poised, ripe black fruit, blackberry palate with subtle herbs; medium finish (82% Zinfandel, 18% Petite Sirah)
Red
2006 Yorba Syrah
USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Opaque red violet color; nice, ripe black fruit, floral, licorice nose; tart, plush black fruit, tart berry palate, soft and rich; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.
Red
2007 Yorba Tempranillo
USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Dark purple red violet color; nice ripe berry, spice, blue plum, licorice nose; tasty, lovely, ripe plum, berry palate, delicious now but should be humming in 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano)
Red
2007 Yorba Shake Ridge Red
USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Dark purple red violet color; spicy red plum, floral, raspberry nose; tasty, plush, poised, red raspberry, spicy red plum palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (31% Syrah, 28% Primitivo, 18% Petite Sirah, 10% Mourvedre, 7% Malbec, 6% Merlot)
Closing