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Lieu-dit Cru "Blind White" Dinner Featured the Wine of Henri Boillot
L2O - Chicago IL
Tasted September 10, 2012 by Burgundy Al with 687 views
Introduction
The Lieu-dit Cru, my Burgundy tasting group, convened for our mostly annual "blind white" dinner. One main theme, organized in very narrowly defined flights, with a few ringers thrown in to maximize the confusion. Our pal, Gridrocker organized this dinner around the wines from a somewhat controversial producer of both domaine and negociant wines, M. Henri Boillot. But the wines must speak for themselves and they mostly spoke very well indeed (other than the obligatory 2 corked and 2 prematurely oxidized bottles, out of 19).
All of the white Burgundies were opened around 3:30 PM, assessed for cork taint, then the corks re-inserted. First white Burgundy flight was served at approximately 7 PM, with about 45 minutes in between each subsequent flight.
Another sensational meal at L2O, with every course matching wonderfully with the wine.
Flight 1 - Champagne to Start (2 notes)
Served with Geoduck Clam, Manilla Clam, Lime
White - Sparkling
N.V. Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs Côte de Val Vilaine
90 points
Great side-by-side comparison tonight with another Bouchard NV Blanc de Noirs, the La Parcelle. Val Vilaine started with concentrated fruit aromas and a bready, yeasty character. Palate also showed good concentration but that toasty/yeasty character was in the forefront and was a bit one dimensional.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs La Parcelle Côte de Béchalin
91 points
Great side-by-side comparison with another Bouchard Blanc de Noirs, the Val Vilaine. This iwne was slightly floral with apple aromas and some strawberry hints. Somewhat lean fruit on palate but an overall vibrant character, then some hints of sweetness at the very end. I slightly preferred this to Val Vilaine, but most others disagreed tonight, but I generally prefer a brighter styled Champagne and the Val Vilaine had a more intense toasty, yeasty element.
Flight 2 - Puligny-Montrachet "Clos de la Mouchère" (5 notes)
Served with Tuna, Avocado, Caviar
White
2001 Jean Boillot & Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
93 points
Tasted blind in a flight of Boillot Mouchère. Huge floral start, fair amount of good oak spice and some apple and peach. Similar fruit profile on palate that showed modest advancement, in a very impressive place for a 2001, with equally impressive supporting acidity. My 2nd favorite of the flight, almost everybody's 1st or 2nd favorite along with the wonderful 2005.
White
1986 Jean Boillot & Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
85 points
Tasted single blind a vertical flight of Boillot Mouchère. Tired. Drinkable, but not exciting in context of the flight.
White
2005 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
94 points
Tasted blind in a vertical flight of Boillot Mouchère, Spice-driven start with good floral, new oak and mint contributions along with fat, lush stone fruit. Peach and apricot flavors, very rounded, fat, lush and powerful. My favorite of the flight, and most people had this as either their favorite or 2nd favorite tonight. An impressive 2005 that is in its peak drinking window now and should drink well for another 5+ years.
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White
1996 Jean Boillot & Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
90 points
Single blind in a vertical flight of Boillot Mouchère. Good floral start with mature fruit. Easy to enjoy. Time to drink up.
White
2002 Jean Boillot & Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
Modest orchard fruit and spice, similar to the others in the flight but shorter and simpler. Flawed bottle perhaps? 89 point wine tonight.
Flight 3 - Corton Charlemagne (4 notes)
Served with Risotto, Hearts of Palm, Black Truffle
White
2005 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne
94 points
Tasted blind in a (mostly) Boillot Corton-Charlemagne flight. An exceptional Corton-Charlemagne with lots of classic and intense character. Apple and lemon aromas with plenty of oak spice. Great density and intensity on palate, but also sensational acidity, energy and minerality. Long and powerful finish. Still has some upside from here, but close to its peak drinking window.
White
2004 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne Quintessence
93 points
Tasted blind in what was supposed to be a (mostly) Boillot Corton-Charlemagne flight. Lush and powerful aromas of stone and tropical fruit along with bursts of new oak spice. Also lush fruit on palate, subtlety supported by good acidity.
Flight 4 - Montrachet (3 notes)
Served with Black Bass, Black Olive, Tomato, Basil.
White
1999 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Le Montrachet
97 points
Served blind in a Montrachet flight. Incredible perfumed and floral start with great orchard and citrus aromas. Ripe fruit on palate with lemon and lemon peel coming through at end with a very long, intense and balanced finish. Wow! Even better when our group had this same wine 3 years ago, then also served blind in a 1999 Montrachet flight. Sadly, my last bottle.
White
2001 Henri Boillot Montrachet
90 points
Tasted blind in a Montrachet flight. Slightly advanced aromas and flavors of apple and pear. Slightly lean, well textured, but short with a moderate finish. Somewhat lost sitting in between the amazing 1999s from Boillot and Girardin. Still not nearly as good as a great bottle (from the same case) I opened in January. Sigh...that's white Burgundy.
White
1999 Henri Boillot Montrachet
93 points
Served blind in a Montrachet flight. Ripe orchard fruit, with plenty of new oak, floral character and baking spice in support. Beautiful wine, even if classically Le Montachet. Great power and concentration. Mature, ripe character makes me think this probably isn't a long-term cellar hold from here. Better than the last bottle I opened last summer.
Flight 5 - Chevalier-Montrachet (4 notes)
Served with Turbot, Andouillette, Galette, Bibb Lettuce, Metelote Normande
White
2000 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet
90 points
Tasted blind in a Chevalier-Montrachet flight. Fat and ripe, seemingly more Batard-like to me tonight than Chevalier. Fruit was moderately advanced on palate, not quite as fresh as the best 2000s I've had this year.
White
2002 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot
flawed
My good luck streak with this wine this year has come to an end. Oxidized.
White
2001 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet
92 points
Tasted blind in Chevalier-Montrachet flight. Big stone fruit start with slightly pronounced new oak. Dense fruit start on palate, finishing more classically with precision and energy. Much like another bottle I opened earlier this year.
White
2002 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet
94 points
Slightly floral start with lots of ripe and concentrated orchard fruit with background spice. Apple and pear flavors, slightly sweet, very intense. Great power from middle to end. Very balanced and integrated.
Flight 6 - 2004 (3 notes)
Served with Lobster Tail, Beef, Spring Onion, Brioche, Sauce Civet
White
2004 Henri Boillot Montrachet
95 points
Tasted blind in a Boillot 2004 flight. Some overt new oak to start with great orchard fruit aromas. Fat, lush and spicy from start-to-finish with an expanding, powerful finish that shows the same orchard fruit as well as some lemon and lemon peel. Fantastic side-by-side with the Chevalier-Montrachet.
White
2004 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet
96 points
Apple, pear aromas with hint of lemon zest. Simultaneously powerful and precise, with great energy and textured. A very refined wine.
Flight 7 - After Dinner...Back to Gary's Cellar (2 notes)
Red
1969 Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Earthy start but also muddy. Faded quickly. Not sure if this is representative of a wine past its peak or just a bad bottle.
Red
1976 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia
92 points
Aromas of mushroom, earth, leather, figs. Mature black fruit on paalte with very good textures, balance. Will keep for a long time going forward. Not quite as exciting as the 1976 Bosconia I've had a couple of times in the past year.