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Pebbles Dinner

Chez Bruce, Wandsworth, London

Tasted September 13, 2012 by Rupert with 698 views

Introduction

Keith Prothero's annual charity event where he raids his cellar for some top bottles. Chez Bruce provided some inspirational matches to the wines. The highs were very very high indeed, most notably the 59 Pol Roger, the 71 Scharzhofberger, the Chave 72 and the amazing 1830 Malmsey

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1959 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
(From magnum) Hardly any fizz, but hardly any sign of oxidation either. Enticing scents of spice, ginger, biscuits on the nose, and then on the palate, serene, poised. Utterly wonderful.

Flight 2 - with Piquillo pepper stuffed with langoustine brandade, sauce nero and crisp squid (4 notes)

White - Off-dry
1971 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Fat, big kerosene nose, amazing richness and acidity - gorgeous penetrating wine, stunning
White - Off-dry
1989 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune Vendanges Tardives France, Alsace
Reticent nose, and not wholly clean, fat, massive, quite sweet - too heavy, I thought
White
1976 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune France, Alsace
Lean, strong green pepper tone, fresh, intense, rather grand, lacking a bit of harm
White
1959 Grower unknown Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Salmon pink and a touch cloudy, this was gentle and plump, but finished with a surprising grip - really lovely

Flight 3 - with Yorkshire grouse, creamed spelt, thyme and damsons (4 notes)

Red
1978 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
A bit sweet and sweaty, soft. Past it, sadly. Previous bottles have had much more life.
Red
1990 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Dusty, fresh, spicy, tannic - there's a lot of substance here, and a fine piney backbone, but still somewhat severe
Red
1993 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
flawed
Corked
Red
1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Dark and muscular for a Rousseau, very classy, fabulous, but this is one which really does need more time

Flight 4 - with Roast turbot, puy lentils, pomerol sauce and bone marrow wafer (4 notes)

Red
1982 Château Mouton Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Hot and oxidised on the nose, but much more impressive on the palate, massively structured, substantial, and with a refreshing medicinal streak
Red
1982 Château La Mission Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
An absolute classic grand claret, cool graphite fruit, all perfectly proportioned, still young
Red
1989 Château Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Not a flashy wine, but it's clear immediately that this is very special, alluring tobacco nose, smooth and infinitely nuanced on the palate, super
Red
1985 Château Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Hard to follow the 1989 - this was a smooth, a bit milky in fact, although there was plenty of grip at the end - very nice claret, but not special like the 89.

Flight 5 - with Best end of lamb, squash purée, sautéed sweetbreads, spiced cumin meat juices (and almonds for the nut-eaters) (3 notes)

Red
1967 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Pale, curry powder nose, cloudy and sherried on the palate - has seen better days.
Red
1972 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Wow. Tobacco, smoke, bacon, mellow fruit on the palate, but searing acidity driving the flavour into every corner. Thrilling.
Red
1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
flawed
Corked, I think, even if only marginally. All round muted.

Flight 6 - with Cherry and vanilla tartlet with iced lemon curd parfait (2 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1942 Château Climens France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Dark orange, waxy, high toned, still showing amazing energy. Super
White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Has an acrid tone, but the texture is gorgeous, and there's a strong acid spine here - very enjoyable

Flight 7 - with Gorgonzola cremificato and warm chestnut honey (and walnuts for the nut eaters) (1 note)

White - Fortified
1830 Quinta do Serrado Madeira Malmsey Portugal, Madeira
Extraordinary. One of the most powerful, majestic tasting experiences I've had - tangy, sharp, but round and caramelly too. And it goes on and on and on.
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