Annual Pilgrimage to Piedmont
Piedmont, Italy
Tasted October 5, 2012 - October 7, 2012 by Papies with 910 views
Introduction
What begun as a visit to the truffle fair 5 years ago has now become an annual ritual to the point that the same exact plan is followed ( true for the last 3 years) every year. Our base is the wonderful Relais San Maurizio at Santo Stefano Belbo which overlooks the moscato vineyards of the vignaioli Di santo Stefano who bottle in their signature bottles. Shame this year room prices were jacked up is high but still worthy location.www.relaissanmaurizio.it/ . Book early
Flight 1 - La Torre Degli Aquila, Pavia (1 note)
A good tratoria in the nice town of Pavia and makes for a great stop on the way to Piedmont from milan. http://latorredegliaquila.it/torre.htm
Red
2004 Triacca Sforzato di Valtellina San Domenico
Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Sforzato di Valtellina
No decanting.Dense, dark red. On the nose a surge of dark cherries from the start, open with light earthy, meaty notes. On the palate it is fleshy, with depth. Granted it has it's flaws but still a proper bottle and good for the price. 89-91
Flight 2 - Guido da Costiglione at Relais San Maurizio, Santo Stefano Belbo (8 notes)
A great restaurant situated in the cellars of Relais San Maurizio. Good inspired food, truffles and a wine cellar second only to the great Ciau del Tornavento. www.guidosanmaurizio.com/
White - Sparkling
2007 Ca' D'Gal Moscato d'Asti Vigna Vecchia
Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
Opens with a light petrolly nose, gone are the exuberant aromatics of youth, this is more mature, evolved and elegant. On the palate, the bubbles are almost gone and it has a mature round feel to it. The fruit is now evolved and it's an interesting expression of muscat. The young vibrant wine is long gone this is an altogether different proposition
White - Sparkling
2008 Ca' D'Gal Moscato d'Asti Vigna Vecchia
Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
Much like the 2007 the vibrant aromatics of youth are gone. Replaced by a petrolly, Riesling like nose, restrained and elegant. On the palate it exhibits a bit more vibrancy than the 2007 but here too the bubbles are almost gone. Light on the acidity. Mature fruit, evolved, light bodied yet serious wine.
White
1993 Cantina Terlan Chardonnay Rarity
Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano
Wow! Light decanting to kick start what is a superb, elegant symphony. Good colour, glossy. On the nose it has a smoky, meaty feel that integrates well with the fruit, light exotic notes. On the palates it has a creamy feel almost to an old champagne but it is very much alive and vibrant. Well aged and simply stunning , full bodied and works very well with food. 12.5% alc. We couldn't help but buy 3 more bottles to take home. 95 easy
Red
1990 Azienda Bricco Asili (Ceretto) Barbaresco Bricco Asili
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Requires decanting, and although the colour talks of a mature wine with nice bricking , the nose and palate are still vibrant. Nebbiolo aromatics intertwine with light earth( were really expecting a lot more earthy notes) , good red fruit notes . Open and long on the nose. On the palate it is still very much a vibrant wine, with good tannin and fruit on the mid palate. Really surprising how alive it is. Well balance and long on the finish but lack a bit of complexity and depth. 93 and this can last for a lot more
Red
1999 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Big, dense, powerful wine with a 14.5% alc to match. On the nose it has a lot of extracted fruit, sweet fruit almost stewed fruit feel and a bit on the overdone side. On the palate it is powerful and with firm tannin but at the moment it has a touch too much of a sweet core on it which spoils the balance. Would suggest a good hour of decanting. 91-92
Spirits
N.V. Marolo Grappa 12 Years Old
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Quite a bit of colour, golden amber. The nose sings and this is probably the better of the 3 we tried. On the palate it is strong yet round with no harshness. Really an amazing grappa.
Spirits
N.V. Gaja Grappa Rossj-Bass
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
No colour at all. intense, sharp, focussed with a little eau de vie nose. The zero dosage of grappas.
Spirits
2000 Berta Bric del Gaian
Italy, Piedmont, Asti
Dark in colour,dark caramel, aged barrel colour.Well round and smooth, easier on the palate with little sharp elements. Very aromatic and enjoyable.
Flight 3 - Visit to Cantina Giovanni Rosso, Serralunga d'Alba (5 notes)
David Berry Green of BBR said this is a producer we should definitely visit and indeed it was a great introduction. Davide Rosso runs the operation and makes for a great host and has the passion that led him to start bottling their wines rather than selling fruit. The wines are of purity and balance, no over extraction here, no barrique, no liquorice but pure Serralunga fruit with its. Characteristic minerality. Davide took as round the La Serra vineyard and indeed the care he shows to quality of the fruit is evident with wide spaced vine, decent green harvesting and this vintage was sporting wonderful red berries. We would recommend the visit but also the wines and although we only tried the 2008s we would look for older vintages.if you like classical barolos Davide is your man. www.giovannirosso.com/
Red
2010 Giovanni Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Tasted at the Cantina with Davide Rosso.
Light in colour. Young, fresh, on the fruit with a good helping of red fruit early on. Forward and made to be consumed young. No need for extraction here or overdone characteristics. Entry level wine. 85 and drink sooner than later
Red
2008 Giovanni Rosso Barolo
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
At the Cantina, with Davide Rosso
Decent colour. True to the ideals of Davide Rosso, this is a very balanced Barolo, no oak, nothing overdone and very well balanced . Light on the nose, mineral more than fruit driven. 88
Red
2008 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Cerretta
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
At the Cantina, with Davide Rosso
Good colour. Open on the nose, with good floral notes, light fruit, mineral. Very pure and elegant, feminine according to Davide Rosso and in a way we agree, a more lighter body version yet ever so harmonious and elegant. This is very good even in its youth 92
Red
2008 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Serra
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
At the Cantina, with Davide Rosso
Eclipsed by the beautiful Cerretta that we tried before, still this true to form pure, no oak, balanced Barolo with a lot of future ahead. Granted it is young and it could use another couple of years in bottle but still the fruit is their and so is the balance and elegance. Minerality, good acidity , firm but not harsh tannins and full of future. 91 for now but full of promise.
Red
2008 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Tommaso Canale Vigna Rionda
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
At the Cantina, with Davide Rosso
Begun in the hands of his late cousin and inherited by Davide Rosso in 2010 this is the prime jewel for Davide Rosso in his stable. On the darker side in colour, yet with the same characteristic balance and elegance, no oaky notes no over extracted dark fruits. Textbook serralunga minerality, strong firm tannin and much like the La Serra full of promise for the future. 91for now
Flight 4 - La Ciau del Tornavento , Treiso (7 notes)
The MUST visit in Piemonte and probably among the best restaurants we have ever visited. Excellent food , Chef Maurillio is always on location, a mix of culinary excellence and local produce . The wine cellar is a fairy land with pretty much any wine one might desire ( including a vertical of Yquem) with a big focus on the local wines. The sommelier is very knowledgable and it is a shame not to be consulted. Don't leave before you visit the cellar and of course without trying the Nutella ravioli ( better per order) . www.laciaudeltornavento.it/
White
2008 Coppo Chardonnay Costebianche
Italy, Piedmont, Piemonte DOC
Dark in colour, aged Chardonnay . Mature fruit on the nose, light smoky feel, oaky notes and maturity. On the palate it has good acidity, and is very fat and rich. A touch overdone maybe but still quite enjoyable. 88
White
2003 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Opened 2 bottles as the first one was oxidised.
Dark yellow gold in colour, a bit muted though. On the nose u feel the age with lots of mature fruit, light meaty notes. Palate wise it is a full rich wine, full of presence and requires a bit of food with it. Granted it has seen better days and one should have this sooner than later. 92
Red
1999 Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
The colour shows its age and has a decent bricking on the rim. The nose starts of open and full of life, with fruit, earthy notes, mushrooms and ever the light touches of wood. However it sort of dissipates as time goes by and leaves behind a flattish wine. On the palate it is well round, full on secondary and has nothing to do with its sibling the Alceo which is a full of life wine. Enjoyable still but we would suggest one has this sooner than later. We wonder wether the introduction of Rampollas super Cuvée Vigna de Alceo has robbed the Sammarco of its longevity..... 91 from us
Red
1998 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A true to form great Barolo . Requires decanting to open up and develop (a good couple of hours). Elegant nose of red and dark fruit with a nice sweet core, light wood notes. Very primary still and very much alive. On the palate it is firm, vibrant with good tannin and developed nicely in the glass as we observed it. Very elegant and complex this is a full of life and future Barolo . 95
Red
2001 Pianpolvere Soprano Barolo Riserva Bussia
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
We believe this is operated by Rocche dei Manzoni. Need a bit of decanting. Full on alive singing nose from the start, fruit, light oak, even touches of earth and floral element. On the palate it is now well round even silky but yet with a firm feel to it and this has a lot of life ahead of it. Very good indeed.93
Red
2000 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Young and tight and requires a lot of decanting at this stage to open up and develop. Unfortunately we did not have such luxury of time and thus we only saw glimpses of what must be a superb Barolo . Elegant yet reserved we will reserve judgement for another time.
Flight 5 - Guido da Costiglione at Relais San Maurizio, Santo Stefano Belbo (2 notes)
As above
White - Sparkling
2011 Saracco Moscato d'Autunno
Italy, Piedmont, Asti
Young fresh and full of life. Good moscato with beautiful aromatics. Light on the body and would have liked to see some more presence on the mid palate but a very enjoyable moscato non the less . 87
Red
1998 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Riserva Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Usually this is a high performing wine especially the 2000 and 20001 vintages. The 1998 felt muted with still quite a bit of oak. The fruit is muted and although firm on the palate still it is closed and not giving. I'm general for us the Vigna Capella Di S Stefano is a superb wine and great value but this bottle was not up to standard. 91, if u lucky go for the 2000 one.
Flight 6 - Trattoria Antica Torre, Barbaresco (3 notes)
A beautiful trattoria in the centre of Barbaresco underneath the old tower and facing the cantina of the Produttori Dei Barbabresco. If the timing is right much like this year for us the producers will be unloading and crashing the harvest as you are eating! The food is local style mamas cuisine always super delicious and good value. The wine list offers good gems like old PdB riservas at very good prices. Another must visit. www.weimax.com/antica-torre-barbaresco.htm
Red
1995 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
The colour shows its age with good bricking around the rim. The wine was decanted and served. On start the nose was muted and we even served it in larger glasses to help it but in the end the only expression we got was of an old
musty, mushroomy wine well past it's peak. Maybe it was the bottle but sat there facing the cantina of the of the produtori Di barbaresco from the great trattoria Antica Torre while the 2012 harvest was uploaded and we were so hoping for more. Old and past it best. 87
Red
1996 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Nicol calls this the price vs quality arbitrage in barbaresco. And this 1996 did not let us down along with it sibling from 1998 that we had side by side. Elegant open on the nose , soft fruit ever the lightest touch of earthy notes. Wonderful aromatics which however sort of tailed off after 30 minutes in the glass ( unlike the 98 which never lost its vitality). On the plate it possessed a nice balance, good fruit, very elegant and with good vibrant tannins. Shame the nose died away. 91-92, drink sooner
Red
1998 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Side by side with its sibling the 1996. Decanted and served. Lots of fine sediment. The nose sings from the start, light soft red fruit, light earthy notes to begin and finish with some darker fruit notes. A touch floral maybe? Unlike the 96 the nose remained opened for the duration. On the palate the balance and elegance that only a good barbaresco can deliver is here and the wine it is still vibrant and has the capacity to age quite a bit more. Good on the mid plate too and we can only complain that it was a bit short on the finish. 92-93+ drink now but it can last a few more years easily
Closing
Another great trip and not even the late drama with flat tyres couldn't wipe the smile off our faces! Till next year!
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