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An evening of Barolo and screening of The Barolo Boys

Old World Deli, Bellingham, WA

Tasted November 14, 2015 by Chaz Bham with 500 views

Introduction

A fun and informative evening with several bottles spanning the stylistic spectrum of Barolo. The Barolo Boys film had interviews with many of the producers/winemakers represented tonight.

Flight 1 (9 notes)

Red
1996 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This bottle was given ample air time beforehand, and was open for sampling. Some hints of modernity, but not excessively so. This '96 showed really well, with full fruit primarily of dark cherry tones, tobacco, and balanced oak. Overall, I thought this was well made, and it was enjoyed around the table.
Red
1997 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Medium red and translucent in the glass. Earthy cherry tones on the nose and the palate. Slightly less complex than the Voerzio tasted just preceding. Aging in botte, with more traditional vinification. This particular bottle was quite youthful, and drank in line with its adolescent age. Fine tannins, with no rough edges, but you could surmise some additional years would add some benefit.

It was interesting to stand this next to the Voerzio, and the differences were not as great as we all expected, given the advance reputation.
Red
1999 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Initially the most reticent and austere of the initial lineup. As the evening progressed, this bottle noticeably opened up. More traditional in style than the Cavallotto preceding it, with a step up in acidity, and coarser tannins. Somewhat challenging for those not accustomed to the traditional style but nonetheless readily enjoyed by everyone this evening.
Red
1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Initially reticent, but later in the evening I caught a stunning floral nose. Sampled throughout the evening, this bottle had wonderful subtlety and complexity. There is a finesse of the elements and their interplay with the resolved tannins that sets a bottle like this above the rest. Gentle tones of orange peel and marmalade that the other bottles did not have. I thought this element was unusual but a welcome chromatic feature of the palate. Balanced red fruit, earth, and dried herbs, all with remarkable finesse. A distinctive wine, drinking beautifully.
Red
2000 Monchiero Barolo Rocche Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Attractive and open nose. Medium red in the glass with balanced red fruit. Well made and pleasurable, drinking well this evening. Traditional style of vinification, 3 years in large botti.
Red
2000 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A really stark difference to taste this after the regal Monprivato. If Chiara Boschis set out to make a modern Barolo, she certainly accomplished that. Truly in the vein of the international style. Opacity, extraction, vanilla oak - it's all there. On this evening, this bottle added a nice contrast, representing one side of the spectrum. Certainly the subject of lively conversation. Chiara Boschis is featured prominently in the film The Barolo Boys, as a proponent of the modern Barolo style.
Red
2000 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Thanks WST for this nice bottle, open and expressive tonight. The palate was the most immediately complex of the lineup, with lots of elements of earth and mushroom overlying the balanced red fruit. This bottle seemed youthful and adolescent, and I believe this has years to go at this level. Delicious.
Red
2000 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Open and expressive after 8 hours of slow-ox air time. Both of the Mascarellos (Giuseppe and Bartolo) showed very well this evening. What is remarkable with these two bottles is that the finesse and the subtle interplay of elements really is at another level. Both can be considered reference point producers for Barolo, yet distinctly different. The Bartolo's palate profile is a lesson in subtlety. If you're not paying attention, you'll miss it. All the seams finely stitched, everything in the right place. As beautiful and balanced adolescent Barolo as one can imagine. Magnificent.
Red
2000 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The only wine this evening that appeared advanced for age, with obvious bricking. Reduced currant and cherry tones, with notes of licorice and leather, and some redeeming tertiary elements. Vanilla oak tones were present, but not as noticeable as the E.Pira.
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