2007 France Trip - Beaucastel, Ferrand, Vielle Julienne, Grand Veneur
Southern Rhone
Tasted May 9, 2007 by Siggy with 2,053 views
Flight 1 - Chateau de Beaucastel (8 notes)
Our first appointment of the day was at Beaucastel – a repeat visit for me. As was the case last year, we were met by Beaucastel’s sommelier, the highly entertaining and animated Fabrice Langlois, who gave us a great overview of the history of the domaine, its terroirs, and its winemaking philosophy. Fabrice is a man with many interesting analogies. My favorite: “Chateauneuf-du-Pape is orchestral music, and Picpoul is the triangle.” I thought all of the Beaucastel wines showed well.
Red
2001 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
High-toned red fruits and tea on the nose. Complex flavors of animal, cherries, earth, and char. Open at first, then started to close down. Reminded me of the 1989 that we tried from magnum at dinner the previous evening. Excellent.
Red
1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
My second taste of this wine in less than 24 hours. Soft, lush red fruits. Feminine, perfumed nose. Rhubarb and baking spices. Earthy and complex. Less dark than the magnum we tasted the previous night. Fantastic.
Flight 2 - Domaine de Ferrand (5 notes)
We met with Philippe Bravay, who tasted us through his 2006s and 2005s. This producer is deservedly generating some buzz and seems to be on the upswing. I was impressed with his lineup of wines.
Red
2006 Domaine de Ferrand Côtes du Rhône La Ferrande
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Barrel sample; 4 barrels of “experimental” 100% Syrah. Black. Viscous and glass-staining. Sweet dark chocolate and crushed blackberries. Primal and inky. Impressive.
Red
2006 Domaine de Ferrand Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Tank sample. 95% Grenache. Slightly fizzy. Smoky and fragrant on the nose. Chocolate covered cherries and purple flowers. Fresh red and black fruits. Very promising.
Red
2005 Domaine de Ferrand Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Tank sample; to be bottled next week. 15,000 bottles to be produced. Great aromatics of pure, rich Grenache fruit. Dark fruit and garrigue. Focused, expressive, and concentrated. Outstanding.
Flight 3 - Lunch @ Verger des Papes (2 notes)
Verger des Papes is a terrific lunch spot. The restaurant is just a few steps from the castle ruins (the Pope’s weekend getaway) in the heart of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. On a clear day, you can sit outside on the patio and enjoy a panoramic view of the Rhone valley to the west and south. The food is traditional Provencal fare with a light and creative twist. The restaurant has an adjacent wine shop, and their selection of recent-vintage Chateauneuf-du-Pape is superb. This was one of my favorite spots last year, and I thought it was even better this year.
Flight 4 - Domaine de la Vielle Julienne (4 notes)
We met with Andreas Becker for a tasting through Vielle Julienne’s 2005s. The domaine is celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2005, and is producing a one-time Cotes-du-Rhone cuvee called “La Bousse” for 120 Euros (!). As was the case last year, I was very impressed with the portfolio of wines.
Red
2005 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Côtes du Rhône La Bosse
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
A super-cuvee to celebrate the domaine’s 100-year anniversary; 95% Grenache, 5% Syrah. 120 Euro at the domaine. 50 cases produced. No new oak. Bitter chocolate, smoke, cigar ash, and coffee. Very tannic and structured. Andreas believes this resembles Vielle Julienne’s 2003 CDP Reserve. Fantastic.
Red
2005 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Plums, smoke, violets, and cigar ash on the nose. On the palate, this shows complex layers of crushed blackberries, tobacco, and black pepper. Good acidity and freshness. Slightly drying finish.
Red
2005 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
200 cases produced. Higher-toned aromatics than the 2005 CDP. Espresso, concentrated blackberry liquor, licorice, tar, and earth. Picked up an intense dark chocolate flavor after a few minutes. Complex. Fiercely tannic and inky. Slightly drying finish. Excellent.
Flight 5 - Domaine Grand Veneur (9 notes)
Christophe Jaume tasted us through Grand Veneur’s 2006s and 2005s. I had not visited this domaine before. They have a large lineup of wines, some of which were very impressive.
Red
2005 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Bottled last month; 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah. Nice cherry/kirsch nose. Concentrated red fruit and baking spices. Fleshy and soft in the mouth. Approachable. Tastes like a good 2004, given its red fruit profile.
Flight 6 - Drinks & Dinner @ Le Mas de Gres, Lagnes (5 notes)
A great restaurant attached to a country inn in Lagnes. The chef prepares one menu, based on whatever is fresh in the market that morning. Tonight it was Provencal ravioli in a butter sauce, roasted “Lap” (a Mediterranean white fish) with fresh peas, potatoes, tomatoes, and balsamic vinegar, three kinds of chevre, and an amazing “Moilleux” liquid chocolate cake with a vanilla sauce.
White
1994 Château-Grillet (Neyret-Gachet) Château-Grillet
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Château-Grillet
My first experience with this rare, monopole, AOC that is enclosed within Condrieu. The best way I can describe this wine is to call it a dry Yquem. It looks and tastes just like a Yquem, but without the residual sugar. Thick, honeyed, and floral. Oranges and bananas. Amazing minerality. Fascinating and fantastic.
White
2002 Jeanjean Vin de Pays d'Oc L'Incompris
France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d'Oc
A bonus bottle from the chef. From Languedoc-Rousillon. Sweet white honey. Minerally and fresh. A perfect pairing with our melted chocolate dessert.
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