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Dinner at Table, Donkey and Stick

Chicago, IL

Tasted August 1, 2017 by acyso with 286 views

Introduction

Lawrence was back in town, so we did again what we did last year.

Flight 1 (7 notes)

White - Sparkling
1998 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Cuvée Creation France, Champagne
95 points
Everything about this wine, from the packaging to the finish, is gorgeous. There was a bit of bread and a decent share of oak on the nose, as well as a generous helping of sweet orchard fruit. The palate has ample fruit as well, as well as a slight touch of nuttiness (though the hazelnut/almond tones definitely increased with more air). Not heavy, despite the oak and oxidative treatment, but everything is in perfect balance. This is an intense and potent champagne, still on the upswing, but I am more than pleased to have caught this where it is tonight.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2011 Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Tête du Clos France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
90 points
There's a fair bit of reduction on this wine, showing up as the classic flinty smell, as well as a little bit of popcorn hull. The palate is much denser and more serious than the 2011 Corbins I had last year (that wine was a bit emaciated), and given the heightened acidity here, the fleshier body certainly helps a bit. I'm not sure I would have called this a Chassagne if served blind -- the style feels a lot more Meursault to me. This is delicious now, but I always wonder what wines made in this style will be like in 10, 15 years.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2013 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc Clos des Carmes Brézé France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur
93 points
This is probably the best Guiberteau wine I've had (the 2008 notwithstanding). There's something that is very chenin about this wine, even though this isn't woolly at all. There's a very crisp, yellow-fruited minerality here that is very convincing. This is a fairly larger-scaled iteration of Saumur blanc as well, which goes well with the high amount of acid.
Red
1996 Thomas Pinot Noir Willamette Valley USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
95 points
Goodness. This is incredible pinot noir. The nose has a light touch of red fruit, in very good balance with some Vosne-like (I know, I know) five-spice powder. There's earthiness here, but none of the mulchy, rotten, or mushroomy aromas you might find in some dirtier Burgundies. This is clean as a whistle (which, in all honest, I quite like). The palate is very similar to the nose, if a little less complex and full. There's lovely sweet fruit here, as well as very well-balanced acids.
Red
1985 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
93 points
This is a very surprising bottle of wine, in that it is far more dense and powerful than what I would expect from such a lowly appellation, although granted, this is probably some of the best dirt in Crozes. The nose is incredibly meaty, along with a little bit of black fruit. The palate still shows amazingly fresh fruit, as well as a slight bit of potency that I've found in those old sketchy doctored Burgundies. An incredibly powerful wine; they definitely knew what they were doing at the estate in 1985.
Red
1990 Giacomo Brezza e Figli Barolo Cannubi Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
#3932. An elegant nebbiolo which is carrying its age with undeniable grace. The nose shows a slight touch of savoury character, with a light touch of licorice root, as well as intense red fruit and beautiful floral aromas. The palate is gentle, even though the tannins still poke out a little bit on the back end. There's a lovely sweet red fruit note that balances out the acidity here very well. The light touch of earthiness here is subtle and fits very well with the narrative.
Red
2008 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo Ravera Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
What an amazing young Barolo. This is light, elegant, and floral, with a beautiful red-fruited lift that just stops you in your tracks. To be sure, this is very young right now, but there's nothing here that would make it unapproachable. This is still so jam-packed with primary fruit that it still obscures the tannins, and while the fruit lends a bit of tartness, this is never shrill. Not much earth or dirt to speak of right now; almost ten years in, this is still very primary. Of course we want to see where this goes with age, but this is already very much enjoyable now.
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