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Chardonnays and Pinots of North London
Must & Lees
Tasted March 24, 2022 by NickA with 187 views
Introduction
15 members from The Wine Society and a lot of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Flight 1 - Distinctive aperitif (1 note)
White
2020 Domaine Girard Chardonnay Limoux las salvios
90 points
Toasty, with the new oak still noticeable, but in an attractive fashion. Quite exotic and opulent on the nose, more like an Alsatian wine than a Burgundian one. Bright acidity, phenolic grip, reasonable length. Others found this simple, and that might be accurate, but it was pretty tasty.
Flight 2 - Reductive Kiwis (2 notes)
White
2018 Greywacke Chardonnay
86 points
Tremendously reductive - the full sulphury struck match shebang. Pretty closed on the palate too, with some tangy lime-accented fruit discernible behind the reduction. Lots there - perhaps slightly too much?
White
2014 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard
90 points
Three years ago I noted that this wine was too tropical in feel, and now my impression was that it was rather too lean! Very linear despite the dominant notes being icing sugar and cream as well as citrus. Classy stuff, but too severe for me to enjoy it particularly.
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Comments (1)
Flight 3 - Seductive Americans (2 notes)
White
2019 Cristom Chardonnay Estate
92 points
A little bit oaked, but all in balance. Charming, comforting, mealy style, with some candied fruit and a chewiness from dry extract. Distinctive and (to me) very appealing, but almost too easygoing and unthreatening.
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Comment
White
2018 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Los Alamos Vineyard
92 points
Rich, energetic, creamy with some quince. A real crowd-pleaser, with just a touch of sweetness. Group #3 of the whites tonight.
Flight 4 - Stately Burgundians (2 notes)
White
2008 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
94 points
I loved this. Discreet and distinguished, although not the most energetic - a Rolls Royce Silver Cloud of a wine, perhaps. Lots of honeycomb, seasoned with the twang of lime. Superb persistent finish. A real beauty. Group #2 white tonight.
White
2015 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
94 points
Harmonious, richly fruited (typical of both the vintage and the producer) with both lime zest and something exotic. Broad and mealy, then a spicy finish. Pretty much everyone loved this wonderfully balanced, compelling wine - group white WOTN.
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Comment
Flight 5 - Contrasting reds (2 notes)
Red
2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Santenay Vieilles Vignes Ceps Centenaires
93 points
Pale in colour, seemingly from the winemaking rather than age. Very savoury and elegant, strawberry and plum fruit, attractively integrated and long. On the rich side for a 2010, which is a vintage I love, and this did not disappoint.
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Comment
Red
2018 Mac Forbes Pinot Noir
84 points
Incredibly pale, almost like a rose. Smelled a bit like a soiled milky nappy. Some tangy strawberry fruit, but very ungenerous, with a bitter finish. Not sure what went wrong here.
Flight 6 - Mature surprises (2 notes)
Red
2011 The Wine Society Pinot Noir The Society's Exhibition Martinborough
91 points
Made by Craggy Range, apparently. Not showing all of its age. Candied, zingy, spicy, creamy red fruit - full of zest and character.
Red
2008 Domaine Borgeot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Boudriotte Rouge
92 points
Nicely mature. Gamey nose, dark fruit, good length. At times the flavours reminded me of a Bloody Mary. Charming and in the peak zone for drinking.
Flight 7 - Slight disappointments (2 notes)
Red
2018 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Isabelle
89 points
Has some posh oak that smells like a certain type of Burgundy, but unfortunately that rather marred the palate (it will presumably integrate with time). Neatly made, quite rich, a little too much vanilla for me.
Red
2015 Mark Haisma Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Arvelets
90 points
Stemmy, greenish, resiny nose. Spicy and bitter on the palate, with a touch of tannin yet to resolve. I did like this wine, but a bit unevolved and straightforward compared to some of the other reds tonight.
Flight 8 - Favourite village (2 notes)
Red
2014 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée
93 points
Sweet strawberry, elegant, refreshing. Really charming. Hadn't really changed much since I first tried it in 2020.
Red
2015 Domaine A.-F. Gros Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas
94 points
Really lively on the nose, then softer on the palate - delightfully silky, in fact. Mature, spicy, refreshing, with oodles of cherry flavour. Felt quite advanced for a 2015, but in a good way. Exciting wine that was the group's red WOTN.
Flight 9 - Somewhat outshone (2 notes)
Red
2010 Domaine Bruno Clair Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode
91 points
A touch sweet. Very soft in feel, but some grip asserts itself towards the finish. Ready, tasty, fine Burgundy but not hugely exciting.
Red
2011 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir
91 points
Spicy, with forest fruits. Soft and enjoyable. Didn't seem to have changed much from the time I had it in 2019 - plenty of time in hand.
Flight 10 - Crescendo (2 notes)
Red
2007 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis
94 points
Lots of complexity here, and deliciousness too: liquorice, smoke, juicy dark fruit and a creaminess. Really well integrated and drinking fantastically. Sensational stuff, and group red #2 of the evening.
Red
2009 Henri Boillot Clos Vougeot
92 points
I'm a fan of Boillot's reds, and this was good, but ultimately outshone by the village wine had alongside it. Maybe it just needs a little more time. Grown up in feel, rich on the nose, then greener and more savoury. Still some tannin evident. Long finish. Yum.
Flight 11 - Encore (1 note)
Red
1980 Maison Albert Bichot Vosne-Romanée Domaine du Clos Frantin
91 points
Surprisingly youthful on the nose, certainly mature on the palate: smoky and spicy, truffle, a touch pinched to give away what this wine is (a 42yo village!). My oldest Burgundy though, and exciting to try.
Closing
Remarkably high standard of wine tonight. I really didn't like a couple of wines, but the average score was high, with some very exciting highlights. Yum...