Madeira @ Plumpjack's

San Francisco

Tasted April 3, 2008 by mdefreitas with 378 views

Introduction

Roy, Mannie, etc.

Flight 1 - FLIGHT 1: Sercial and Terrantez (4 notes)

White - Fortified
1916 Rutherford & Miles Madeira Sercial Portugal, Madeira
93 points
In bottle for about 40 years. Translucent amber-orange in color with a green tinge on the rim. A fine sediment in the glass. Big nose of citrus and lemons. You can almost taste the acids on the nose. Some very light flavors of burnt sugar. Super, grippy acids. Long on the finish. Tangy, light, elegant, yet powerful. Palate coating. A bit of heat on the finish. The acids might be too intense for some, but I loved it.
White - Fortified
1898 Barbeito Madeira Sercial Portugal, Madeira
91 points
Slightly darker than the 1916 Rutherfod and Miles Sercial. Amber, with a greenish rim. A bit denser than the previous wine, but softer and less grip. If I rest and come back t this wine, I can definitely sense the fine acids, but compared to the Rutherford and Miles, this is soft. Some brothy and smokey tea flavors. This has been in wood, demijohn and then bottled for about 6 years.
White - Fortified
1899 Blandy's Madeira Terrantez Portugal, Madeira
91 points
Dark caramel color, with a green rim. A bit of bottle stink when first opened, but this blew off with several days in the decanter. Chocolate and praline on the nose; some nice old decaying wood scents. Not as sweet as the 1899 Welsh Brothers Terrantez I tried last year (supposedly all these 1899 Terrantez wines come from the same source). While the Welsh Brothers seemed almost Malmsey-like, this was more Terrantez-like, although still a bit softer than I would expect. Some spice and ginger notes. Quite good.
White - Fortified
1880 D'Oliveiras Madeira Terrantez Reserva Portugal, Madeira
95 points
Cloudy, orange-caramel in color, with not much green on the rim. Completely assaults the nose and palate. Great Terrantez bitter nutskin flavors. Seems to be packed with a good deal of dry extract as the wine is quite full. Explosive entry. Superb power with a long, zesty, lime and nutskin finish. Fabulous and memorable.

Flight 2 - FLIGHT 2: Verdelho (4 notes)

White - Fortified
1905 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho Reserva Portugal, Madeira
92 points
Very dark in color; almost like cola. Dark brown/orange rim. Lots of caramel and brown spices. Nice balance with just a hint of VA. Good nuttiness and full of youth and vigor, but lacks the WOW factor for me. Others loved it more than me.
White - Fortified
1850 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho Reserva Portugal, Madeira
96 points
Much better than the last time I tried this. Another dark, cola-colored wine. Kalediscopic and intense, almost painful in intensity, which I prize in Madeira. Super long, luscious and extracted, with a fudgy and dried fruit core. Super acids.
White - Fortified
1822 Averys Madeira Verdelho Portugal, Madeira
87 points
This was opened several days before the tasting; decanted and filtered multiple times. Cloudy/muddy in appearance with a tan/orange hue. Lots of bottle stink. Probably in bottle for about 40 years. Very reduced, with a rotten egg scent. Much better on the palate. The acids are sound and the finish admirably long. A bit of "bottle sweetness" emerged and this did get better with air, but for me, it was tough to get over the bottle stink/sweat socks aromas.
White - Fortified
1836 Harveys Madeira R.S. Solera Portugal, Madeira
90 points
Light amber in color. Closed nose, light, elegant wine. Verdelho-like. Some nice cinnamin and clove spices emerge. Very nice, but lacks intensity.

Flight 3 - FLIGHT 3: Boal (5 notes)

White - Fortified
1912 Barbeito Madeira Boal Quinta de São João Portugal, Madeira
93 points
Medium caramel colored. Some VA. Complex, nice bitterness, some brown butter. Really fans out on the finish. Tangy, savory and spicy. Lingering and gorgeous, with an exotic wintergreen note.
White - Fortified
1908 D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal Reserva Portugal, Madeira
94 points
Another dark, cola-colered wine with an orange rim. Very powerful and forceful. Rich and sweet, but the acidity is fine. A soul-warming wine.
White - Fortified
1863 Barbeito Madeira Boal Portugal, Madeira
95 points
Some VA, but this is exceedingly rich and long. Really clings to the palate. Something about the nervous energy in this wine really captured me. Nice edginess to it. Fantastic length.
White - Fortified
1863 Joao Romao Teixeira Madeira Portugal, Madeira
90 points
A bit reduced, with a good dose of bottle stink. Strong elements of cream-like desserts here: creme brulee, creme caramel, etc. Melted butter and butterscotch. Unusual and unique. A bit lactic. This wine was transferred from cask to demi-johns in 1950 and bottled in 1987.
White - Fortified
1827 Quinta do Serrado Madeira Boal Portugal, Madeira
96 points
It is always a pleasure to taste this wine. While there is some bottle variation with this wine and this was not one of the "best" showings. it was still pretty darn fantastic and one of the wines of the night. This was in cask for 108 years before it was put in demi-johns in 1935. This sample came from a bottle with the "block-like" lettering and was bottled some time before the bottles with the "script-like" lettering, which were bottles in 1989 (and are supposedly better). My notes read "Ridiculous complexity. Ethereal, Weight without weight". Hard to believe this was not a "better" bottling of this wine!

Flight 4 - FLIGHT 4: Malvazia (3 notes)

White - Fortified
1895 D'Oliveiras Madeira Malvazia Reserva Portugal, Madeira
93 points
Dark sweet and luscious. Although a bit soft relative to the other Malvazias in the flight, this still had very sound acidity. Great length. My notes are starting to get a bit shorter as the night wears on.
White - Fortified
1875 Barbeito Madeira Malvazia Portugal, Madeira
94 points
It was nice to revisit this wine, not having had it for some time now. Still a consistant, wonderful wine. Dark cola-colored. Sound acids. Fantastic persistence and intensity. It's hard to belive the D'Oliveira version of the 1875 Malvazia is better. This was bottled in 2000.
White - Fortified
1870 Blandy's Madeira Malmsey Portugal, Madeira
96 points
Medium caramel in color. Sweet and cedary, with interesting spicy notes. The rich sweetness is in perfect balance with the nervous acids here. I really like the energy and savory edge this wine posseses. Killer. A great way to end the night.

Flight 5 - DINNER (1 note)

Salad, parmesean risotto, slow-cooked roast beef, creme brulee

Red
1994 Henschke Shiraz Mount Edelstone Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
90 points
Very good, resolved structure. Elegant and refined, with nice secondary flavors of leather and earth. Still holding on to nice fruit. On the second day I thought I detected a hint of TCA... hard to tell.