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Terroir-istes International - France, Burgundy, Corton White

Rodwell House

Tasted December 7, 2009 by rikipedia with 39 views

Introduction

Blind Tasting - A deep dive into whites from the Grand Cru site of Corton including Corton-Charlemagne across a number of vintages and producers. Wild card from Montrachet...

Flight 1 - A cross section of Corton Charlemagne and Vergennes (5 notes)

White
2005 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
87 points
A powerful nose redolent in nut, aniseed, fennel fronds and fresh rubber.
Full-bodied, this massive wine is almost square-jawed in its approach; the alcohol is quite high and not particularly integrated. The finish, whilst long feels almost tannic and rubs the back palate. Quite challenging and lacks much airs and graces!
White
2005 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
90 points
Very different with more subtle hints of mineral, aniseed and stone fruits. Better knit on the palate, this is still full-bodied and powerful yet feels better weighted and integrated. The texture has some richness, fair acidity to balance, and a long finish. The mineral and fennel give a bit of buoyancy to this robust wine.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2002 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
90 points
Closed initially, the wine starts to rise in the glass with a gentle perfume and some stone fruits. Vibrant acidity on the entry, the wine seems to stretch its arms to show the wonderful depth of flavour and richness with a full body and powerful mid-palate. Excellent ripe fruits, the thread of acid keeps the whole show on the road as the biceps start to ripple. Perhaps a little curmudgeonly?
White
1997 Louis Jadot Corton-Vergennes Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
88 points
A shy nose that reveals little. Some hazelnuts, citrus, mushroom and oak spice. The wine feels a little oxidative and evolved on the entry, yet the finish is super long. Truffle, and marzipan mingle with lemon, and the oak spice feels a little furfurol. Confusing wine, I loved the nose but less so the palate that finished rather swiftly.
White
1987 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
93 points
A ripe, massively broad wine with aromas of vanilla, crushed stone and spice. Complex, long, with plenty of grunt, powerful mineral edge and robust flavours this feels almost over-the-top! Amazing length, this is a super expressive wine!

Flight 2 - Bonneau du Martray mini-vertical (2 notes)

White
2006 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
95 points
Slightly closed at first with aniseed, crushed stone, quarry dust and minerals, even a meaty quality. The entry is precision-tooled with a purity of flavour, elegant yet robust, and athletic with buckets of mineral, crushed stone, and toasty oak that leads to a persistent finish. This is a pure delight with an invigorating acidity that is drinking superbly. Right up my street!
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2005 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
98 points
Fabulous nose with clean, bright fruits showing nuts, minerals and crushed rocks. More lifted and expressive than the 2006. A superb palate entry redolent with citrus blossom and lemon balm; mineral-edged acidity giving a tautness, broad palate structure, and power alongside elegance. There is a richness yet also a saline-quarry dust textural feel against its robust acid profile. The wine is more medium-bodied than full and perhaps more ballerina than athletic. It has a glistening sheen that grabs the attention, incredible concentration and a persistent finish. Outstanding wine!

Flight 3 - 2001 Corton-Charlemagne with a ringer from Montrachet (4 notes)

White
2001 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
82 points
Not in the same league, the nose is stinky with button mushroom, wet earth and evolution. Some pre-mox issues with a fungal and limp finish .
White
2001 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
92 points
The nose has poise and intensity, with aromas of struck match, nut, stone fruits and crushed rocks. A massive wine, muscular and dense to the mid-palate. Plenty of vibrancy, broad, rich and good but not exceptional length.
White
2001 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
94 points
An appealing bouquet of lime cordial, nut, orchard fruits and mineral with quarry dust/crushed rocks. Fabulously complex and subtle power, the wine on entry has mineral-edged strident acidity, broad palate shape and elements of chipped rocks, lemon, Granny Smith apples and Asian pear. The wine is less robust and more subtle and elegant with a medium to lighter styling than the other 3 vintages. Ironically, 2001 seems fresher, brighter and more youthful than the 3 younger vintages. There is purity and precision yet richness that makes the wine less saline and edgy despite its freshness. There is still some muscle and a wonderfully long length. Fabulous.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2001 Louis Jadot Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
flawed
Sherry notes showing oxidation qualities. The entry is powerful and austere on the palate and the wine feels rather dull and clumsy. Suffering some Pre-mox which is a pity given its stature!

Closing

The last bottle was refunded as was found to be in poor storage. For another white Burgundy tasting.

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