Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  12/15/2008 (link)

  (PENITENTS Chardonnay) Never Nevers Land Dear Friends, When Alphonse Mellot decided to cross the river to the "Burgundy" side of the Loire, he was crossing a foothold that is heretic to the Sancerre faithful - across the Loire is another land, distant from the Sauvignon Blanc that is comforting to those on the left bank - on the right bank it is Chardonnay. ...but this isn't ordinary Chardonnay, this is the nearly unknown and fascinating Coteaux Charitois and its relation is much closer to Sancerre than one may imagine. What if you could vinify white Burgundy with the soul of a Monts Damnes-- in other words, the mid-palate sap of Burgundy but the cut, verve and nervosity of Sancerre? The result is something that is going to break down a number of barriers in this region as it's almost the Chunnel of wines - it bridges a previously taboo gap between two wine regions that are miles apart in philosophy and leaning but actually very close as far as the crow flies - the Cote d'Or and Sancerre. The Coteaux Charitois is across the Loire River from Sancerre but, If you continue down the road toward Switzerland, eventually you will come upon Beaune. A myriad of beautiful hills, forests and wild animals separate the regions but it's clear that once you cross the river, you leave the Loire mentality behind and gain a foothold into Burgundy. This is the land of Nevers oak and of some of the finest coopers in the world ply their trade here - it was one of them that led Mellot to this enchanted spot where you almost expect to see hobbits dotting about. Many of the Burgundians swear by the grain from the forests of this area but Alphonse Mellot came for the soil and its unspoiled, full minerality - it was here, in the Charitois, that a Medieval vineyard was discovered with endless potential that has now been harnessed by a Sancerre native. While Mellot's inspiration was clearly Burgundy, it was actually the hillside above the town of Chablis, not Beaune (Preuses to be exact) - that being said, he'll be quite happy to challenge the Cote d'Beaune as well - he is a confident man and his new label "Les Penitents" answers a number of questions regarding the Charitois and its ability to produce world-class wine. I think you can expect a slew of new wineries in this area. In some ways, Alphonse Mellot is the Elizabetta Geppetti (Le Pupille) of the Charitois - a serious producer has to lead the way and once they do, the floodgates open. Has Mellot started the French version of the rush to the Maremma? Oh yes, he also makes a Pinot Noir from the same Charitois terroir with its heart firmly planted in a cross-section of the Corton hill and Nuits St. George. I have a feeling more than a few of you will be interested in this. The wine of Les Penitents has become a very hot item in Europe and it's quite difficult to source in the US - we have one very small parcel so I'm putting it out on a Monday night. For more information on this emerging winery (although still under construction), see: http://www.les-penitents.com/an/terroir.php VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for pioneering spirit in a region that is going to be noticed in a hurry: 2006 Les Penitents "Chardonnay" (Alphonse Mellot) Preuses meets En Remilly meets Monts Damnes vinified in the Charitois. A wine that should be tasted as a reference for a new terroir. That's all I will say except this is a tad "underpriced" for the quality. EXTREMELY LIMITED 2006 Les Penitents "Pinot Noir" (Alphonse Mellot) A simply beautiful bottle of rocky, mineral soaked Pinot Noir that leaves the shrill aspect of red Sancerre far behind in favor of a much broader rainbow of light cast squarely on a synthesis of Renardes and Les Pruliers. This wine has an elegant structure and an exciting sense of terroir that is varietal and of its place - I consumed both of my sample bottles within a week and did not feel the least bit guilty. Jancis Robinson recently waxed poetic on this wine for good reason. EXTREMELY LIMITED. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg6930 Burg6940