wrote:

89 Points

Monday, January 31, 2022 - Faded and thin immediately after opening, with a slightly unpleasant earthiness, in the course of the next hour and a half in the glass the wine gradually fills out with cherries, smoke, coffee, mint, fennel, and licorice (and the earthiness goes away). This is a wine that was crafted to be at its peak on release, so it's really quite impressive that it's still enjoyable after all these years, at least as a casual everyday wine. But still, there is no way to avoid noticing that this is very much a wine in decline. If you have this in your cellar, the sooner you finish it the better. [I have now tasted a total of four bottles of this wine. Of the four, three were as described above. One, however, with identical history, seemed distinctly older and less enjoyable, with a faintly oxidized (prune-like) quality--difference in the corks?]

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