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94 Points

Tuesday, August 29, 2023 - Although the label doesn't say anything about Reserva, this is technically the same thing as Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva. It just wasn't labeled as such back then. 12% alcohol.

Evolved, medium-deep brick-red color with a slightly brownish-maroon hue. The nose feels noticeably rustic and funky with rather brett-driven aromas of lambic-like phenolic spice, some sweaty saddle leather tones, a little bit of wizened red fruit, light earthy notes, a hint of wizened figs and a touch of barnyard. Very old-school Rioja nose here. The wine feels evolved and somewhat rustic on the palate yet wonderfully silky in texture. The overall feel is medium-bodied and balanced with flavors of bretty saddle leather and phenolic spice, some sweet notes of wizened figs, a little bit of hay, light pruney notes of dried red plums, a hint of earth and a touch of farmhouse funk. As the ripe and fully resolved tannins don't really retain any grip and only contribute to the silky texture of the wine, the structure relies mostly on the bright, high acidity. The finish is long, evolved and complex with a dry, layered aftertaste of dried figs, some bretty notes of saddle leather and stable floor, light pruney notes of wizened red plums, a little bit of earth, a hint of raisiny dark fruit and a touch of sweet exotic spices.

A terrific, nuanced and wonderfully evolved old Tondonia Reserva. For some reason most people thought this was over the peak, but I think they confused the surprisingly pronounced bretty notes with oxidative aromas - having tasted a good number of too old Tondonias that have been way over the hill, this was anything but! Apart from the rather pronounced bretty notes which were heavily in the leather-and-barnyard spectrum, the wine retained a great deal of vibrant, somewhat sweet-toned fruit that married with those rustic, funky notes of brett remarkably well. I guess this wine might've been too funky for people who want their wines squeaky clean, but I loved this wine big time! Most likely this wine won't go anywhere from here but down, so there is no need to age it any further - but I doubt this wine is going to fall apart anytime soon, either. If it has kept this well until now, it won't turn bad in just few years. However, I still encourage to pop any remaining bottles sooner rather than later.

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