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95 Points

Sunday, November 29, 2020 - From the recent large private purchase purchase (hard to value individual bottles, but about $85). Small taste, then about 90 minutes of air, with relatively consistent tasting notes thereafter. On the nose and palate, black and red raspberries (with other berries and cherries coming in later), olives, earth, garrigue, funk, smoked meats, tar, tobacco, figs and a hard to describe note I'm calling as wet dog. Medium garnet, medium to full-bodied, medium to thick legs. Racy acidity, medium+ tannins, no heat. Great complexity, persistence and intensity. There's no such thing as a boring Pegau, but compared to the '09, which I'm most familiar with, this is less feral, for better or worse, gentler (dare I say, more feminine?), more subtle (only 13.5% abv), almost Burgundian and lighter. Fully intact acidity gives this a raciness and food-friendliness which belies its years and makes it seem a lot more contemporary than many things which post-dated it, like Y2K hysteria and internet pet food company sock puppets. Great drinking window which will go on for only God knows how long. I'll tell you what, if the Tuscan winemakers don't watch their p's and q's, these CdPs may replace the BdMs as the primary object of my Euro affections, but that's a good problem, right? Nosed out by the recent '01 Clos Des Papes which had incrementally greater sophistication, but still pretty great. 95-96

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